Needle-nose pliers for zip tie trimming.
  • Needle-nose pliers for zip tie trimming.

  • 2.5mm Allen key for M3 screws

  • 2mm Allen key for nut alignment

  • 1.5mm Allen key for tightening the pulley

Add Comment

For the following steps, please prepare:
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • Extruder-idler (1x)

  • Bondtech pulley WITHOUT the lock screw (1x)

  • Pulley bearing (2x)

  • M3nS nut (2x)

  • Pulley shaft (1x)

For those who have a shocking moment here as it looks like one pulley bearing is missing… have a look inside the bondtech pulleys ;)

Stefan Lutz - Reply

Yuup!!! Same thing in my bag.

Douglas Shelfoon - Reply

Press the nuts to the slots on both sides of the idler. Insert both bearings in the pulley. Be aware that bearings can slip out during assembly.
  • Press the nuts to the slots on both sides of the idler.

  • Insert both bearings in the pulley. Be aware that bearings can slip out during assembly.

  • Layers might be visible in this printed part due to the geometry. The functionality and strength remain unaffected.

There is no printed part here. Perhaps the comment should be on the next picture

Steve Worcester - Reply

Hi Steve, the black idler (first picture) is 3D printed.

Jakub Dolezal -

Ensure both bearings are inside the pulley! Insert the pulley in idler as shown in the picture.
  • Ensure both bearings are inside the pulley!

  • Insert the pulley in idler as shown in the picture.

  • Slide the shaft through the idler and pulley. Use reasonable force or you will BREAK the printed part.

  • Place your finger on the bearing and ensure it can rotate freely.

Any suggestions on how to get the shaft in? It’s impossible with my parts. Might have to try and ream out the hole.

Alex Tramiel - Reply

Since the shaft is 3mm - I´d suggest using a 3mm drill bit and widen up the first hole - by hand preferably.

Richard Rohan -

put the champfer-side into the hole (direction of the orange arrow is good) then take a wood or plastic on your workbench.

hold the printed part vertically and slightly push downwards.

Heiko Schultz -

Hi Alex, did you manage to press the shaft in?

Jakub Dolezal -

For me, the holes in the printed part were too small. I enlarged it with a small round file.

Michal - Reply

The hole can not be too big so that the shaft does not fall out.

Michal - Reply

No way to get this in by hand, but a pair of channel locks worked as sort of arbor press, and popped right in.

Scott - Reply

I drilled mine out and epoxied in the shaft. It was so tight I felt sure I would break the part before getting it in. I would rather have pressed it in, but it was just too tight!

Steven Underwood - Reply

Guys, feedback noted and production team alerted. Thank you :)

Jakub Dolezal - Reply

also, the shaft is about 3.6mm too short. I inserted it (sadly I read about the necessary drilling too late ;(( ) an now it’s flush on one side and still 3.6mm to go on the other side.

Guntor H - Reply

Hi Guntor, can you please share a picture? (http://manual.prusa3d.com/Answers) Thanks

Jakub Dolezal -

I hand-drilled the entry hole to widen it slightly but left the other hole as-is. It seems to have worked well for now.

Brandon Oprendek - Reply

I did the same as Brandon - it worked ok but the system needs improving here

Chris Tipney - Reply

Hi Chris, it is already fixed, but due to the amount of already shipped printers it will take some time. Sorry about that.

Jakub Dolezal -

Shaft is indeed a bit short but I used one of the allen wrenches to just push it in a little further so it has a bit of ‘flesh’ on both sides. Guess shaft could do with an additional 2mm in length (at least).

Jeroen - Reply

Same problems over here: Holes to tight and shaft to short

Another thing:

On the bag is only one part mentioned (1x Bontech). So at first I did not realised that there are two different parts

Gerhard Kunz - Reply

Hi Gerhard, it is written in the first step to use Bondtech pulley without tightening screw.

Jakub Dolezal -

Same as @kunzgbr - I had two similar looking parts in E-Axis bag which was labeled 1xBondtech. I notice now one of them has an allen lock screw, so I used the one without the lock screw for this step. Not sure if the other is needed or not yet.

Graham McIntyre - Reply

Hi Graham, yes for this step use the without the lock screw. It is written in the first step of this chapter.

Jakub Dolezal -

Too short by about the thickness of one of the hangers

Steve Worcester - Reply

Rubber mallet here, went just fine without drilling, but shaft could be 2 or 3 mm longer. I managed to make it equally spaced

Giacomo - Reply

Note: before leaving this step I would recommend you tap on the extruder and verify that the pin does not shift out of place. if the pin walks out, then you will not be able to generate good prints. It may be possible to add just a touch of super glue to the end cap to prevent the pin from walking out. Another option is to use a hot glue gun to secure the part in place. A longer pin would make this part more reliable.

Bradley Moreavek - Reply

Slight touch up with a small, round file…tight friction fit…equally spaced and then a drop of super-glue seems to have worked for me.

Matt Plummer - Reply

I used a big clamp very carefully to get it in, then I took the included screwdriver and drove the pin farther in by smacking the screwdriver with a metal wrench. Worked ok.

Mr Cookie - Reply

For the following steps, please prepare:
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • Extruder-body (1x)

  • Filament sensor (1x)

  • BE CAREFUL with the filament sensor, do not touch the black PCB nor the chips on it.

  • M3x10 screw (1x)

  • M3n nut (2x)

The step 5 / PACKaging is not correctly labled — I have 2 large and a small package. One contains screws, the other the plastic parts, the small package contains the parts from step 2. I’m missing the filament sensor from this step.

PEB - Reply

corection - found it ….it is in the carton package. That should be mentioned in the description

PEB - Reply

Thanks for the suggestion, I'm working on something already ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Before we continue with the assembly, we need to insert nuts in the Extruder-body. Take the extra time and effort to place them in properly. You won't be able to reach them later. Rotate the front part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.
  • Before we continue with the assembly, we need to insert nuts in the Extruder-body. Take the extra time and effort to place them in properly. You won't be able to reach them later.

  • Rotate the front part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.

  • Rotate the rear part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.

  • If you can't push the nuts in, use a longer screw from the other side and tighten it until you "pull" the nut in.

hint how to easily place nuts , just use one of M3 nuts you have from E package, screw nut with 1 turn on M3, place nut in the hole, check it is perpendicular, turn screw 1 turn back so nut is released, piece of cake, in the nut has to be deeper use longer M3 screw, you can use your thumb to press it in space

ufon - Reply

On my Part B3, the hole for the 2nd nut (the blue one) was oversized and the nut spun freely inside the part. I was able to use the flathead screwdriver to hold the nut in place while screwing it doen from the other side. When it was tight to the bottom of the hole the nut gripped the part.

Chris Pardy - Reply

Carefully insert the filament sensor in the slot, do not use force or you might damage the PCB! Carefully insert the filament sensor in the slot, do not use force or you might damage the PCB!
  • Carefully insert the filament sensor in the slot, do not use force or you might damage the PCB!

Add Comment

Turn the extruder-body like in the picture. The pins of the filament sensor must be facing up. Locate the opening for the M3 screw.
  • Turn the extruder-body like in the picture. The pins of the filament sensor must be facing up.

  • Locate the opening for the M3 screw.

  • Take the M3x10 screw and tighten the sensor in place.

  • The sensor must be tightened completely to prevent its movement BUT BE CAREFUL during tightening to avoid damage to the sensor.

  • Layers might be visible in this printed part due to the geometry. The functionality and strength remain unaffected.

Does the head of the screw touch the sensor? I seem to be screwing into plastic and I’m not sure how far to go with it.

Mark Abrams - Reply

Hi Mark, the head of the screw must touch the PCB of the sensor. Be careful during tightening ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

There is an issue. No filet in the pcb and not enough space between the pcb and the plastic part to put a nut. So you must carefully make a hole with a drill (in screw direction) to have enough space to put a nut. But Prusa has to modify the manual and the parts.

Xavier - Reply

There is no nut involved when fixing the sensor, the M3x10 bolt is self-tapping into the plastic.

Robert Hunt -

Hi Xavier, as Robert said, there is no need for a nut, the screw will self-tap into the printed part.

Jakub Dolezal -

I was able to secure it fully by continuing to screw into the plastic until the screw head presses snuggly against the sensor. I think it would be useful to other makers to show the result from the left side (based on the current photos as “front facing”) to show what to look for.

Mark Abrams - Reply

Hi Mark, thanks for the feedback. I will consider extra picture to show properly tightened sensor.

Jakub Dolezal -

Hi. I noticed the senzor itself (sensory part) is looking dirty. Probably I should no attemp to clean… Or?

Juraj Mr. - Reply

For the following steps, please prepare:
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • M3x30 screw (1x)

  • M3 transparent washer (2x)

  • Transparent washers are placed on the idler, due to better visibility for the viewer. No need to place them as in the picture ;)

Picture in Step 9 is a bit confusing, this part is not in the MK3 kit in this form ;-)

Jeroen - Reply

Hi Jeroen, since the washers are transparent, some darker background was needed ;) and you will use the idler in the next step anyway.

Jakub Dolezal -

Turn the Extruder-body like in the picture. The pins must be facing to the right. Insert M3x30 screw in the hole.
  • Turn the Extruder-body like in the picture. The pins must be facing to the right.

  • Insert M3x30 screw in the hole.

  • Place a washer from the other side.

  • Assemble the idler on the M3x30 screw.

  • Finish the assembly with the second washer.

only one washer in picture use. please arrow secound washer on picture

theerachai - Reply

Look at both photos for Step 10. It’s between the extruder body and the idler.

J Allen -

Hi, first washer is marked with green arrow, second washer with orange circle. Please, check the pictures again ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

For the following step, please prepare:
  • For the following step, please prepare:

  • Extruder motor (1x)

  • Bondtech pulley WITH the lock screw (1x)

  • Ensure you are using the correct motor, there is a label on the bottom of the casing. The reason is, each motor has different cable length.

Ah, this is the other Bondtech not noted on the 5.E-Axis bag. This should be noted and also a special note above for the first Bondtech to use the one with no set screw.

Graham McIntyre - Reply

There is a flat part on the motor shaft, rotate it towards you. Slide the pulley on, note the CORRECT orientation.
  • There is a flat part on the motor shaft, rotate it towards you.

  • Slide the pulley on, note the CORRECT orientation.

  • The screw must be facing directly against the pad (flat part) on the shaft. Slightly tighten the screw, the final adjustment will be done later.

  • Don't press the pulley against the motor. Leave it on the very top of the shaft, see the picture.

Add Comment

Find in the package two M3x30 screws and insert them into the holes. Mount the motor on the extruder body as shown in the picture, double check the proper orientation of the motor cables.
  • Find in the package two M3x30 screws and insert them into the holes.

  • Mount the motor on the extruder body as shown in the picture, double check the proper orientation of the motor cables.

  • Tighten both screws firmly.

  • Tighten the screw, but only slightly, keep in mind the idler must rotate freely.

It's easy for the outer nylon washer to fall off when doing the steps between step 10 and here. Maybe put in the other 2 30mm screws first? Or at least note here to make sure the nylon washer is still in place.

Graham McIntyre - Reply

Open idler fully to have direct access to the pulley. Use a piece of 1.75 mm filament (from the spool) to align the pulley with the openings for the filament (see the picture).
  • Open idler fully to have direct access to the pulley.

  • Use a piece of 1.75 mm filament (from the spool) to align the pulley with the openings for the filament (see the picture).

  • Adjust the pulley and tighten it with 1.5mm Allen key. Use reasonable force as you might damage the thread.

  • When ready with the alignment, please remove the filament.

Adjusting the pulley and tighten it with 1.5mm Allen key failed as both Allen keys stripped at very low force. I used my own.

Valentin Bulbuc - Reply

Same here, the included allen wrench is not working. Had to use my own.

Alexander Buschek -

Do we remove the filament peice after? I’m just finding out I need to remove it to insert the e3D hot end later on

Alex Wilkie - Reply

Hi Alex, yes please. Remove the filament when done with the alignment.

Jakub Dolezal -

For the following step, please prepare: M3x40 screw (2x) Extruder spring (2x)
  • For the following step, please prepare:

  • M3x40 screw (2x)

  • Extruder spring (2x)

  • Assemble springs on both screws, see the second picture.

  • Close the idler, so the screws can reach it.

  • Place both screws into the Extruder body and tighten them. The screw's head should be almost aligned with the printed surface.

Are we supposed to close the idler first here?

Neal Tibrewala - Reply

Hi Neal, yes you must close the idler first as the screws must reach nuts inside the idler. Step instructions updated.

Jakub Dolezal -

So what distance should the screws be tightened for optimal grip/release? Almost flush? Is there a more scientific method to this, or does it not matter that much.

Douglas Shelfoon - Reply

Hi Douglas, on MK3 align the screws with the surface of the printed part. We've improved the design this way, so no special measurement is needed.

Jakub Dolezal -

Impossible to tighten even slightly on the part i received, the idler had no thread and the screw/bolts just slip though….

It would be better to use a metal nut here since the printed part was useless

Tom - Reply

Hi Tom, You might have missed step 3 first picture? There should be nuts in the idler.

Orne Brocaar -

Thanks Orne,

Just now saw the 2 holes for the square nuts as you said, so it was my fault being stupid :(

Great news though, I can continue building now :))

Tom -

Take two M3nS nuts from the package and insert them in the slots, all the way in. Check proper alignment with the 1.5mm Allen key.
  • Take two M3nS nuts from the package and insert them in the slots, all the way in.

  • Check proper alignment with the 1.5mm Allen key.

Add Comment

For the following steps, please prepare: Extruder-cover (1x)
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • Extruder-cover (1x)

  • M3nS nut (1x)

  • M3n nut (1x)

  • M3x25 screw (2x)

  • Insert both nuts in the printed part.

  • In case you can't press the M3n nut in, don't use excessive force. Take M3 screw thread it from the opposite side of the printed part, as you tighten the screw, it will pull the nut in. Be careful not to break the printed part during tightening.

In case you can't press the M3n nut in, don't USE excessive force.

Keith Manley - Reply

Thank you Keith, corrected.

Jakub Dolezal -

I cannot manage to fit this in whatsoever. The screw trick does not seem to be working whatsoever in getting the m3n nut in. Is there any better advice for this?

Kyle Campbell - Reply

EDIT: It eventually worked after brute force involving a rubber mallet.

Probably not the best idea though…

Kyle Campbell -

Hi Kyle, the “screw trick” should work always, but you need to ensure three things:

1) the thread is on the entire screw

2) there is nothing blocking the nut from going down

3) nut is aligned with the shape of the slot

Jakub Dolezal -

Take the E3D hotend and place it inclined into the Extruder body. Make sure the white PTFE tube fits in properly. Push the hotend into the Extruder body, see the picture.
  • Take the E3D hotend and place it inclined into the Extruder body. Make sure the white PTFE tube fits in properly.

  • Push the hotend into the Extruder body, see the picture.

  • Note the CORRECT orientation of the hotend.

  • Be VERY CAREFUL with the hotend wires from now on, you can damage them.

The PTFE tube insertion should be its own step prior to this one, please.

RWReese - Reply

Nevermind, please.

RWReese - Reply

What should be another VERY CAREFUL point here is to pay attention to the hot end being inserted ALL the way. Pay close attention to the final picture and how far in the hot end is. Mine was not in all the way. It went together and all was good until the XYZ Calibration. Yikes! Took 2 weeks to finally figure out what the heck was wrong. Finally got it thanks to the build forums.

Mike Kwiatkowski - Reply

Rotate the extruder as shown in the picture. Take the extruder-cover and place it on the extruder body. Both printed parts must be in direct contact. Using M3x25 screws tighten both parts together.
  • Rotate the extruder as shown in the picture.

  • Take the extruder-cover and place it on the extruder body. Both printed parts must be in direct contact.

  • Using M3x25 screws tighten both parts together.

On the last step of this part, using the 2 screws to tighten both parts together, I accidentally got the screw and nut cross thread. Now, the nut just turns in the 3D printed part and they’re stuck. I think you should use a longer nut or better quality nut so they don’t get cross thread. Like a coupling nut.

Bob - Reply

With the hot end in and the two parts together, the outside part rocks, as of there is some interference. I had to clean up a bit of the inside of the extruded cover and had to use a 30mm on the right side. A 25 mm wouldn’t even contact it

Steve Worcester - Reply

I agree. M3x25 was too short on that right side. Had to go with a 30

Christopher Tilley - Reply

M3x30 here, too.

RWReese - Reply

For the following steps, please prepare: M3x18 screw (6x)
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • M3x18 screw (6x)

  • Left hotend fan (1x)

  • Front print fan (1x)

  • The left hotend fan has two sides, but the side with sticker must be always facing the hotend (not visible when the fan is mounted). Otherwise the cooling won't work properly.

Bolting on the Front print fan took me a lot of time because I could not get the nut inserted far enough (so the 18mm screw was too short to ‘reach’. 10 minutes of careful scraping/cutting and pulling later the connection was established ;-)

Jeroen - Reply

I suggest using a m3 washer on each m3 screw holding in the front print fan to avoid cracking the casing of the fan at mount points.

Natalie Crandall - Reply

Hi Natalie, thanks for the suggestion. For each fan assembly there is a warning regarding cracking the plastic cover while tightening. If you follow the instructions, you will be fine :)

Jakub Dolezal -

Place the Extruder on the side and guide the wires from the motor in the slot. Place the Left hotend fan on the Extruder. The cable must be placed in the top left corner, see the picture. Note the correct orientation of the fan. The sticker has to face towards the hotend!
  • Place the Extruder on the side and guide the wires from the motor in the slot.

  • Place the Left hotend fan on the Extruder. The cable must be placed in the top left corner, see the picture.

  • Note the correct orientation of the fan. The sticker has to face towards the hotend!

  • Insert M3x18 screws and tighten them slightly.

  • Now, tighten ALL screws, but on a diagonal. After tightening check, the fan can rotate freely.

  • DON'T tighten the screws too hard, all parts are made of plastic and you can break them.

turn the fan so the cable go out to the rear of the carriage

Heiko Schultz - Reply

Hi Heiko, thanks instructions were updated.

Jakub Dolezal -

Not sure where to route the extruder motor wires after they’ve been routed through the slot, as indicated in picture 1.  I currently have them running down the back of the noctua fan and in the slot so it can be routed behind the extruder and wrapped.  In other photos the motor wires are not visible from the back of fan so I’m not sure if there was a step that I missed?

The wires are as snug as I can get them routed around the noctua fan but I'm afraid that they may come loose in time and make contact with the belt.  I think better pictures of the cable routing for the motor could help.  I’ll remove the noctua fan and see if there’s anything I missed.

Corey Dryja - Reply

I think I found the answer to my question and I may have asked my original question out of order.  It looks like there is a slot on the x-carriage that the extruder motor wires are supposed to run through that sits on the side of the fan.  This is not the slot that’s detailed in the steps below.

Corey Dryja -

Rotate the Extruder as in the first picture. Mount the Front print fan using two M3x18 screws.
  • Rotate the Extruder as in the first picture.

  • Mount the Front print fan using two M3x18 screws.

  • DON'T tighten the screws too hard, all parts are made of plastic and you can break them.

Myself and at least a few other users have run into the self test X axis failure due to the fan or extruder wires slightly sticking out behind the fan where the extruder carriage will pinch these wires when it runs into the left Z axis bracket. It would be helpful to new users to show a closeup of how the fan & extruder motor wires need to be tucked into the slot that runs over & behind the fan.

Jason Livingston - Reply

not into the slot, the slot is fine for the extruder cable, but the fan wire is too thick.

the MK2(s) fan cable is without '''cable sheath''' and would fit into. To push both wires into the slot on the MK3 would result in high pressure to the wires.

I’ve guided them directly out at the back of the carriage.

At step 21 you can see the wire and the cutout at the fan

https://picload.org/view/drprorai/2017-1...

Heiko Schultz -

Hi Jason, cable management for extruder cables starts at step 24. It is shown you need to place the cable inside cable clip and then inside the slot on the X-carriage, but I will recheck this part again.

Jakub Dolezal - Reply

the top M3x18 screw is too short. And no, there is nothing blocking the nut ;((

Guntor H - Reply

Hi Guntor, are both nuts properly installed? You can use longer screw to pull them closer and then replace with M3x18.

Jakub Dolezal -

I Had the same problem. The M3x18 is just a millimeter or two too short. I went for a longer screw from the spares. Doesn’t look perfect, but should work perfectly.

Pål Driveklepp - Reply

Same problem with the top m3x18 bolt (or screw if you prefer), it is too short - I used a 20mm one I had for another project

Chris Tipney - Reply

I had today the same problem - i fixed it with a lighter - just screw the nut (in the sparepart) on a screw and heat them a little bit (not to hot!!!) and pull them into the hole (just a little bit) - thats works perfect ;)

Greetings,

Max

Max007 - Reply

thanks for that (frightening) tip! works! better would be a 20mm screw!!!

Christoph Stahl -

I had the same problem with the one screw seeming too short. After I tightened a 20 mm screw in, I noticed there was about 2 mm sticking out and I was able to take it out and put the 18 mm one in. So, I t is just barely long enough and the nut has to be completely seated which I wasn’t able to do without the slightly longer screw to tighten it in.

Ross Stenersen - Reply

Use long screw, tighten it, remove and replace with correct one works for me.

Jan Tomek - Reply

I did the same as Jan above, worked great

Alistair - Reply

For the following steps, please prepare:
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • P.I.N.D.A. probe (1x)

  • M3x10 screw (1x)

  • M3nS nut (1x)

  • The probe is a sensitive device, please handle it with care during the assembly!

Add Comment

Start with the front print fan wire and place it under the cable clip. Gently push the P.I.N.D.A. probe through the mount. Create a loop on the probe wire, then place the wire under the cable clip.
  • Start with the front print fan wire and place it under the cable clip.

  • Gently push the P.I.N.D.A. probe through the mount.

  • Create a loop on the probe wire, then place the wire under the cable clip.

  • Slide the M3nS nut in the slot and tighten the probe SLIGHTLY with the M3x10 screw.

  • The exact position of the P.I.N.D.A. probe will be adjusted later (in Chapter 9, Preflight check), so there is no need to adjust the probe or tighten the screw fully at this point.

Add Comment

Place the Extruder on the Y-carriage as in the first picture. Take the cables from P.I.N.D.A. probe and front print fan, slide it between the lower smooth rod and belt. Take the cables from Extruder motor and left hotend fan, slide it between the lower smooth rod and belt.
  • Place the Extruder on the Y-carriage as in the first picture.

  • Take the cables from P.I.N.D.A. probe and front print fan, slide it between the lower smooth rod and belt.

  • Take the cables from Extruder motor and left hotend fan, slide it between the lower smooth rod and belt.

  • IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to place the cables as shown in the pictures. Please double check your steps.

  • Cables from hotend will be placed under the lowest smooth rod. We will arrange them later.

Add Comment

For the following step, please prepare: M3x40 screw (1x) M3x30 screw (1x)
  • For the following step, please prepare:

  • M3x40 screw (1x)

  • M3x30 screw (1x)

  • M3x18 screw (1x)

  • Mount the Extruder on the X-carriage using the screws above. Tighten all screws, but not fully. We need to arrange the cables first.

  • Guide the cables through slots (channels) on both sides of the Extruder. On left side it is Front Print fan and P.I.N.D.A. probe, on the right side Extruder motor and Left Hotend fan.

  • Ensure the cables are in the channels and not pinched between printed parts. Now, tighten all screws, equally to prevent issues.

First guide the cables (especially from the extruder), then tighten the screws.

Michal - Reply

Make sure the stepper and hot end fan wires are in the side channel otherwise they will get pinched and damaged when tightening the three screws.

William Dutcher - Reply

+1 William, I had to take mine off and reroute the cable because I missed that.

Austin Hampton - Reply

Guys, thank you for the feedback. Description of the step adjusted.

Jakub Dolezal - Reply

The M3x18 head sunk in far deeper in the part without any added resistance where it should have stopped. A print quality issue?

Bo Gustafsson - Reply

Hi Bo, the M3x18 screw will be fixed by M3nS nut inserted earlier. No resistance along the path (hole) is needed.

Jakub Dolezal -

Jakob, please emphasize placing the extruder stepper motor wires in the channel above the beige fan. I still missed that.

RWReese - Reply

Hi, there is an extra picture for this in step 21. At this step it is too late as the fan is already mounted, if we are talking about the channel above the fan.

Jakub Dolezal -

Agreeing with all the above comments!

My suggestion:

Mount the Extruder on the X-carriage using the screws above. Take especially care that the cables from Extruder and hotend fan are guided in the slot/channel.

Tighten all screws, but not fully. We need to arrange the cables first.

Tom Ludensen Christensen - Reply

Hi Tom,

thanks I will stress out, which cables must be arranged.

Jakub Dolezal -

Additional information needs to be provided for routing the extruder stepper motor cables.  I tucked the cables into the channel above the fan but didn't realize that there was another channel on the x-carriage assembly that the cables needed to be routed through.  I ran the motor cables through the top channel, then around the side of the fan, and into the slot pictured above with the orange arrows.

Corey Dryja - Reply

thanks Corey, I completely missed that second channel.

There definitely needs to be a picture and some instructions clarifying the guiding of the motor cables!

Adam White - Reply

For the following steps, please prepare:
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • X-carriage-back (1x)

  • Cable-holder (1x)

  • M3n nut (1x)

  • M3x10 screw (1x)

  • The M3x10 screw will be used temporarily, use one from the spare bag.

  • M3x40 screw (1x)

Add Comment

Insert the M3x10 screw in the X-carriage-back. Tighten it completely. Rotate the printed part and insert the M3n nut. Tighten the M3x10 screw until the nut slides in the printed part. Note the shape of the cutout for the nut, you might need to adjust (rotate) the nut.
  • Insert the M3x10 screw in the X-carriage-back. Tighten it completely.

  • Rotate the printed part and insert the M3n nut.

  • Tighten the M3x10 screw until the nut slides in the printed part. Note the shape of the cutout for the nut, you might need to adjust (rotate) the nut.

  • Remove the M3x10 screw and place it back in the spare bag.

Stuck here. Nuts keep falling off. Cannot sit tightly on printed part

Cell99@Mike - Reply

Doesn’t really matter, just move onto the next few steps where the cable-holder is attached, it will keep the nut in place.

Robert Hunt - Reply

The bag of spare fasteners was a good idea. At this step the nut seized on the M3x10 screw before the nut bottomed. It was impossible to get a good grip of the nut since it had sunk enough in the plastic to make it ungrippable. The head of the screw had to be drilled off so the nut could be removed. Luckily the new nut went in well and did not seem to spin in the now by the seized nut reamed hole.

Bo Gustafsson - Reply

Managed to get the nut to sit. I used a plier to twist the nuts as far in as possible and then I screw the m3 screw from the other side to pull the nut in. If the nut is dotted properly the next 2 step is easier.

Cell99@Mike - Reply

I had the same problem Bo encountered. I believe this step should be removed as the nut will be retained during, what is currently, step 30. I will also have to cut the bolt head off and I have not determine if I will need to reprint the part yet. Maybe in the future these components should be reviewed to relocate the retainer nut so that it is not so close to the bottom x bearing housing. I may reprint this piece with the wire harness bolt moved down 1-2mm.

Regards,

Jeff Underly - Reply

Prepare the M3x40 screw and cable-holder from the previous step. Tighten the screw all the way through the printed part.
  • Prepare the M3x40 screw and cable-holder from the previous step.

  • Tighten the screw all the way through the printed part.

  • Note there is a slot for the screw's head on one side of the printed part.

You can not tighten it yet. It just slides in.

Michael Stegen - Reply

Hi Michael, you should be able to slide/push the screw through the part, but sometimes Allen key is needed.

Jakub Dolezal -

There are a number of places in this manual where the word “tighten” or “tighten completely” may not be the best choice of words. In this case, “fully insert” would be better. Likewise, in Step 28 “tighten completely” is not possible as there are no threads to allow the screw to become tight. Perhaps “thread the screw completely through…” is better. On the Y axis belt assembly, I cracked my belt holder following the instructions to “tighten completely” and put a little too much force not yet having a feel for how brittle the plastic is. I think Michael is just pointing out that the language could use some improvement on this step (and maybe others).

Ryan Sealy - Reply

Place the X-carriage-back as in the picture. You must see the MK3 sign. Tighten the X-carriage-back and the cable-holder together. Check the "u-shaped" slot is aligned properly on both parts.
  • Place the X-carriage-back as in the picture. You must see the MK3 sign.

  • Tighten the X-carriage-back and the cable-holder together.

  • Check the "u-shaped" slot is aligned properly on both parts.

Printed part is 3mm too long. The m3x40 screw needs 6mm to secure to the trapped nut, and it only has 3mm overhang once fully inserted into the cable holder.

Bill Connelly - Reply

Hi Billy, are you sure the screw was fully inserted and nothing was blocking it?

Jakub Dolezal -

Your part must have had better printing, there’s no discernible MK3 marking on mine

Steve Worcester - Reply

Locate the cable for filament sensor in the package. There are two types of the connectors on the cable:
  • Locate the cable for filament sensor in the package.

  • There are two types of the connectors on the cable:

  • Connector for the sensor (used now)

  • Connector for the EINSY board (used later)

Are these backwards? Einsy board can’t accept a 5 pin plug?

Cameron Lamont - Reply

Hi Cameron, 4 pin connector (marked green) goes to the sensor and the 5 pin connector (marked orange) goes to EINSY. In case you can't fit it, you must be using different port on the EINSY board.

Jakub Dolezal -

Use the cable from the previous step and connect it carefully to the filament sensor. Note the connector has two different sides. The side with safety pin must be on the left. Gently rotate the cable (clockwise) to create a small loop, see the second picture.
  • Use the cable from the previous step and connect it carefully to the filament sensor.

  • Note the connector has two different sides. The side with safety pin must be on the left.

  • Gently rotate the cable (clockwise) to create a small loop, see the second picture.

  • Push the cable through the opening on the X-carriage.

rotate the cable to the loop because a straight wire directly ouf of the plug will collide with the frame or spool holder on top when reaching 180mm or more.

maybe, if you’r using a custom spool holder, the spool holder itself won’t work any longer on a MK3

Heiko Schultz - Reply

Good point, this should be added to the step to explain why you need to loop the cable as people might not bother.

Robert Hunt -

As silly as this sounds, now is the perfect time to notate that the bottom bearing needs to be properly seated, mine was loose to the right of the extruder mount at this point as it was not attached in any way (so still on the rod, not seated in the printed mount) and I didn’t catch it until self=test calibration on the X-Axis failed as the bearing was impeding travel…. it was a major pain to go back and fix it.

Benjamin Curto - Reply

Push the cables from the Extruder THROUGH the X-carriage-back. Start with Extruder motor and left hotend fan. In the next step add the front print fan and P.I.N.D.A. probe cables. Cables from hotend and filament sensor are NOT GOING through the X-carriage-back!
  • Push the cables from the Extruder THROUGH the X-carriage-back. Start with Extruder motor and left hotend fan.

  • In the next step add the front print fan and P.I.N.D.A. probe cables.

  • Cables from hotend and filament sensor are NOT GOING through the X-carriage-back!

  • Slide the X-carriage-back towards the X-axis.

Check to make sure the nylon fits now before putting the cover on. My hole was too small.

Paul Betz - Reply

I had to go back to this step to add the nylon! I can highly recommend doing it NOW! Much less chance to damage the wires!

Christoph Stahl - Reply

Agreed - place filament now and be patient and careful while tightening in step 35.

David Beach -

I agree that the nylon needs to be inserted now. I had to undo everything from step 38 back to this one to get the nylon in.

Ken Ondo - Reply

Guys (@stahlfabrik, @kjondo), the decision to put the NYLON filament later on is based on our experience during internal tests. Many users managed to pull the NYLON filament out during the X-carriage-back assembly, but thanks for the feedback. We will consider some changes.

Jakub Dolezal - Reply

Before pressing the X-carriage-back against the X-axis, place the filament sensor cable though the slot. See both pictures. Check the cables are not pinched between the X-carriage-back and the X-axis!!!
  • Before pressing the X-carriage-back against the X-axis, place the filament sensor cable though the slot. See both pictures.

  • Check the cables are not pinched between the X-carriage-back and the X-axis!!!

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Using five M3x10 screws tighten the parts together in following order: Start in the middle and ensure proper alignment.
  • Using five M3x10 screws tighten the parts together in following order:

  • Start in the middle and ensure proper alignment.

  • Continue in the corners, tighten all screws equally.

I had to losen the 2 top skews or els my length calibration wouldn’t finish.

Ian Warendorf - Reply

Hi Ian, can you please describe your issue? You can attach pictures as well (http://manual.prusa3d.com/Answers). Thanks

Jakub Dolezal -

I also found that self test will give X axis error when the five screws are tightened to much. Just tighten the screws until the seams between the printed parts close. All five, not just the top two.

Christoph Stahl -

Go to step 37/38 (Inserting the NYLON filament) and check if you do not want to do it now.

Michal - Reply

The (2) M310 screws were too short to catch the nuts for the top two points, I used (2) M318 from the E-axis bag that (as far as I can tell) aren’t being used anywhere else. They fit, they work.

Benjamin Curto - Reply

Hi Benjamin, I strongly advise against using different lengths of the screws. The design is tested several times before being released. Are you sure both printed parts are seated properly and there is no gap between them, which may result in “need” of longer screws?

Jakub Dolezal -

Confirmed, had to loosen screws to succeed in X-axis calibration, should be noted to tighten (all five) just until seams close then stop.

Benjamin Curto - Reply

Hi Benjamin, if the parts are seated properly, you can tighten them without affecting the X-axis calibration. What issue was causing your printer to fail X-axis calibration?

Jakub Dolezal -

I also had the same problem with the top 2 screws not screwing in all the way. The printed parts appear to be seated properly. I adjusted the middle screw and re-aligned the printed parts. The top 2 screws still had trouble catching the nuts and I had to apply a bit of force to get the screws to catch.

Alex Wilkie - Reply

There are two NYLON filaments included in the kit with lengths 50 and 30 cm. Both have Ø 3 mm. For this step please use the longer one and DON'T TRIM any of them! Using the pliers cut one end of the filament to create a tip. Check the tip is similar to the third picture.
  • There are two NYLON filaments included in the kit with lengths 50 and 30 cm. Both have Ø 3 mm. For this step please use the longer one and DON'T TRIM any of them!

  • Using the pliers cut one end of the filament to create a tip.

  • Check the tip is similar to the third picture.

its is better to cut out with a cutter

printminion - Reply

We are using the tools, which are included in the kit, but if you have some more appropriate tool at your disposal, use it ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

The included pliers/cutter just squished the filament without breaking it. I had to use a different tool.

Neal Tibrewala - Reply

Hi Neal, it is possible to do it with included pliers (picture above is the proof), in case you have a better tool, please use it :)

Jakub Dolezal -

The NYLON filament must be pressed through the opening in the X-carriage-back to a circular slot in the X-carriage. See the second picture, where both printed parts are shown without cables.
  • The NYLON filament must be pressed through the opening in the X-carriage-back to a circular slot in the X-carriage.

  • See the second picture, where both printed parts are shown without cables.

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Using the pliers insert the NYLON filament in the slot. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL as the pliers tends to slide and you can easily damage the wires!!!
  • Using the pliers insert the NYLON filament in the slot.

  • BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL as the pliers tends to slide and you can easily damage the wires!!!

  • To check if the filament is seated properly, gently pull it with your hand. The X-axis should bend a little, but the filament must remain in the slot.

  • If you have issues, try to adjust the tip on the filament.

I don’t understand the fuzz about the size of the hole the nylon filament has to go it. Isn’t it meant to be tight, so you can pressure fit the filament? The filament doesn’t have to go all the way THOUGH the hole? Maybe adding info concerning the reason why we need that piece of filament here would help.

Guntor H - Reply

Hi Guntor, as the nylon filament is the stiffest part of the cable bundle it will retake most of the forces introduced by the moving Extruder, decreasing the load on the other cables. Also, the whole bundle will be lifted up by the nylon filament preventing it from interfering with the printed object. However, it will work this way only if you fix both ends of the filament properly.

Jakub Dolezal -

I heated the filament end with a lighter before pressing into the hole, to get a nice fit

keo - Reply

Mine easily pops back out. How fast should the filament go into the hole?

RWReese - Reply

My filament would kink, despite having perfect tips, and yet would still come out easily. I followed Leo's tip for it to work.

I think the filament should be added prior to installing the back plate when you are preparing the cables and inserting them through the plate.

RWReese - Reply

I removed the cover, formed the filament into a slight point, and pushed it into the hole with my pliers. With the cover removed I could see what I was doing. I then put the filament through the hole in the cover. The filament is tight in the little hole. I completed this step by replacing the cover.

E Duane Rose - Reply

This step is very dangerous and you can easily break something when applying too much force. I found easy solution for it however and would recommend to update instruction with it. After making a tip on top of filament, reduce diameter arround the tip just a little with sandpaper. After that the filament should slide in a lot easier and will also hold a decent grip.

Paweł Mackiewicz - Reply

Guide the filament sensor cable through the slot in the X-carriage-back and join the remaining cables. Wrap the spiral wrap (the largest and the longest one) around the cables and the nylon filament.
  • Guide the filament sensor cable through the slot in the X-carriage-back and join the remaining cables.

  • Wrap the spiral wrap (the largest and the longest one) around the cables and the nylon filament.

  • Start with cables from the upper part, after 3-4 turns slide the wrap on the cable-holder. If possible, press the wrap slightly in the X-carriage-back.

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Use three zip ties and push them through the lower slots on the cable-holder Check for the last time both the wrap and cables are seated properly.
  • Use three zip ties and push them through the lower slots on the cable-holder

  • Check for the last time both the wrap and cables are seated properly.

  • PAY GREAT ATTENTION to the final position of the zip ties. If you don't follow the manual, you will have issues during prints!

  • Tighten first zip tie on the side of the cable-holder and cut the zip tie as close as possible to the printed part.

  • Tighten second and third zip tie on the top, but note they both must be slightly to the left. Cut the zip ties as close as possible to the spiral wrap.

With the cable ties in this exact position, the top square part of the ties was bumping into the PSU frame, preventing the X axis from moving all the way to the right, and resulting in a self test X axis failure. I had to rotate the ties so the square part is positioned directly on top of the cable bundle instead of slightly left.

Jason Livingston - Reply

I confirm, that’s the case with the middle zip tie. The outers don’t cause any problems.

https://tinyurl.com/y9bjfvg2

Heiko Schultz -

Hi Jason, can you please post pictures of your setup? We've tested the zip tie layout several times to ensure, it works.

Heiko (@predatorjr) you zip ties are not aligned as described in the manual, please recheck this section.

Jakub Dolezal -

I had a similar problem. I had to move the zip tie closest to the extruder to avoid it hitting the frame and causing the self test to fail. It was exactly as the images (but the zip tie was trimmed flush on mine, which should be the best case for clearance). To fix it, I did as Jason suggested and moved the square part of the zip tie to the top of the bundle.

Steven Underwood -

I can confirm I had the same issue as Steven. Moving all zip ties to the top fixed the issue.

Paul Betz - Reply

Both of my MK3s had the same issue as well. All 3 zip ties have to be in the top position for the X-axis to work properly

Ezra Scott - Reply

I tried following the directions but experienced an x fail so I listened to the comments and now it works properly.

Kyle Campbell - Reply

Same here, X text failed. Orange arrow, innermost zip tie hitting frame when placed as shown above. With all zip tie ratchets on top it works just fine.

J Allen - Reply

Guys, thank you very much for the feedback, we will rerun our tests again and make adjustments to the manual.

Jakub Dolezal - Reply

Same here. Had X-axis failures until I moved the zip tie heads on top.

The description is very specific in getting the closest zip tie to be on the side otherwise “you will have issues during prints! “. I couldn’t figure out what these could be. Could you elaborate?

LaurentR - Reply

Hi Laurent, for certain geometry of spool holder the “closest” zip tie can cause crashing of the Extruder in the top position, that is we advise to move it on side and cut the as much as possible of the overhanging part.

Jakub Dolezal -

Same issue with zip ties here, solved by rotating all heads to top or bottom of wire bundle.

Bruce Moore - Reply

Use two zip ties and push them through the upper slots on the cable-holder. ATTENTION! Before tightening the zip ties add the cables from the hotend. Once the hotend cables are included, tighten the zip ties and cut remaining parts.
  • Use two zip ties and push them through the upper slots on the cable-holder.

  • ATTENTION! Before tightening the zip ties add the cables from the hotend.

  • Once the hotend cables are included, tighten the zip ties and cut remaining parts.

Add Comment

Make one more turn of the spiral wrap, then add the cables from the hotend. Wrap the whole cable bundle.
  • Make one more turn of the spiral wrap, then add the cables from the hotend.

  • Wrap the whole cable bundle.

This cable management is so clean and wonderful! I always struggled to get the mk2s as clean as I wanted it to be, for me this is a very nice improvement (as well as so many other “small" improvements in addition to the new features).

Steven Underwood - Reply

Hi Steven, I'm glad you appreciate the update to the cable management ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

For the following steps, please prepare:
  • For the following steps, please prepare:

  • Idler-plug (1x)

  • Filament-sensor-cover (1x)

  • PTFE tube (1x)

  • M3x10 screw (2x)

Where am I supposed to find that PFTE tube cut?

Alex Tutusaus - Reply

in the bag “5. E-axis”, it is together with nuts and bolts

Jakub Dolezal -

Locate the largest circular opening for the PTFE tube on the top of the Extruder. Push the PTFE tube in. Majority of the tube's length will stick out.
  • Locate the largest circular opening for the PTFE tube on the top of the Extruder.

  • Push the PTFE tube in. Majority of the tube's length will stick out.

If you have clumsy hands like me go ahead and put the PTFE tube in into the filament cover. It will stay in place that way when your putting the cover on instead of flying across the room when your hands slip.

Paul Betz - Reply

Hi Paul, the PTFE tube is made from rather soft material. We suggest our way of assembly to prevent damage to the tube in case there is an obstacle in the hole. If you use cover, you can introduce much higher force and deform the tube.

Jakub Dolezal -

I reached the same conclusion as Paul, possibly for a different reason. The PTFE tube did not fit ‘firmly’ in the hole in top of the extruder, it just wobbled about loose. It looks if I tried ‘pushing’ the tube in, expecting to find a firmer fit, I might have tried pushing it hard against the side of the imaging IC on the filament sensor which seems risky.

For my parts, as far as I can tell there wasn’t an obstacle in the hole, much the opposite, it was too loose, and I couldn’t ‘push’ the tube into the extruder, rather just ‘rest’ it in there. I pushed it into the cover instead to get things to align, and the cover screw down without a problem.

I agree this was quite possibly a bad idea as in trying to debug what happened I find I cannot pull the tube back out of the cover, suggesting it is quite tight. I’ll see what happens, and don’t have specific suggestions for others following the instructions.

Kenneth Albanowski - Reply

I did the same as Paul and Kenneth and found this a better way than placing the PFTE in the hole first (it was wobbly and didn’t go in too much). I took it apart again to check for any damage and didn’t see any so I believe it’s a safe bet in case you can’t for some reason do it as per manual instructions.

Florian Ford - Reply

Carefully slide the filament cover on the PTFE tube. Using two M3x10 screws mount the cover.
  • Carefully slide the filament cover on the PTFE tube.

  • Using two M3x10 screws mount the cover.

The button right screw does not fully tighten. It does not stop rotating but it hold the cover in place and does not rotate freely. I’be tried to back trace the installation steps in the manual and could'nt find where the insrucation of the nut is? Is it missing?

יוסי שלי - Reply

Hi, there isn’t any nut hidden in the Extruder body. Both screws should “bore” in the printed part of the Extruder, this is enough to keep the m in place. Please check the cover isn’t able to move and let me know ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Locate the part, where the idler is cut out (M3 screw is visible). Assemble the idler-plug and ensure it fits properly. Otherwise, it might fall down during the print.
  • Locate the part, where the idler is cut out (M3 screw is visible).

  • Assemble the idler-plug and ensure it fits properly. Otherwise, it might fall down during the print.

Can someone explain the purpose of this plug? Is it just for looks or does it serve a function?

Paul Betz - Reply

Hi Paul, the plug prevents dust and other particles from the reaching the sensor.

Jakub Dolezal -

I found myself asking this same question.

Joe

jperch - Reply

Hi Joe, the plug protects the sensor. See my comment above.

Jakub Dolezal -

For the following step, please prepare: Fan-nozzle (1x) M3x10 screw (1x)
  • For the following step, please prepare:

  • Fan-nozzle (1x)

  • M3x10 screw (1x)

  • Carefully slide the X-axis up so you have access to the lower part of the Extruder.

  • Release slightly both screws on the front print fan.

  • Assemble the fan-nozzle and tighten all three screws.

  • In case you are missing M3x10 screw, please use one from the spare bag.

I do not have M3x10, I have two M3x18 and one M3x30. The package contained only 9 pieces of M3x10.

Michal - Reply

Same, but I had an extra from a previous step so I didn't have to dip into the spare bag.

Steven Underwood -

Same with me too. I had two extras from a previous step. I keep winding up with extra screws or missing some so I keep second guessing myself thinking I screwed up somewhere.

Paul Betz - Reply

Same here. 2 m3x18, 1 m3x30, no m3x10. Stole a spare from previous step.

Paul Meyer - Reply

Same here. Spent a fair amount of time retracing my prior steps to see if I’d made a mistake.

Brandon Oprendek - Reply

Step description updated, in case you are missing screw to mount the fan-nozzle, please use the spare bag. I'm sorry for the issues.

Jakub Dolezal - Reply

What was the purpose of loosening the print fan ? For me the part seems to fit correctly regardless.

Chris Pardy - Reply

Hi Chris, to align nozzle and fan it is better to have them both loose.

Jakub Dolezal -

missing M3x10 also.

Josh Miller - Reply

Step 35 I’m fairly sure was supposed to be (2) M3x18 for the top two points (not M3x10), that’s what I used and now I have this M3x10 free for this step.

Benjamin Curto - Reply

Hi Benjamin, screw lengths have been checked several times, they are all correct. Some early MK3 kits might be missing this M3x10 screw, but you can use one from spare bag.

Jakub Dolezal -

Missing here too

Alistair - Reply

No 10mm screw left but, as mentioned before, there were a couple left from previous steps that seemingly had extra. For me the fan duct went on with absolutely no effort and screwed in right away. I checked it from all angles, it went on as it should have so no blower fan touching for this step..

Florian Ford - Reply

Are we there yet? Almost! You've just finished the hardest part of the assembly. Awesome job!
  • Are we there yet? Almost! You've just finished the hardest part of the assembly. Awesome job!

  • Check the final look, compare it to the picture.

  • Checked everything? Let's move to: 6. LCD assembly

Why no gummy bear?

David Naoum - Reply

I assumed gummy bears to be already eaten :)

Jakub Dolezal -

The hardest part and we don’t even get one gummy bear? That felt like it was worth 3 gummy bears

Josh Miller - Reply

Josh if you have some left, then definitely treat yourself ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Man this was sooo complicated and definitely hardest so far… I am kinda scared about reaching to different parts should the need arise… like if we want to take the belt away, or if it’s still too loose (skipping steos), etc etc … it would be such daunting to take it all apart. I believe at least access to the belt’s insertion onto the X Carriage should have been granted by design.

Florian Ford - Reply

Hi Florian, the Extruder is the hardest part indeed and we are listening to your feedback, so currently testing new parts for easier assembly and maintenance ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Cannot suggest a time. However Cook me 1:45

Alexander Buschek - Reply

Finish Line

123 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

47,525 Reputation

104 Guides authored

17 Comments

Step 32-33: first you're tinkering with the filament sensor, then the next step is to pull a cable through the x-carriage back…

Took me a while to figure out that it was the - extruder- cable and not the- filament sensor cable-.

It is written, but just looking at the drawings, I was sure it was the same cable. Oh well RTFM to me :-p

Kenneth - Reply

Hi Kenneth, I'm sure you wanted your printer up and running asap and this is were some mistakes happen :) In case of issues with the assembly, always double check the previous steps.

Jakub Dolezal -

An hour and a hlaf, that part was pretty tedious. Putting the nuts in at 16 & 17 could probably be pushed down in order some. They were n’t used till quite a bit later, and kept falling out.

Scott - Reply

Step 28 needs a warning, some how I stripped the screw or it somehow the nut froze on the screw which led to the nut free spinning in the part. I ended up having to print another part.

Mike Carr - Reply

Hi Mike, can you please upload pictures or video? You can place them here: http://manual.prusa3d.com/Answers Thanks :)

Jakub Dolezal -

I had the same problem in step 28. Surprisingly he nut seized on the M3x10screw. Luckily I could still use the part because the nut had not fully bottomed in the hex when it happened. Removing the head from the screw to get it out was a bit of pain though.

Bo Gustafsson -

I had the same problem. I believe this step should be removed as the nut will be retained during, what is currently, step 30. I will also have to cut the bolt head off and I have not determine if I will need to reprint the part yet. Maybe in the future these components should be reviewed to relocate the retainer nut so that it is not so close to the bottom x bearing housing. I may reprint this piece with the wire harness bolt moved down 1-2mm.

Regards,

Jeff Underly -

Step 40. Read the comments or there will be collision problems.

Bo Gustafsson - Reply

Anybody end with extra screws? I got two m18 and one m30….short with one m10 and took from spare.

Bill D - Reply

Yes, I had exactly the same amount of leftover screws.

Tomi Orava -

same here…………

Mike Cohen -

+1

12 characters

D Wellnitz -

Bondtech claims you should add grease to the shaft for the needle bearing.. am i missing the step in the instructions or shouldnt i add grease?

Daniel Hellström - Reply

Hi Daniel, during the assembly no grease is needed, only for later maintenance.

Jakub Dolezal -

I added a small amount of high temperature grease to each bearing. Just didn’t seem right putting them in there dry.

E Duane Rose -

Step 22 was very difficult to get the hex screw to stay in place in the ‘arm’ for the air blower fan. Perhaps a longer screw? Or a square nut/slot style here? I ended up using a large allen key (same size as the nut outer diameter) to press the nut in and flat for the screw to bite.

Cameron Lamont - Reply

On step 35, I could not for the life of me get the M3x10 screws to work. I resorted to using the spare M3x18 screws, and they worked like a charm. The problem was the M3x10 screws just werent long enough to get to the nuts for some reason.

Zachary Goyer - Reply

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