MK2S extruder on a MK2

If I print out the MK2S extruder body, cover, and idler will it mount to my MK2 using the existing nuts, screws, and X-axis carriage?

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Hi Richard,

I suggest you print x-axis carriage as well, there is a new attachment system for extruder's cables. It will significantly reduce bending of cables and increase overall endurance. However, you will also need a pair of printed cable holders, ideally from PETG (part of our MK2S upgrade kit).

See Chapter 5 Step 24 and Chapter 5 Step 31

In general, you can use the majority of the screws and nuts from MK2 to MK2S, but there are some extra needed, like M3x40 for this cable holder or M3nS for P.I.N.D.A. sensor.

To answer your question, it will fit, but I recommend to change the X-carriage as well.

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agree, you have all the needed parts - the extra parts (2 bolts and 2 nuts) needed are in your original 'extra parts package' I printed all the parts in PETG and they worked fine except the hex nuts did not stay in place and need a little adhesive (I used caulking compound) to hold their position until the bolt could 'grab' the nut. This was unlike the original parts which had a very tight fit for the nuts. Note that the PINDA no longer uses bolts on the treads - the bolts must be removed!

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I just wanted to replace the portion of the extruder that holds the PINDA and only printed that part. I did notice the nuts loose but the issue I have is that the new part will not clamp PINDA tight once the screws are fully tightened. Did my part expand too much? I printed in ABS.

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Hi Jeff, did you print in a room with stable temperature? ABS is very sensitive to temp changes and it can warp. For the best print quality, please slice this printed part in latest Slic3r PE or PrusaControl (using our profiles) and ensure stable temperature around the printer.

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Hi Jeff, the parts I printed in PETG had no problem with the PINDA being loose, in fact it was a rater snug fit even before using the bolts.

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The printer is in a box so the temp should have been fairly stable. I did order the upgrade kit so I will try again with the Prusa ABS once it arrives. I used Hatchbox ABS with some different settings to get that material to work. Once I get the kit I will try running the g-codes directly without using Slic3r. Slic3r is what I normally use.

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