3D printed parts Necessary fasteners Milled aluminium Y-carriage
  • 3D printed parts

  • Necessary fasteners

  • Milled aluminium Y-carriage

  • Smooth and threaded rods (Smooth rods are the medium length ones from package [if you have only 2 lengths, use shorter ones])

  • Felt spacers

  • Y-axis endstop (use one of the endstops with longer cables).

  • Y-axis motor (longer one)

Add Comment

13/17mm spanners
  • 13/17mm spanners

  • 3.6mm flathead screwdriver

  • Needle-nose pliers

  • 2.5 and 1.5mm hex spanner

Add Comment

Y-axis-corners
  • Y-axis-corners

  • Y-belt-holder

  • Y-motor-holder

  • Y-idler

Add Comment

Use M10n nuts, M10w washers and M10 threaded rods
  • Use M10n nuts, M10w washers and M10 threaded rods

  • Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-corners on the threaded rod as shown in the picture

  • Ensure a 80mm distance between nuts

  • The 2 nuts after 80mm gap have to be tightened against each other (counter-nut)

There is plenty of time ensuring 75 or 80 mm distance between nuts at a later stage.

xpandedreality - Reply

is it 75? or 80?

Lucian Capeleanu - Reply

Repeat Step 4 to get a second complete Y-axis rod.
  • Repeat Step 4 to get a second complete Y-axis rod.

Add Comment

Use M8n nuts, M8w washers and M8 threaded rods
  • Use M8n nuts, M8w washers and M8 threaded rods

  • Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-idler on threaded rod as shown in the picture

  • Y-idler should be somewhere in the middle of the threaded rod. The precise position doesn't matter at this time

Add Comment

Use M8n nuts, M8w washers and M8 threaded rods Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-motor-holder on threaded rod as shown in the picture
  • Use M8n nuts, M8w washers and M8 threaded rods

  • Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-motor-holder on threaded rod as shown in the picture

  • Y-motor-mount should be somewhere in the middle of the threaded rod. The precise position doesn't matter at this time

  • Ensure the correct orientation of Y-motor-holder

Step 7 text, 2nd line: replace "Y-idler" with "Y-motor holder"

Philip Hopely - Reply

Use M8n nuts and M8w washers Y-axis stage front
  • Use M8n nuts and M8w washers

  • Y-axis stage front

  • Insert Y-axis stage front and back in to Y-axis side elements and lock it with washers and nuts like in the picture

  • Ensure the correct placement. Y-axis rear stage has to be closer to double-nut!

  • It is incredibly important that the axis is perfectly rectangular at this stage of construction, all rods need to be perfectly straight and level. If not, you'll have trouble calibrating later on!

At this stage I did meassure the distance between each corner to ensure that both short endsand both longer ends where somewhat equal. Exact adjustment is done later with the help of smoth rods and the frame.

xpandedreality - Reply

Prusa i3 frame
  • Prusa i3 frame

  • Y-axis stage

Add Comment

Insert the Y-axis stage into the frame as close to Y-corners as possible Adjust and tighten the M8n nuts Rotate the Y-axis stage and repeat
  • Insert the Y-axis stage into the frame as close to Y-corners as possible

  • Adjust and tighten the M8n nuts

  • Rotate the Y-axis stage and repeat

  • After adjusting, the Y-axis stage should cause minimum movement while inserted into the frame

  • Tighten the M8n nuts gently or you'll risk damaging the 3D printed parts

By "minimal movement", 1) is the stage supposed to be held tight against the frame so that it doesn't move, or 2) so that when you insert the stage there is minimal contact with the sides of the frame?

Mike Curtis - Reply

Insert the 8mm smooth rod into the Y-axis stage. Adjust and tighten the M10n nuts After tightening the nuts, there shouldn't be any gap between 8mm rods and Y-axis corners
  • Insert the 8mm smooth rod into the Y-axis stage.

  • Adjust and tighten the M10n nuts

  • After tightening the nuts, there shouldn't be any gap between 8mm rods and Y-axis corners

  • Retain the 80mm gap between counter-nut and nut

  • Remove the 8mm rods

Add Comment

Y-carriage
  • Y-carriage

  • 2.5x100mm ziptie

  • LM8-UU linear bearing

  • 8mm smooth rod

Add Comment

Insert zipties into the Y-carriage as shown on picture Place the linear bearings in cutouts
  • Insert zipties into the Y-carriage as shown on picture

  • Place the linear bearings in cutouts

Add Comment

Use pliers to tighten the zipties Ensure the correct position of ziptie connections as shown in the pictures, Otherwise your Y-axis will not move properly
  • Use pliers to tighten the zipties

  • Ensure the correct position of ziptie connections as shown in the pictures, Otherwise your Y-axis will not move properly

Add Comment

Cut the excess ziptie with pliers
  • Cut the excess ziptie with pliers

Add Comment

Place Y-belt holder on the Y-carriage as shown on picture
  • Place Y-belt holder on the Y-carriage as shown on picture

  • Be aware of the orientation of Y-belt holder (belt entry should face towards single bearing)

Add Comment

Using M3x10 screws, M3w washers and 2.5mm hex spanner screw the Y-belt holder to Y-carriage
  • Using M3x10 screws, M3w washers and 2.5mm hex spanner screw the Y-belt holder to Y-carriage

  • Tighten the screws gently to prevent damage to the 3D printed part

My screws are the right length but don't screw in and the piece looks different

Liam Dunagan - Reply

what was the resolution Liam?

Malcolm Rodger - Reply

they need to update this picture. i got the new slightly modded part. I didnt use any washer to secure the belt holder in place.

Parker - Reply

My hex bolt does not thread into the Y-carrage. Seems I also have a newer model Y-belt holder? What did you fasten the threads of the hex bolt to Parker?

Frank D -

Nevermind :) The book I have matches the printer received :) So I will continue on that plane

Frank D -

Insert the 8mm smooth rods into the linear bearings on Y-carriage
  • Insert the 8mm smooth rods into the linear bearings on Y-carriage

  • Be very careful! Insert the rod straight into the bearings, do not apply too much force and do not tilt the rod!

Add Comment

Insert the assembled Y-carriage into the Y-axis stage
  • Insert the assembled Y-carriage into the Y-axis stage

  • Ensure the correct orientation of parts (Y-motor mount on the left and the single bearing on the bottom)

Add Comment

Insert zipties into holes in Y-corners
  • Insert zipties into holes in Y-corners

  • Ensure the correct orientation of zipties (head of the ziptie should facing out from the Y-axis stage)

Add Comment

Using pliers, tighten the zipties as shown on picture
  • Using pliers, tighten the zipties as shown on picture

  • Ensure the correct orientation of zipties connection

Add Comment

M3x25 screw
  • M3x25 screw

  • M3w washer

  • 623h bearing housing

  • M3nN nylock nut

Add Comment

To tighten the Y-idler, use the pliers and 2.5mm hex spanner
  • To tighten the Y-idler, use the pliers and 2.5mm hex spanner

  • Tighten the screw gently, just half turn max after the washers touch the 3D printed part.

Add Comment

Y-axis motor
  • Y-axis motor

  • M3x10 screw

  • Ensure the correct orientation of motor (cables should face between M8 threaded rods)

Add Comment

Using the 2.5mm hex spanner, secure the motor to 3D printed part
  • Using the 2.5mm hex spanner, secure the motor to 3D printed part

  • Tighten the motor gently to avoid damage to 3D printed part

Add Comment

Make sure that there is a small gap between motor and Y-carriage
  • Make sure that there is a small gap between motor and Y-carriage

  • If the gap is not even, adjust the bottom nuts

Check if the Y-motor-holder is placed sufficiently to the left. If it is placed too much in the middle then the Y-belt-holder (see step 16) wil bump against the motor when the Y-carriage is moved to the end.

Gerrit Geens - Reply

Insert the ziptie in the Y-endstop as shown in picture
  • Insert the ziptie in the Y-endstop as shown in picture

  • Use one of the two endstops having the long cables

Zip was restrictively snug so I dragged a razor along its sides to thin it out. Hold the blade perpendicular to tie and avoid cutting into it, just give it a nice shave.

Jetsun - Reply

Place the Y-endstop on the Y-axis stage as shown on picture
  • Place the Y-endstop on the Y-axis stage as shown on picture

  • Ensure the correct placement. (Shaft of Y-motor should face directly on the Y-endstop)

Not until Step 31 do you actually see what orientation the endstop is supposed to be. I was confused as to why the platform was hitting the stop for a little while before realizing that it was meant to be rotated flat, on top of the smooth rod.

Anthony Weber - Reply

Using pliers tighten the ziptie on the endstop as much as you can
  • Using pliers tighten the ziptie on the endstop as much as you can

  • Cut off excess ziptie and discard

Add Comment

Roll the Y-carriage until it hits the endstop Check the gap on the dual bearing side of Y-carriage between bearing and Y-corner (should be around 2-5mm)
  • Roll the Y-carriage until it hits the endstop

  • Check the gap on the dual bearing side of Y-carriage between bearing and Y-corner (should be around 2-5mm)

  • If the gap is too large or bearing is hitting the Y-corner, move the endstop to compensate

At this stage I saw that the Y-belt holder was stopping the Y-carriage on the Y-axis motor. I didn't understand why but the understood that i need to shift the motor left

Yehuda - Reply

I encountered the same problem. Therefor I added a comment to step 26 since most people will be adjusting the bolts that hold the Y-motor-holder anyway.

Gerrit Geens -

Ziptie the cables to the threaded rods as shown in picture Cut and discard excess ziptie
  • Ziptie the cables to the threaded rods as shown in picture

  • Cut and discard excess ziptie

  • Tighten the zipties carefully to avoid damaging the wires

  • Be careful while cutting the zipties to avoid cutting the wires

Add Comment

Insert the Y-GT2 belt (shorter one) in the the Y-belt holder as shown in picture Insert the Y-GT2 belt (shorter one) in the the Y-belt holder as shown in picture
  • Insert the Y-GT2 belt (shorter one) in the the Y-belt holder as shown in picture

I had to use a sub mm tool like the one used to measure the gap in a spark plug to really put the belt all the way in, like in the picture. 0.4 mm did the trick.

Lamps - Reply

I used some flat end tweezers to get it in part of the way and then used a credit card (like suggested in step 36) to push the belt in the rest of the way

fl0PPsy - Reply

Adjust the Y-idler as shown in picture (623h bearing housing should be in axis with the belt)
  • Adjust the Y-idler as shown in picture (623h bearing housing should be in axis with the belt)

  • Tighten the M8n nuts gently to avoid damaging the 3D printed part

Add Comment

Place a GT2-16 pulley on the Y-motor shaft as shown in picture
  • Place a GT2-16 pulley on the Y-motor shaft as shown in picture

  • The belt part of the pulley has to be in axis with the belt itself

  • Tighten the screws in the pulley

  • One of the screws has to be tightened directly against the pad on the shaft

Add Comment

Using the pliers, tighten the belt and insert it into the Y-belt holder
  • Using the pliers, tighten the belt and insert it into the Y-belt holder

  • The belt should be quite tight, it should 'ping' like a music string

Add Comment

Using a flathead screwdriver, move the belt to the end of the Y-belt holder cutout
  • Using a flathead screwdriver, move the belt to the end of the Y-belt holder cutout

I used a credit card instead of the screwdriver to push the belt all the way in. It worked like a charm!

xpandedreality - Reply

That is genius. I was using the back of a knife but wish I'd read this comment earlier. Much easier! Cheers.

Benjamin Wells -

Great tip, thanks! :)

Michael -

If remaining part of belt is longer than 10cm, you've got wrong belt, don't cut it and get the correct one!
  • If remaining part of belt is longer than 10cm, you've got wrong belt, don't cut it and get the correct one!

  • If necessary, use pliers to cut the remaining part of the belt

Add Comment

If necessary, grab the end of the belt with pliers, twist it and insert it in the Y-belt holder cutout as shown in the picture If necessary, grab the end of the belt with pliers, twist it and insert it in the Y-belt holder cutout as shown in the picture
  • If necessary, grab the end of the belt with pliers, twist it and insert it in the Y-belt holder cutout as shown in the picture

Add Comment

Place assembled Y-axis on a flat surface
  • Place assembled Y-axis on a flat surface

  • Check if every corner is touching the ground

  • If some corner is in the air, try twist the axis slightly

  • You can also check it by tapping each corner and listen if it's making any noise

  • This is your last chance to ensure the Y-Axis is perfectly angled and level. It'll save you a lot of hassle later!

Add Comment

Stick the felt pad on each Y-corner
  • Stick the felt pad on each Y-corner

I did cut the felt pads to a little smaller size. If you leave felt pads sticking out on either end, they will collect dust and because of that come off easier after a while.

xpandedreality - Reply

Ahh expandedreality, you are full of useful tips. Thanks again.

Benjamin Wells -

Congratulations, you have assembled Y-axis !
  • Congratulations, you have assembled Y-axis !

  • You can continue by assembling X-axis in the next chapter - 3. X axis

Add Comment

Finish Line

51 other people completed this guide.

Dozuki System

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

76 Guides authored

11 Comments

In Step 1, Y-axis endstop, I have 2 long and 1 short wire end stops, do I assume it is the long one as it is mentioned next to the y axis motor

Also, I assume felt spacers are the same as the felt pads...

Ben - Reply

Read through the next steps and saw that the end stops go as follows

two longest wire end stops: X,Y Axis

shortest wire end stop: Z Axis

Ben -

Clarification on which motor to use where was found in forums,

large motor, long cable = Y axis

large motor, short cable = X axis

small motor, long cable = Extruder

small motor, med cable = Z2 (The Z motor which is on the side of frame without electronics)

small motor, short cable =Z1 (The Z motor which is on the side of frame with electronics)

Ben - Reply

note my two large motors had the exact same cable length

Ben -

My two cables were very close to the same length, but not quite. Maybe a centimeter difference. I'm guessing that it actually should not matter.

Anthony Weber -

In Step 13, it mentions M3n nuts, but it appears the Y-carriage is threaded and there are no M3n nuts so assuming typo, another typo

Step 1, green dot: medium lenght should be medium length

Ben - Reply

shoot I think I used the wrong rods, it says

Smooth and threaded rods (Smooth rods are the medium lenght ones from package [if you have only 2 lengths, use shorter ones])

I grabbed the shorter ones not realizing the medium ones were wrapped in something else, not sure if I need to reassemble... 10 mm going to matter... should of read the other guides first before starting would of caught that one I think

Ben - Reply

yeah I better redo it, I think the z-axis could handle the extra 10mm but I would lose 10mm of travel in the y :( on second thought as I was trying to lengthen the y to fit the longer rods I already cut the belt so looks like I am living with the 10mm shorter rod for now....

Ben -

Step 14, not much margin on the location of the ziptie head and the frame, it was not till later that I had to recut and realign ziptie to make it through the channel in the frame, tough to do until assembled, maybe keep it a little loose and adjust in later step

Ben - Reply

The PSU-Y part was not in this instruction but was in the book.

Carl Beck - Reply

The locking nuts were missing in both here and on the book. I noticed it when I was putting the clip Zipties on the cables. The reslt is I now do not have them on my assy.

Carl Beck - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 8

Past 7 Days: 36

Past 30 Days: 189

All Time: 17,428