2.5 and 1.5 mm Allen key
  • 2.5 and 1.5 mm Allen key

  • Needle-nose pliers

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Extruder cover
  • Extruder cover

  • Extruder body

  • Extruder idler

  • Fan nozzle (can be in orange color, dimensions are the same).

One of the slanted fins of my extruder cover piece came out of the bag broken. Maybe needs reinforcement.

Li Cai - Reply

Would be useful to add a note here to say that the black piece can also be orange on newer kits

John Cummings - Reply

You should offer an instruction manual for these guys, that build a kit including the multicolor upgrade:

If you're using multi-extrudor-setting first follow the manual and assemble the multiplexer. after that, step 10 is done, continue with step 20 and prepare the P.I.N.D.A. probe - only this single step. Go back to multiplexer assembling continuing with step 11 to 15

The steps 11 to 24 of this guide are obsolete to build up with multiplexer

Heiko Schultz - Reply

In the january 2017 shipment the Fan Nozzle is also printed in orange so don't go looking for a black piece as depicted in the photo.

Avi Schwartz - Reply

The curved post on the bottom left of my extruder body came out of the bag broken off.

Nathan Dabling - Reply

If you're experiencing troubles with getting nut into the top hole, just follow these simple steps. Screw M3 nut a bit on some long screw (M3x40 works best). Push the screw with the nut into the hole where it is supposed to be.
  • If you're experiencing troubles with getting nut into the top hole, just follow these simple steps.

  • Screw M3 nut a bit on some long screw (M3x40 works best).

  • Push the screw with the nut into the hole where it is supposed to be.

  • Grab the screw with pliers and gently hammer the nut in place using a wrench.

Tip for Step 6: An alternative to seating the nut in from the front by hitting a bolt with a wrench is to draw it in from behind like this: Drop the nut into the loose part of its channel. Take one of the shorter bolts -- one threaded all the way to its head -- and thread it into the nut _from_behind_. Then use an Allen key (hex wrench) to gently draw the nut into the tight portion of its channel.

George Fouriezos - Reply

It's definitely better. May apply for some other steps. Should be a general tip.

Thierry Paché -

Even better solution is to push the bolt in from behind AND THEN thread the nut onto the bolt. Pull the nut into the channel and then tight the nut to draw it to the bottom. Instead of fumbling around with a loose nut in the channel.

Matthew Lozy -

worked like a charm, easy and fast.

Paolo Gaiardelli -

instead of hammring this into place you can use one of the fully threaded screws inserted from the oposite side to pull it into place. I found hat the hammering of the nut did nto work for me.

Don Jensen - Reply

( seems George and i ha the same idea did not see this until after i posted)

Don Jensen - Reply

I did that too, I used spare M310 and 4 washers to gently pull the nut all the way into the trap

David Hayes - Reply

This nut was very troublesome for me, the channel on my part was too loose and regardless of how far the nut went down, it still fell out. I would actually suggest a modification to the plastic part where it should use a longer bolt and have the nut closer to the surface. Not sure if that will screw anything up or not but this was very challenging for me.

Daniel Lipsky - Reply

Guess I'm not the only one here with a little mechanical aptitude: use a bolt to seat the nut; don't hammer the delicate plastic pieces...

Steve Rands - Reply

you can check whether you've got it in far enough by putting a 20mm screw in from the other side. the head should be at least 15mm from the face of the plastic (if not, the fan won't fit)

James Heath - Reply

Place the M3 nuts (2 pcs) into the traps on the left side of the extruder body. Slide the M3nS square nuts (2 pcs) into the traps on the right side of the extruder body. Place the nuts as deep as possible.
  • Place the M3 nuts (2 pcs) into the traps on the left side of the extruder body.

  • Slide the M3nS square nuts (2 pcs) into the traps on the right side of the extruder body.

  • Place the nuts as deep as possible.

Make sure the m3 nut shown second from left in image is in deep enough. If it sticks out the extruder cover will not close nicely and you might think it is due to extra filament in the cover.

Put the one shown on far left as deep as possible otherwise the bolt need to mount the fan in step 15 will not reach it...and you will have to take it a part again.

Jurgen B - Reply

Folks, heed this advice or you'll be taking the assembly apart again to fix this. I'd suggest even putting the fan on first and making sure the nuts make it all the way down into the hole so that the fan mounting screw can reach it.

Perplumblewintz Jonz -

I found that the M3nS square nuts kept falling out as I turned the body over and around. Putting a small piece of tape over them will keep them in place until assembly is complete.

Curtis N Bingham - Reply

I fed a small clipping of wire through them, kept them in place

Greg -

A spare zip tie worked great. You don't even need to waste it by zipping it in place - it holds just fine shoved in there.

Steve Rands -

I'm using a spare M3 screw to keep those square nuts in place. I don't know when I'll need to remove it, so far so good.

Paolo Gaiardelli -

One hex nut is a loose fit in its "tunnel". Maybe I should have hammered it home (assuming the tunnel is tapered towards the end). I had to take the extruder apart (twice) and hold the nut in place with Blue tack.

Howard Watkins - Reply

My hex nut traps were very tight, I used a screw an washer to pull the nuts into the traps, seemed the safest way

David Hayes - Reply

Great tip! I Did the same, worked like a charm.

Greg -

Good tip David, but I would add to use a screw with the tread going up to the screw head. I used a M3x30 screw for which it is not the case, and got the nut blocked midway through the trap and had to saw the head of the screw. Otherwise great tip.

Jacquouille La Fripouille - Reply

One of the square nuts seems unneeded in these steps and will constantly fall out while assembling the extruder. I suggest leaving the one by the longest side out until you need it after this step and then put it in. The part is exposed the whole time so no need to frustrate yourself with keeping it in the whole time.

Daniel Lipsky - Reply

I put both the square nuts aside until needed to save searching for them whenever they fell out of their slots. The first one is used for step 7 and the second for step 25 (through step 27).

Marianne Davis -

For the M3 hex nuts I put them on the end of a screw and pushed them in that way. Was super easy. At first i was trying to push them in with my fingers and it would go in crooked.

Matthew Lozy - Reply

Suggestion based on 2 hours trying to save this extruder base after.

I've added all nuts and especially second one from left that had to be slightly hit to fit.

I aligned it the best I could and thought it was perfectly horizontal.

In the last part, when we screw the extruder to the x axis with the 3 screws, during the screwing of the referred second one, due to the not totally flat position of the nut inside the hole, it completely grabbed to the nut.

I spent 2 hours trying to find a way to remove the extruder that was totally grabbed by that screw that destroyed the entire securing of the nut. Took a lot of patience and technic to remove all of it whithout loosing the entire structure.

Conclusion: To avoid this situation, it is better to put the nut on the begginning of the hole, insert the a small screw from the other side and tighten it up. this way the nut will go correctly and without damage to the bottom. of the hose base and this type of problems would be avoided.. Just a suggestion for improvement.

Victor Moreira - Reply

Just to clarify my previous comment.

I added all nuts and especially second one from left that had to be slightly hit to fit. I aligned it the best I could and thought it was ok.

In last part, during extruder mount to x carriage, has I screwed the second screw to nut, it totally grabbed the nut and destroyed the interior nut securing plastic, leaving me stuck without options to remove it. I spent around 2 hours finding way to remove extruder without destroying any parts. It took a lot of patience and technic but I managed to disassemble all parts around base, and saw the screw without destroying all parts.

Conclusion: To avoid this situation, it's better not to hit the nut into the hole. Instead, if we place the nut on the begginning of the hole, insert a smaller screw from the other side and tighten it up, it will aligned the nut and screw perfectly and position the nut in hole perfectly. This way, it will totally avoid this possible issue. Just a suggestion for improvement. :)

Victor Moreira - Reply

I think the square nuts should be left until they are needed, since they just fall out. That's what I did, but since there was no reminder when I finally attached the entier assembly, I forgot the last one and had to re-do a little bit.

The other comment is that one fo the hex nuts kept rattling inside the assembly all the way until I installed it on the X-axis; had me a bit worried that I had missed something. A note about that would be nice.

Torbjörn Lindh - Reply

Slide the extruder body on the nozzle as shown in the picture. Push the nozzle all the way down and make sure that cables are on the side as shown in the picture. Push the nozzle all the way down and make sure that cables are on the side as shown in the picture.
  • Slide the extruder body on the nozzle as shown in the picture.

  • Push the nozzle all the way down and make sure that cables are on the side as shown in the picture.

For anyone wishing to install the silicone sock (please note: the silicone sock is a mod you do on your own and it's not recommended by Prusa as far as I know), now it's the time to install it. Trying to install it afterwards would be messy.

Paolo Gaiardelli - Reply

The ptfe pulls right out and can be slid right back in. I'd remove it and be sure nothing is in it or the extruder before you go further. Mine never extruded right and after weeks of messing with it, I disassembled it and found a foreign object in it. Pretty sure it was a piece of ptfe, but can't be positive.

Solomon Chambers - Reply

Place the M3 nuts (2 pcs) into the traps of the extruder cover. Top nut needs to be pushed all the way down! (the nut trap has 2 diameters, only last 3 mm have correct diameter for the nut trap).
  • Place the M3 nuts (2 pcs) into the traps of the extruder cover.

  • Top nut needs to be pushed all the way down! (the nut trap has 2 diameters, only last 3 mm have correct diameter for the nut trap).

Be sure to not forget the top right nut - be aware that there this will end up having two nuts in the same chamber. I missed this and had to tear it all apart when I realized that I forgot it.

It will probably help to use one of the 40mm screws and a small hammer to lightly set the nut deep in the stay in on top right.

BC - Reply

which means I'm lacking a nut, in bag 5 E-axis, I picked one from the spares.

Paolo Gaiardelli -

As per previous comment, I also missed that there are 2 nuts in the same shaft. It is not so difficult to correct, when you just take off the vent you can open this part again.

Alain Geenrits - Reply

I also missed that two nuts going into the same shaft, later on in step 28 you will use the same hole but from the other side and if you don't use two nuts it won't tighten.

Justin bartholomewbale - Reply

I had to shave a little filament on the bottom trap, it was circular rather than hexagonal o the nut wouldn't fit without some trimming

David Hayes - Reply

When you are checking if the nut in the deep trap is deep enough, you should see it about 1mm from the surface on the other side. You have to be able to reach it with a 20mm screw going through the ducted fan unit.

Tom Capon - Reply

I used one of the fully-threaded m3-18 screws to pull the deep nut into place from the other side. Kept tightening until I felt it bottom out.

Bruce Crowder - Reply

Excellent tip, Bruce - worked great!

Kemp Brown -

I had trouble getting the nuts to sit square in the holes. Finally figured out: 1) push a bolt through; 2) thread the nut onto the bolt a little first; 3) pull the bolt back to get the nut in the hole squarely; 4) bottom out the nut by tightening the bolt - worked like a charm.

Works WAY better than the next step.

Steve Rands - Reply

Good idea tightening the bolt. Thanks for the tip!

Matthew Lozy - Reply

The instructions for this particular step should be clarified - do I have to place 2 nuts in the same shaft as per the comment from BC? Assuming yes, I have to get another nut from the spare parts bag as the "5. E-AXIS" bag only provides 4x M3n.

Sung Powley - Reply

M3x18 (1 pc) M3x25 (1 pc) Mind the correct orientation of cables leading from the extruder heater.
  • M3x18 (1 pc)

  • M3x25 (1 pc)

  • Mind the correct orientation of cables leading from the extruder heater.

  • Using the 2.5mm Allen key tighten both screws to mount the extruder cover on the extruder body.

  • Make sure to use the proper length of screws when mounting the extruder cover.

  • Tighten until the nozzle stops moving in the extruder, if there's still a gap between the cover and the body it's alright.

Watch the position of the cable of the extruder. You cannot rotate it anymore after the cover is on.

Jurgen B - Reply

Note with arrow on the picture to step added.

Josef Prusa -

The M3x18 bolt is not long enough to reach the second square nut (M3nS) in the nut trap. It comes about 5mm too short. Any advice?

Oswaldo Ferro - Reply

I had the same problem. Found that its not used in this step, its for step 25.

John Hole -

In step 7, I had to use two M3x25 instead of an M3x18; either that or the position of the two screws is reversed in the diagram. Otherwise, both square nuts won't catch.

Eric - Reply

You really have to use M3x18, with second M3x25 you'll make the assembly impossible or you'll destroy the printed part.

Josef Prusa -

My extruder cables came bent downward with respect to the picture shown in the instructions. In other words the extruder cables are not oriented sideways (Yes, The extruder body and nozzle are installed per instructions). Would it damage the thermocouples if I bent them back as shown in the instructions ? if so How (besides gently, I know they are just wires)?

Raul Vidal - Reply

NB: M3x18 BOLT ISN'T SUPPOSED TO REACH THE FURTHER AWAY SQUARE NUT. Already mentioned here, but I still managed to get confused and use a wrong, longer bolt.

So don't bother inserting the second square bolt at this stage, it's guaranteed to fall out between here and step 25

Innes MacKenzie - Reply

Note: if you have the latest extruder cover piece that is used for the PINDA mounting (not pictured in the current set of instructions). You will want to place 2 square nuts (from spares) into the PINDA mount prior to this assembly step. This will make things easier once you get to steps 18-20 for the PINDA installation.

S Miller - Reply

Press the pulley on the motor. If you're experiencing trouble, loose the grub screw a bit.
  • Press the pulley on the motor.

  • If you're experiencing trouble, loose the grub screw a bit.

  • Note the correct orientation (the screw has to be closer to the motor).

  • Don't tighten the pulley at the moment, we have still time for that.

just a few grammar catches.

1. Change "loose" to "loosen"

2. Change to "We still have time for that". "Still time" might be misconstrued as something related to moonshine making.. .:-)

3. Change grub screw to allen screw.

Kevin Smith - Reply

I would add a spare set-screw, mine stripped out rather easy. just a thought.

Scott Preston - Reply

M3x30 screws (2 pcs) Mount the motor on the the extruder body as shown in the picture, double check proper orientation of the motor cables. Tighten the motor screws gently.
  • M3x30 screws (2 pcs)

  • Mount the motor on the the extruder body as shown in the picture, double check proper orientation of the motor cables.

  • Tighten the motor screws gently.

  • Don't forget to have the idler in place (the screw has to go through it).

  • Mind the correct orientation of motor cables.

Now I am confused. Should I add the idler now? Text says nothing, but images show it.

Edit: Text says use 2 screws, but you need 3, stared myself blind at that, otherwise all good.

Simon Lodal - Reply

Yeah, it would be good to mention the idler but the third screw doesn't come into play until step 25 (not affixed to the extruder assembly until step 28).

Ross Stenersen -

needs something to say add the extra printed piece in

John Cummings - Reply

Cables spelt cabels

John Cummings - Reply

Cables is spelled wrong on the last warning sentence.

Peter Jakab - Reply

Thanks... Fixed :)

Josef Prusa -

The teflon tube sticks out more on my assembly, almost touching the gear. Should I have pushed the teflon further into the hot end?

Tim Hawkey - Reply

My gear rubbed against the extruder body. The top (above the Teflon tube) has a 45 degree angle, but below the Teflon tube (where the pulley is does not, so the pulley rubs against the body. I filed about 1mm of plastic off of the bottom and now the pulley does not rub.

Dave Hoogerwerf - Reply

I find this step a little hard to follow. Can you clarify what instruction corresponds to what part using the colors please?

Aden McKinley - Reply

Same issue as Dave above. The gear rubbed against the extruder body at the apex of the 45 degree pyramid. In doing a magnified close up it just looks like excess material on the 3D part that you may have to shave off. I pulled out the extruder heater to do this so not to damage the teflon tube.

Kevin Smith - Reply

update to my previous... I ended up leaving the heated extruder in place while carving out the excess on the pyramid. Removing it looked to tricky and risk of breaking the printed part.

Kevin Smith - Reply

Using the 1.5mm Allen key tighten the pulley. Make sure that the part with smaller diameter is perfectly aligned with the nozzle entrance. Use a piece of filament to align the pulley with the openings for the filament (see the picture).
  • Using the 1.5mm Allen key tighten the pulley.

  • Make sure that the part with smaller diameter is perfectly aligned with the nozzle entrance.

  • Use a piece of filament to align the pulley with the openings for the filament (see the picture).

You can easily check if the alignment is perfect by putting the 1.5mm hex spanner through the hole on the top, up the nozzle intake. The spanner should pass the pulley in the center of the thinner piece of it.

Jimmy van der Burgt - Reply

+1 I did the same and it worked really well.

Kevin Hawke -

I just used a piece of filament to check it. Don't want to risk nicking the inside of the nozzle with the metal tool.

Tom Capon -

Agree with Tom - using some filament to align the extruder gear is much less risky.

Steve Rands -

i used an allen key to align it as there is a hole above and the ptfe tub sticks out just far enough to hold it in place, I have pics showing how I did it, but dont know how to upload them

Robert T Loewen - Reply

Be careful with that set / allen screw when you tighten. It is fragile and will round out with over pressure. Mine is on the edge and I won't know whether it holds until I fire it up for a test, otherwise I may need to order a new set screw.

Kevin Smith - Reply

The same happened to me. I just removed the damaged grub screw and cut a new one from a M3 screw with my dremel. Then I made a cut so that I could use the flat head screwdriver in place of the Allen key. Worked like a charm.

Paolo Gaiardelli -

  • Using the 1.5mm Allen key tighten the pulley. Make sure that the part with smaller diameter is perfectly aligned with the nozzle entrance. Use a piece of filament to align the pulley with the openings for the filament.

  • Video is available in an online (digital) version only.

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Place the M3nS square nuts (2 pcs)  into the traps  of the extruder body. Place the M3nS square nuts (2 pcs)  into the traps  of the extruder body.
  • Place the M3nS square nuts (2 pcs) into the traps of the extruder body.

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5x16sh shaft M5w washer (2 pcs) 625 bearing (1 pc)
  • 5x16sh shaft

  • M5w washer (2 pcs)

  • 625 bearing (1 pc)

  • Place the washers and bearing on the shaft as shown in the picture.

  • Place the shaft with bearing into the idler.

  • Check the shaft is pressed all the way in!

I am upgrading from a MK1 which has the original 3mm extruder. I don't think I have the 5x16sh shaft. Am I wrong? I'll try and make something else work.

Anyone else?

Bob Smith - Reply

5x16sh shaft should be reused from MK1

Josef Prusa -

Where can I find a "5x16sh shaft"

Eric Waterstreet - Reply

you could cut a M5 screw. 16 is the length

Andreas Engkvist -

The one in my kit was printed. If you aren't assembling your first printer, you could make one pretty quickly.

Robert Wallace - Reply

The shaft goes into the bearing very tightly. I had to press it against the table to make it go in. I was worried not to break the bearing but it was OK.

Avi Schwartz - Reply

Is this idler supposed to spin freely? It is very tightly in there. Very hard to move with finger

Patryk Walters - Reply

did you find out if it being that tight was ok ?

Justin - Reply

M3x40 screw (2 pcs)
  • M3x40 screw (2 pcs)

  • M3w washer (4 pcs)

  • Extruder spring (2 pcs)

  • Assemble the screws as shown in the picture.

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Screw the extruder screws into the extruder body using the 2.5 mm Allen key as shown in the picture.
  • Screw the extruder screws into the extruder body using the 2.5 mm Allen key as shown in the picture.

  • Length of the springs should be circa 13 mm when tightened.

  • It is alright to tighten the screws with higher force, we need to induce pressure on the idler.

Thanks for specifying the length of the springs, great improvement from the instructions for mk1

Lamps - Reply

Hi, in step 13 is the recommended length of 13mm including the head of the bolt, or just the spring part?

Paul - Reply

Looks like it's just the length of the springs (after compression).

Kevin Hawke -

@ Paul: Just the springs!

If you plan to print PETG (Prusa kind) a length of 13.5 mm works good here

manuel - Reply

Is it really meant that adjusting the spring to 13 mm will cause the bearing to be locked against the motor pully and the wire inlet??? does not make sense... and I did double check myself regarding the M3*40 screw...

Danny Schwartz - Reply

Same for me and I can open the idler only for about 1mm, using a lot of force.

Dan Ovidiu Toma -

I also have this issue. I finished the assembly and it does print but I am not sure if it is creating any issues. Would be great to hear whether this is expected or not.

Paul Arden -

I talked to the slack group and they mention their's is locked too. I think it is expected. Would be nice to mention as to not freak people out.

Chris Bishop -

Make sure the idler bearing shaft is fully set in the opening double check to see that the idler bearing is flat against extruter motor pully

Carl W Swanson - Reply

Definitely would be good to know if it is really supposed to slam agains the motor pulley. I also have the problem of it pressuring against the pyramid where the teflon tube is. This is because of excess printed material of that piece that I have to shave down. I don;t want to mess up the bearing going to 13 MM and ruin something. Maybe adjusting it later base on a real print test should help establish where it should be.

Update: I ran a 3 inch length of PLA through the hole and between the shaft and bearing and then adjusted to 13MM which now makes sense since the material pushed the bearing back up.

Kevin Smith - Reply

5015 print fan M3x20 screws (2 pcs) Screw the fan on to the extruder using the 2.5 mm Allen key as shown in the picture.
  • 5015 print fan

  • M3x20 screws (2 pcs)

  • Screw the fan on to the extruder using the 2.5 mm Allen key as shown in the picture.

  • Do not tight fully at this moment, fan should just be secured in place.

  • Front fan is in the box 2.3.4.5.SUP

The screw that goes in at the top left of the fan image can only reach the nut inside when it was placed deep enough earlier. That is very difficult to do. There is room enough for a longer bolt, so maybe easier when a 25mm or 30mm is used here.

Jurgen B - Reply

The combination of the embedded nuts and the top left screw of the print fan is an extremely poorly designed part of this kit. It's next to impossible to get the screw into the nuts to hold the fan on.

Perplumblewintz Jonz - Reply

Main thing is to get the nut all the way down to the nut trap as described in step 5 then it's super easy to do.

Josef Prusa - Reply

Yeah, that didn't work well. There was no amount of holding, pounding that nut in there deeply enough without a small reamer. I had to shave off 2-3mm from the fan mounting point so as to seat the bolt deep enough to grab the nut. It would be far easier to use a longer bolt and remove the problem, especially as there is no risk of overtravel.

Curtis N Bingham -

With the current kit I had no problems getting the nuts seated deeply enough. I had a few minutes of confusion when I saw that the wires on my build appeared to be oriented in a different direction from the photos, and wondered if I'd seated the extruded incorrectly. It appears that you've bent the wires out 90degrees. Might be worth a short comment stating such.

Scott Taschler - Reply

It's official--I have completely exhausted my entire repertoire of swear words. I've been working all day trying to get the blower assembly mounted, and it is like herding cats. The square nuts keep falling out, and the nuts inside the trap turn sideways every time I try to get the blower bolt threaded. I think I'm going to have to drill into the side of the trap so that I can get in there with something to hold the nuts in place long enough to get them started. GRRrrrrr.

John Atkinson - Reply

this was really hard to do, the top screw wouldn't go into the nut underneath, I had to keep taking things apart

John Cummings - Reply

Had no problems with this step, maybe they redesigned? Used the described method of tapping the nuts into place, screwed right into place no problem. Having said that, there is an access hole on the opposite side of the part. If your nut keeps sliding out, try sticking one of the allen wrenches into the opposite side to hold the nut as your tighten the screw.

zach maxwell - Reply

Think Zach is correct and there was a redesign, I also had no issue with this step. Not sure what the heck that fan's gonna cool, since the back of it facing the extruder has no vent, just solid plastic. Forging ahead though, having faith in Mr. Prusa as he has not yet let me down!

Craig Caudle -

Craig, this fan is to cool off the printed plastic on the bed. Pretty clever using one with the duct already built in.

Tom Capon -

If the worst thing happens and the top fan screw will not attach because the nut on the inside was not hammered all the way down in step 6, you can simply remove the extruder cover using the top two screws and re-insert the nut.

Then to save frustration, attach the fan to the cover using the top screw but twisted 20 degrees clockwise to allow you access to re-attach the extruder cover once the fan is attached to it. Once you have re-attached the cover, you can then twist the fan back and screw in the bottom fan screw.

Stephen Eddy - Reply

Just push a long bolt up from the bottom to re-seat the nut. Set it against your table to keep the pressure to allow the top bolt to catch.

Brandon Dewberry - Reply

I too did not seat the top left nut deep enough in the hole at first. My solution was to thread a nut onto the 20mm screw, then thread the screw down into the too-deep inside nut. Then I used pliers to turn the outside nut clockwise, using the screw to jack the inside nut up toward the surface. Worked like a charm, no disassembly or hammering required. (Jan '17 kit)

Tom Capon - Reply

I simply used longer screw 25-30mm as Jurgen sugested

Rafael - Reply

January 2017 kit, 20mm bolt, no problem.

Frank Hubbard - Reply

I did just like Brandon technique (push that nut with a long bolt from counter side to keep proper position) and got well.

takashi ufugushiku - Reply

This part is a joke if you can't get the nut down far enough (I couldn't). Just used a longer screw after an hour of stupid frustration.

Chris Bishop - Reply

Got longer screw as suggested earlier and saved the time, printed pieces just don't cut it - excellent learning experience just putting this together. Glad I didn't buy the fully assembled one!

Mohamed Enein - Reply

Couldn't reach the fan mount nut with the 20mm bolt near the motor, so I borrowed a 25mm, tightened it to pull the nut up, and then replaced it with the original 20mm which could now reach.

Jesse and Eli - Reply

You didn't follow the assembly exactly - top nut in extruder cover needs to be pushed all the way down!

Josef Prusa -

simple tap with the spanner did the trick took twomins to resolve once I realised you MUST gently knock as far as it will go!! Step 6 isnt a tip it's mandatory.

A VEDADIPOUR - Reply

worst step ever ! :D

Romina - Reply

I had no problem, as I had already pulled the nut into place (screw in from the fan side, rather than tapping from the other side) before mounting the fan. I think the 18mm vs 20mm screws are too close in length. Instructions should make more effort to distinguish, or just use only 20mm if possible.

Bruce Crowder - Reply

I had to use 25mm screw for second screw

Fabian Toth - Reply

ok, DO NOT use longer screws, use the shorter screws as instructed - yes they don't quite fit for now - what they neglected to mention is that in later steps you will need to use that space for complete assembly. Had to take the whole thing apart again and start over.

Fabian Toth - Reply

I spent waaaaay too much time on that one screw. At least 30 min. My solution was to use the longer screw to tighten it up, then swap it out with the original screw. Worked perfect.

John P O'Brien - Reply

I too had not put the nut in far enough - maybe add a comment to that step that tells you how far it needs to go. I went for the Tom Capon solution - with the fan removed, wind the 20mm screw on. then use pliers below the head of the screw to lever it and the nut up. use this approach to get the nut high enough and you're good. painful, but not a huge timewaster

James Heath - Reply

Fan nozzle M3x20 screw (1 pc) Tighten the fan nozzle using the 2.5 mm Allen key. Gently tighten screws holding up the fan in place.
  • Fan nozzle

  • M3x20 screw (1 pc)

  • Tighten the fan nozzle using the 2.5 mm Allen key. Gently tighten screws holding up the fan in place.

  • Double check that the fan can rotate freely.

I think an 18mm M3 should be used here? Not 20mm

Patrik Rosen - Reply

20mm is correct. Thanks for thinking about it :)

Josef Prusa -

I think this would fit better if the thin left side of the fan nozzle had a notch to account for fan's latch.

Li Cai - Reply

Agreed, I have the newer orange part. Took an exact to it to notch out for the bit on the fan that sticks out so that the cover would fit flush.

Greg -

It would be better if you precised that the fan nozzle could also be orange (here or at the beginning). I was confused for a moment and thought I had lost it.

Trak Johnson - Reply

The hole was too tight for me to start the screw into the body of the holder. I had to open up its leading edge with an Xacto knife to get the screw started. Might be good to relieve the edge a bit (countersink) on the print of the body.

Anthony - Reply

I tapped the first half of the hole M3 x 0.5, leaving the last half untapped for friction to retain the screw. This made assembly smooth.

Frank Hubbard - Reply

In the latest kit, the piece is an upgraded orange design. Looked for a black piece for awhile till I realized.

Timothy Lee Russell - Reply

Dude Thanks. =^)

Daniel Naas -

Make sure that you haven't tightened the fan screws yet, otherwise you will find it difficult to mount the fan nozzle.

Nic Hollinworth - Reply

Wish I would have read that first - this is a very good comment. The previous step does say to just secure it in place not to tighten it down, but my fan didn't have any give on it so when I tried to install the part it wouldn't line up and I broke it. Luckily though I have another printer so I just printed another part, but great advice make sure the fan is loose enough to move around when trying to get this part on.

Daniel Lipsky -

I have the orange version of the shroud. I had to cut a small tap off the fan, else it would not have fitted over.

This was not because the fan was tighten/not tighten down, the fan could not move any further back, since it hits the extruder stepper.

Marcus B - Reply

I also had to trim of a small tab from the fan for it to fit the orange part!

James - Reply

I didn't have to trim off the tiny fan tab, the new orange part seems to account for it. The key for me was to leave the fan mounted slightly loose to the it adjusts to the part.

Kemp Brown -

Comment from Nic Hollinworth was the most helpful - many thanks. Perfect fit using this method. Hole was not lining up until I loosened the fan a bit, attached the orange nozzle, and then re-tightening the fan. I think something similar to Nic's comment should be put in the instructions.

Sung Powley - Reply

Fan nozzle download link please

salvador gonzalez garcia - Reply

Prepare P.I.N.D.A. probe (autocalibration) by removing one of the nuts.
  • Prepare P.I.N.D.A. probe (autocalibration) by removing one of the nuts.

ummm...my probe has no nuts on it... Digging through the spare bag, wish me luck... ;-/

Jake M - Reply

So after looking at it for a bit it looks like the slot the probe goes into (on the printed part) is different than what is in the picture. rather than using the nuts to secure the probe you use 2 screws to clamp it in place. The doco should reflect this.

Jake M - Reply

With this update (that I mentioned above), there are a couple of steps that are needed that are different/not in the below steps....

* 2x square nuts need to be inserted below the probe slot before step 7 above

* 2x screws to secure probe (M3x10 ?)

Jake M - Reply

Jake. I found the same problem and used your solution. Then I realized this document is the MK2 kit manual, but I am assembling an MK2S kit. Sure enough the MK2S kit manual has these steps correctly described for the MK2S.

Joe Foley - Reply

I don't see any PINDA nut in the package!

Dzuy - Reply

Guide both cables trough cable clip on the extruder body as shown in the picture.
  • Guide both cables trough cable clip on the extruder body as shown in the picture.

Through spelt as trough

John Cummings - Reply

Just some feedack on the cable clip: the cables slip out very easily. Maybe make the clip opening smaller or put a hook that will keep the cables in place?

Kevin Hawke - Reply

agreed.. this clip does not secure the cable as it sits too high. Maybe the diameter of the Pinda cable got thinner?

Kevin Smith - Reply

Mount P.I.N.D.A. probe in place. Secure P.I.N.D.A. probe with nut. Exact position of P.I.N.D.A. probe will be adjusted later (during the printer calibration described in 3D Printing Handbook), so there is no need to adjust or tighten fully at this point.
  • Mount P.I.N.D.A. probe in place.

  • Secure P.I.N.D.A. probe with nut.

  • Exact position of P.I.N.D.A. probe will be adjusted later (during the printer calibration described in 3D Printing Handbook), so there is no need to adjust or tighten fully at this point.

  • The best position for mounting at this point is to align the end of the probe with the end of the hook on the extruder body.

  • Note the loop on cable from probe, it's necessary to do it like that!

Exact position of P.I.N.D.A. probe will be adjusted later where is that located in the manual ?

Steve - Reply

9. Preflight check

Step 1 — Quick guide for your first prints.

5.3.6.1 - Probe alignment.

Martin Forsberg -

"Exact position of P.I.N.D.A. probe will be adjusted later ... so there is no need to adjust or tighten fully at this point."

This is true, but please do remember to tighten it later as stated in 6.3.5 of the current 3D Printing Handbook pdf. I had a moment of panic when the nut fell off in the middle of my first print. But batman still printed okay.

Ed Souza -

WARNING! You need to make this part very clear - if you wait until after calibration to adjust the sensor height, you'll be in trouble. Please update these instructions to indicate the proper height, or your printer will permanently gouge the PEI just like mine did.

BC - Reply

I followed the guide for alignment of the PINDA , but what is unclear from documentation is what it is used for and what the alignment should be:

- equal to the print nozzle: to measure distant to board

- above nozzle so it cannot touch printed material.

- below the nozzle to protect the nozzle touch the print bed.

Jurgen B - Reply

The probe should be a little higher than the nozzle.

If the probe is lower than the nozzle, then the nozzle can't reach the print bed and you wont be able to print, plus the probe will knock into the print as the head moves around. If the probe is too high above the nozzle though, the calibration will push the nozzle into the heat bed causing damage. It's a very fine line. My probe is about 1mm higher than the nozzle.

If in doubt, place the probe 'too low' and adjust later.

Mike -

I agree with updating the language to say something like "Important, make the PINDA probe sensing tip level with the extruder tip". When I ran the Self Test at startup, when the test went to check the PINDA it rammed the extruder into the printbed because I had the PINDA sitting too high (wasn't worried about it because the instructions said we'd set the correct height later).

Marten Hutchison - Reply

My nozzle also rammed the print bed and damaged the PEI due to the probe being mounted too high. I advise you mount the probe a bit lower than shown. Just be sure that the tip of the probe is above the nozzle, otherwise the probe will scrape the bed.

Mike Thiesen - Reply

How do you mount the probe with the updated mounting peace I.e. the length of bolt and what type of nut

Justin -

Ugh.. mine too... the instructions at this point seem a but vague but I am searching. I did the self test and was going good until Z test and it started to ram the bed and I shut it off

Kevin Smith - Reply

The bracket for the probe has been completely redesigned to be beefier (kit arrived March 2017), these instructions need to be updated. It looks like you're not supposed to use the nuts that come with the probe at all now, there are holes for two screws with captured nuts to tension it into place (which seem to be missing from the kit but thankfully there is the spares bag) .

James Thrush - Reply

My printer arrived 1st week of March, and can't utilize both the nuts due to the thicker PINDA housing. Used 2x M3 screws to secure it, but not sure if I am still supposed to use the bottom nut?

Zane Ross -

+1 instructions are amazing but need clarification - I'm going with 1 nut 1 screw ...

Matthew Stark -

Instructions for the new PINDA holder as far as I can guess: Take off both of the probe nuts. Use two square nuts from the spares bag in the nut traps and two M3x12 screws to secure it. I had to pry open the relief cut to get the probe in at first. Slide the probe in and add the probe nut to the end closest to the bed. that way you can loosen the screws and twist the probe nut to adjust the height of the probe. This part does seem easier than adjusting a nut on each side of the holder as you had to with the older part.

Jason Spencer - Reply

Instructions are out of date now - my PINDA holder only has one screw, and it requires a square nut to be dropped into the piece before the extruder assembly is screwed together around the extruder. I got to PINDA mounting and had to partially disassemble the housing to get the nut in.

Nick - Reply

M3x18 screws (4 pcs) Note the correct orientation of the fan. The sticker has to face towards the nozzle!
  • M3x18 screws (4 pcs)

  • Note the correct orientation of the fan. The sticker has to face towards the nozzle!

  • Guide cables from the extruder motor via slot in the extruder body, put the fan in place.

  • Using M3x18 screws mount the fan to the extruder body using the 2.5mm Allen key as shown in the picture.

  • Left fan is in the box 2.3.4.5.SUP

Pictures show the fan wires going into the slot with the motor wires. Think twice before doing this! Starting the fan wire at this point in the slot forces it around several sharp corners. Both my fan wires failed after 48 hours of printing because the bends were too tight. You can leave the extruder fan out of the wire slot until you get to the X carriage, then have it enter the slot then.

Tom Capon - Reply

I found it useful to tap the screw holes into the extruder body.

Dietmar Jurgensen - Reply

Tighten fan screws gently using the 2.5 mm Allen key.
  • Tighten fan screws gently using the 2.5 mm Allen key.

Add Comment

M3x40 screws (1 pc)
  • M3x40 screws (1 pc)

  • M3x30 screw (1 pc)

  • M3x18 screw (1 pc)

  • Pay attention to use proper screws as indicated in the picture.

You should offer an instruction manual for these guys, that build a kit including the multi-color upgrade:

If you're build a new kit with multi color-upgrade use the M3x10 screw as replacement instead of M3x40 at the blue marker in the upper right corner

the other two screws are already right.

Follow the instructions to have a look at the cable management of the upgrade version.

Later be prepared connecting the multiplexer with the separate stepper motors

Heiko Schultz - Reply

I've had to drill the holes for the screw heads at 5.5mm so the heads would go deep enough for the screws to get some purchase on the nuts at the back. Especially with the M3x18 screw. Maybe the screw head holes could be printed ever so slightly wider so they would just fall in?

Mathieu Davy - Reply

I have the same problem, I have to drill, the hole for the m3x18 (Actually I use m3x20 from the spare), m3x18 will not reach

Rafael -

Same problem with the screws not going deep enough for the nuts. It's amazing how many holes I've had to bore out and scrape away or drill.... Joseph, take note.

Justin - Reply

I was determined not to replace a screw with an "improper" one. But the M3x20 screw fits WAY better here. So frustrating Prusa.

Justin -

I had issues with the M3x18 screw as well not catching on the M3nS nut that you put in all the way back at Step 3 (also, perhaps should have waited to insert this nut until now as I didn't know what it was going to be for).

The screw wouldn't catch on the nut properly. I was going to revert to the M3x20 screw from the spares but after taking the nut out (it just falls out if you tip up the frame) and inserting the screw, you can see it sticking out in to the hole where the nut is placed. So, I put a little bit of folded paper behind the nut (so that it pushes the nut against the side where the screw comes in), put in the screw (which now did catch the nut properly) tightened a bit and then pulled out the paper afterwards.

Stephen B - Reply

Tip: If the M3x18 screw will not reach the square nut: Use the pointy end of one of the small zipties as a shim to push the square nut against the side from which the screw enters.

Marcus B - Reply

Guide cables from the extruder as in the picture.
  • Guide cables from the extruder as in the picture.

  • Cables from P.I.N.D.A. probe, extruder motor and both fans must pass X-axis between lower smooth rod and X-axis belt.

Add Comment

Arrange cables from the extruder upper part neatly in extruder cable holders. Ensure the cables are placed in the channel behind left fan, otherwise there is a risk of breaking them (see photo with blue arrows). Ensure the cables are placed in the channel behind left fan, otherwise there is a risk of breaking them (see photo with blue arrows).
  • Arrange cables from the extruder upper part neatly in extruder cable holders.

  • Ensure the cables are placed in the channel behind left fan, otherwise there is a risk of breaking them (see photo with blue arrows).

Hello Joseph,

You need an extra picture or two here to show that the motor wires run in a channel (groove) on the right side of the illustration.

When I did not realize the channel was available, the extruder would not reach the end limit switch due to wires running on the surface.

I also made a small break in the plastic to allow the fan wires to enter the wire channel to keep them out of harms way.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Watt - Reply

This was a tricky step - should probably add instruction to loosely mount extruder to holder using top bolt only. This will give play so you can position the cables correctly. After cables are generally in place, then mount the lower bolts and tighten the top bolt. Also, could use more detail/picture of extruder being positioned correctly to mate with holder.

Anthony - Reply

There are sharp corners on the inside of the wire slots in the X carriage. It is at these corners that my fan wires broke after 48 hours of printing. I suggest sanding down the corners, and then being very light on the zip ties (or not zip tying the spiral wrap so close to the head).

Tom Capon - Reply

Seem to be missing the instruction to actually mount the extruder. Goes straight from having it unattached to moving the cables. Should add a photo/step for this.

Tom Chambers - Reply

I was just noticing that too.

Daniel Naas -

I did not noticed the groove in the plastic behind the fan. The wires were awkwardly pressed between both parts. An extra picture could be nice:)

Charlie Leroy - Reply

The square M3nS nut for the M3x18 screw should be moved here instead. it fell out into shag carpet every step since step 3.

James Slater - Reply

Completely agree. No reason to be fighting with it until now

Scott Waun -

yeah, there was really no need to insert it until now, as a matter of fact I used a M3 screw to keep it in place all the time.

Paolo Gaiardelli -

Mounting the extruder seems obvious but not spelled out so adding that would be good. Remember that hook that does not really hook the Pinda wires in step 22? Now I see how it is closed up now and wires go through this. I mounted the extruder successfully first shot but will have to undo to channel the Pinda and fan wires on the left side through this hook. A note in the instruction would be valuable here.

Kevin Smith - Reply

Also a note should be added about the slotting of the motor wires on the right as they need to bend down from the extruder body to fit into the slot of the receiving side and then angle another 90 degrees to the right. I opted to have the small fan motor rotated to avoid that more fragile wire from being routed in the channel and subject to 90 degree angles. Instead the fan was mounted -90 degrees so that fan wire can be free and just go through the X-Axis wire slot. This was part of a previous step warning from another user but pointing it all out here seemed appropriate.

Kevin Smith - Reply

I would have had an easier time with this step 1) if the slot on the x-axis mount (the fan wires go through it before they go through the slot) was mentioned, 2) if I had made sure to thread the left wires with the fan wire first then the PINDA wire (the fan wire fell out of the slot until I did this) and 3) if I had help so there was one hand on one side of the extruder, one hand on the other side running the allen wrench (hex spanner) and a third hand to nudge the wires into place and keep them there until everything was tightened down.

Marianne Davis - Reply

Tighten the extruder in place using 2.5 mm Allen key.
  • Tighten the extruder in place using 2.5 mm Allen key.

Having a hard time getting the 30mm screw to tighten, it's not grabbing onto anything for some reason.

Justin bartholomewbale - Reply

I have the same problem, did you solve it?

Carit Rasmussen -

Same issue with the M30 not biting on anything. If for some ungodly reason I ever do this again, I WILL have a 2.5 mm driver. I despise Allen wrenches :P

Craig Caudle - Reply

I've had to drill the holes for the screw heads at 5.5mm so the heads would go deep enough for the screws to get some purchase on the nuts at the back. Especially with the M3x18 screw. Maybe the screw head holes could be printed ever so slightly wider so they would just fall in?

Mathieu Davy - Reply

Same problem and resolution for me - had to enlarge the holes before the screw heads would fit.

Dana Wolfe - Reply

My M3x30 screw doesn't seem to want to hold on to anything.... then I read some comment on step 5 that said to put 2 nutes in the top right. I had to take everything apart and do that making sure to push the second nut all the way in in the same shaft. However, the M3x30 was still too short and couldn't reach it so I had to use a M3x40 to pull the nut closer toward the back side of the printer then insert the M3x30. Seems like other people have the same issue with the M3x30 - this step is definitely not clear.

Alex Huang - Reply

I verified first that the left screw can get to the nut location by pushing it in all the way and I found that the M3x18 indeed reaches deep enough. Then I inserted the nut and looked through the screw hole that it is positioned correctly. It was not. It was slightly to the left of where it was supposed to be to align perfectly with the screw. I ended up holding the nut in place with one of the Allen ranches while screwing in the screw. It caught with no problem. I think what happens is that there is a bit too much play in the nut slot so unless it is perfectly positioned the shorter screw doesn't catch.

Avi Schwartz - Reply

This worked for me...thanks!

Ed Souza -

I used the tip of a zip tie to keep the square nut in place and pushed towards the screw

Paolo Gaiardelli -

Like others, I had issues with the 30mm screw not catching the nut. I unmounted the extruder, and then used a 20mm screw to catch the nut and pull it up into the trap, like George suggested in step 6. After that, the 30mm caught fine.

Trevor Vannoy - Reply

My M30 screw was also not catching so I used a M3x40 screw from the spares bag to catch the nut, then I used the plyers to pull the screw and the nut closer. Then the M30 screw fit fine after a couple times.

James - Reply

This is where you want to make sure your square bolt is in place if you left it out from the previous steps or it may have fallen out while manipulating the extruder during assembly. FYI I didn't seem to have any issues with the M30 screw.

Daniel Lipsky - Reply

Take the piece of filament that came with the parts (NYLON Ø 3 mm, about 50 cm long).
  • Take the piece of filament that came with the parts (NYLON Ø 3 mm, about 50 cm long).

  • Push it all the way down. If you experience difficulties when inserting the filament use pliers to make a sharp tip on the filament.

  • The filament is for the support of the whole harness. Don't cut it, it'll go all the way with the wires to the electronics.

My MK2 upgrade kit didn't come with this 50cm piece of 3mm filament and the directions didn't say to keep it when disassembling. :(

DiddyWolf - Reply

my Nylon thread was only about 30cm and I had to shave it off a bit with a knife to fit the hole.

Sven Engelhardt - Reply

Looking at the pictures further down I believe they mean eithe 500mm or 550mm.

Greg Swindle - Reply

Wondering what this while 50cm filament is for? We'll keep it there permanently?

Tokiwadai - Reply

as I see it now, yes. It's going to be permanent, as a semi-rigid guide for the cables. It totally makes sense.

Paolo Gaiardelli -

Nylon filament insertion: How far is all the way down? I can insert the filament about 25 mm, but it is loose and easily comes out again.

Jerry Koniecki - Reply

My piece of nylon is also only 30 cm long, and I can't get it further than a centimeter ot two in, even with a sharpened tip - and it is very hard to pull out. I also believe that more precision on this step would be needed.

Trak Johnson - Reply

Just found out there are 2 pieces of filament: one 50cm long and one 30 cm long.

Trak Johnson -

Had no Nylon, not 50 not 30 cm. :(

Thank god for the grass line trimmer that has just the dia...

Danny Schwartz - Reply

I also didn't receive any nylon filament. One of the very helpful people at PRUSA said I could use 50 cm (~20 in) of the 1.75mm PLA filament that came with the kit in place of the 3mm nylon filament if I wrapped tape around the 1.75mm filament to make it fit snug in the hole that the nylon filament was supposed to go into. This solution worked quite well for me.

John Anderson - Reply

any 3mm grass line trimmer filament will do, in case one has problems

Paolo Gaiardelli -

Just double check and see if you have two filaments. I didn't check the length and when I was doing the filament for the heat bed I realized I had put in the wrong filament in this operation.

Carl W Swanson - Reply

My 3mm, 30cm long filement only goes in (literally) like 2 or 3 mms. No amount of sharpening or forcing will allow more in.

Kemp Brown - Reply

FYI my nylon was orange and it may be best to say here (use the longest one). Similar to the rod comments from previous steps, may help people not get the wrong nylon installed.

Daniel Lipsky - Reply

You should have two 3mm-thick lengths of filament, one longer than the other. (Both of mine were orange.) Use the shorter of the two here. These filaments are only used for structural support for the wire bundle, so don't worry if the end doesn't plug very far into the extruder assembly. Don't cut/trim either of them (at least not yet). Hope this helps!

Kemp Brown - Reply

My kit had two orange strands and you should likely use the longer one, not the shorter one. The 50CM is 20 inches and matches the length of the wire wrap you will use in subsequent steps. As was mentioned this just provides stability in the wire wrap, great idea.

Kevin Smith - Reply

yeah, so does mine. It slid in without problems, looks like the part was practically perfect in this respect. I didn't use any of there filaments to center the extruder gear, just one of the small allen keys (see step #10)

Paolo Gaiardelli -

Insert ziptie (longer one in package) in the right side of  the X-carriage so that cables from the extruder motor and the fan are below ziptie and held in place. Double check the orientation of the ziptie.
  • Insert ziptie (longer one in package) in the right side of the X-carriage so that cables from the extruder motor and the fan are below ziptie and held in place.

  • Double check the orientation of the ziptie.

If you are having trouble getting the wires behind the zip tie - first make sure that the zip tie "nubs" from the bearings are pushed down like in the picture. Then put the zip tie in part ways and use the pliers to pull it in front of the wires then push the zip tie into the hole at the bottom.

Daniel Lipsky - Reply

If you have a connector on the thermistor cable, this option is for you. If you don't, go for OPTION2. Guide the cables from the nozzle as shown in the picture. While handling the thermistor with the connector, make sure that it's still connected!
  • If you have a connector on the thermistor cable, this option is for you. If you don't, go for OPTION2.

  • Guide the cables from the nozzle as shown in the picture.

  • While handling the thermistor with the connector, make sure that it's still connected!

It would be better if there was a clip/locking mechanism to keep this connector from detaching. After the bed calibration, i manage to start the Fire Safety alarm! I'm glad that i've updated the firmware as first thing, otherwise instead of a nice beep at 3am and spinning fans, I would have a melted extrusion block!

The connector was just slightly pulled out after i was flipping on the side the printer to square the axis. Well done in improving the emergency procedure!

Daniele Malinconi - Reply

As well, while the first couple of prints were fine (around 40min each), the third bigger one (4h~) stopped in the middle with THERMAL RUNAWAY error. The thermistor connection loosened itself again, letting the temperature to fall and triggering the error. I secured the connection with a few drops of cyanoacrylate. Btw would be amazing to be able to "forcefully" recover the print after a thermal runaway error. Like a manual confirmation message saying that "I fixed the problem", just to avoid to throw away a perfectly going long print

Daniele Malinconi - Reply

I just had the THERMAL RUNAWAY error about 30 minutes into an ABS print. I used thread to tie the connector together from end to end. Started the print again, and had the THERMAL RUNAWAY error happen again at about the same point in the print. Thread was still intact. I've started another shorter ABS print (PINDA protector) without making any repairs this time and it seems to be going OK. This seems odd to have the same problem at the same spot in the print, and for the printer to seem fine to print again with no repair. PINDA protector just finished without error. Now I'm going to restart the larger print again.

JP Timmerman - Reply

Solved: My Cura profile for ABS had the print cooling fan on. ABS prints fine with it off. No THERMAL RUNAWAY errors anymore.

JP Timmerman - Reply

Guide the cables as shown in the picture. Make sure that the wires from the thermistor are going above the heater wires. Running them below will cause issues later, don't do that!
  • Guide the cables as shown in the picture.

  • Make sure that the wires from the thermistor are going above the heater wires.

  • Running them below will cause issues later, don't do that!

The thermistor wire is cable tied to the heater wires towards the back (nearer the nozzle) in my kit from Feb but looks like that is removed in the photo or did not come that way. Should I remove this cable tie so it is loose and free?. Maybe the assembler cable tied all three instead of just the two heater wires? Can somebody comment on this?

Kevin Smith - Reply

I see in step 33 that it does say that you can cut this cable tie that has the thermistor and heater wires.. I did and this receive undue pressure in trying to route them. Good to mention it in this step in case you didn't read ahead.

Kevin Smith - Reply

Revert a ziptie below hot end cables and guide the ziptie up on the left side of the X-carriage. If you have troubles guiding the cables from hotend, you can cut out the ziptie holding them together. Cables from P.I.N.D.A.  probe and the print fan must be located under the ziptie to keep them in place.
  • Revert a ziptie below hot end cables and guide the ziptie up on the left side of the X-carriage.

  • If you have troubles guiding the cables from hotend, you can cut out the ziptie holding them together.

  • Cables from P.I.N.D.A. probe and the print fan must be located under the ziptie to keep them in place.

  • Cables from the nozzle heater are fragile, handle them with extra care!

WARNING: the small cables from the hotend are VERY fragile. You're better off cutting the cable ties holding that bundle of cables together (as shown, but not explained) before trying to fit them into the slot and tightening the cable tie.

Perplumblewintz Jonz - Reply

Thanks for note! Warning added to step.

Josef Prusa -

Adding the warning (to cut wire bundle) to a step before the extruder is mounted would be nice.

Li Cai - Reply

with pictures will be nice too.

Tokiwadai -

Posted the question re. the heated cable wire management here: http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-k...

Tokiwadai - Reply

I have found out today that the way the zip tie holds the P.I.N.D.A. probe cable in place it will cause the wire to get kinked, or crease, after a long time of use. My P.I.N.D.A. probe now turns off and on depending on the movement of the print head due to the wire being damaged and prevents it from getting through the bed mesh leveling.

Anthony Gideon - Reply

Première petite difficulté avec cette option2.

les gaines rouges contiennent des cosses de raccordement qui rendent cette partie rigide

et il est difficile de faire passer les câbles comme indiqué.

Roland Franclet - Reply

Once all cables are neatly arranged  finalize it by tightening the ziptie and cutting off the excessive piece. Once all cables are neatly arranged  finalize it by tightening the ziptie and cutting off the excessive piece. Once all cables are neatly arranged  finalize it by tightening the ziptie and cutting off the excessive piece.
  • Once all cables are neatly arranged finalize it by tightening the ziptie and cutting off the excessive piece.

hi wondering if this is okay that the 2 hot-end cables (in blue) the end part that connect to the extruder got bended/ folded? it's the metal-wire one. i have the pictures, but not sure if i can upload it here.

Tokiwadai - Reply

Use a ziptie to secure cables and filament together. The ziptie must be as close as possible to the X-carriage in order not to interfere with the printer frame. The ziptie must be as close as possible to the X-carriage in order not to interfere with the printer frame.
  • Use a ziptie to secure cables and filament together.

  • The ziptie must be as close as possible to the X-carriage in order not to interfere with the printer frame.

I find the cables touch the frame before the limit switch clicks. Don't know if that's going to be a problem yet. The frame could probably have a notch taken out of it without problems...

Innes MacKenzie - Reply

I was concerned about how close to the frame the zip tie head was, when the x carriage was moved all the way to the side. I found success in rotating the zip tie 180 deg. so the end was on the lower left. This also allowed me to make the zip more snug to the extruder frame.

Kevin Hawke - Reply

Thanks for the tip, that works well.

Greg -

yeah, I had to use your tip too. It's just a tiny fraction of a mm, but the zip tie head hits the frame. With your tip everything works

Paolo Gaiardelli -

I also had to rotate this zip tie, it was preventing the carriage from hitting the limit switch.

Tom Capon - Reply

Note: only the upper cables here, NOT heater an thermistor.

Jyri Saastamoinen - Reply

Almost did that myself - the instructions should probably state ziptie the upper wires together with the filament to specify that only those wires get zipped together here.

Daniel Lipsky -

I have found that this zip-tie is a point of failure - it provides a sharp-ish edge for the wires to wear against. After 6 months of moderate use, I have had to repair the following: one PINDA wire (1 of 4 inside the sleeve), one part cooling fan wire, two extruder motor wires. All had breaks where the wires were held in place by this looping zip-tie. All four wires failed within 2 weeks of each other. I have replaced that zip-tie with a double loop of nylon wire-lacing tape - not something most folks have, I admit. The wires are still held tightly in place, but the tape has a much softer edge.

Robert Wallace - Reply

Correction to my post - 3 wires inside the PINDA cable sleeve, not 4. I replaced a section of all three wires just to be sure I got the intermittent one.

Robert Wallace -

Prevents rare damage to the probe when a print accidentally lifts up. If you do not have this part, download and print it from http://www.prusa3d.com/printable-parts and mount it later. Screw in the P.I.N.D.A. protector on the probe. Make sure that the end of the probe is in line with the protector as shown in the picture.
  • Prevents rare damage to the probe when a print accidentally lifts up. If you do not have this part, download and print it from http://www.prusa3d.com/printable-parts and mount it later.

  • Screw in the P.I.N.D.A. protector on the probe.

  • Make sure that the end of the probe is in line with the protector as shown in the picture.

The file for the Pinda protector is different when printed compared to these instructions. It is not threaded and how do you make it stay in place as the only place it will stay is just up above the black tip?

Peter Hull - Reply

Had the same problem. The GCODE as well as the STL both don't seem to have the right inner dimension/thread to stay on.

Oliver - Reply

Same Problem here, GCODE and STL doesn't fit.

Defined in Protector STL is an inner diameter of 8.5, PINDA Thread outer diameter is 8.

Armin - Reply

First print from ABS after building the printer and success! The inner diameter tolerance could definitely be a little tighter but it seems to stay on for me...I printed it out of clear ABS. Looks nice.

Timothy Lee Russell - Reply

I had the same problem. I had to print it with a scale of 97% and it fit perfectlly.

Ehler - Reply

I just printed one out of Nylon Bridge. It fits perfectly fine.

N Pereira - Reply

Wrap the spiral wrap (the largest and the longest one) around the cables.
  • Wrap the spiral wrap (the largest and the longest one) around the cables.

  • Take nylon with upper cables (both fans, motor, P.I.N.D.A.) and make 1 turn with spiral wrap around them, then add remaining cables and continue with wrapping. (see the picture)

  • Double check by moving the extruder fully to the left or right that spiral wrap does not interfere with the printer frame.

This step should specify which spiral wrap to use.

Perplumblewintz Jonz - Reply

Note added, thanks for noticing !

Josef Prusa -

When the X carriage is moved to the left and hits the end stop, the cables are right on the frame. Maybe a cut-out on the frame would be useful.

Also the wires from the small fan would not stay in their slot, so I used some blue tack to hold them in place. Pity I did not have orange "blue" tack.

Howard Watkins - Reply

If the left and right "columns" of the printer frame were a few millimeters thinner, we wouldn't have to worry about the spiral wrap, zip tie or wires hitting it

Tim Fou -

And if they do interfere with the printer frame? I fixed it by putting another cable tie behind the first one and then cutting the first one off

John Cummings - Reply

Its important to start the warp roughly 1 cm from the carriage, so only the cables could touch the frame. As they are more flexible than the wrap it should work but its thight anyways... Also be sure that no zipti is oriented the wrong way!

manuel - Reply

Use zipties and tighten the wrapped cables and spiral wrap.
  • Use zipties and tighten the wrapped cables and spiral wrap.

  • Use one piece at the beginning of the spiral wrap, second one just after join of all cables.

  • Tighten zip ties carefully, too much pressure can damage cables inside!

My extruder and heated bed cables were interferring, screwing up the Y-axis on large prints

http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvemen...

I added an additional cable tie to pull the extruder bundle up, and held the cable bundle up as I wrapped it, so that it runs uphill from the extruder, keeping it clear of the print bed, and keeping it clear of the heated bed cable. So far, this change appears to have resolved my problems with the Y-axis losing its position

Chris Shaker - Reply

Check free movement of the X-carriage and inspect cables in the full left or right position. Once satisfied with organisation of extruder cables finalize spiral wrap to the full length.
  • Check free movement of the X-carriage and inspect cables in the full left or right position.

  • Once satisfied with organisation of extruder cables finalize spiral wrap to the full length.

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Congratulations! You've just assembled the extruder.
  • Congratulations! You've just assembled the extruder.

  • You can continue by assembling the LCD in the next chapter - 6. LCD assembly

A part le step 33 option 2 pour la conformation des câbles de l'extrudeur, pas de grosse difficulté.

Temps passé sur le montage de l'extrudeur: 1h 30'.

Roland Franclet - Reply

Finish Line

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Josef Prusa

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12 Comments

When will the stl files be released ?

Yommy Rawr - Reply

Step 3. One hex nut is a loose fit in its tunnel. Maybe I should have attached it to a bolt and lightly hammered it home. I had to take the extruder apart (twice!) and hold the nut in place with Blue tack.

Howard Watkins - Reply

Step 3

The hex nut is a loose fit in its tunnel. Maybe I should have hammered it home (assuming the tunnel is tapered) but did not think of that at the time. I had to take the extruder apart (twice!) and hold the nut in place with Blue Tack.

Howard Watkins - Reply

When mounting the extruder to the X axis I had a problem where the nut above the probe for the M3x18 screw wouldn't catch. I had to wedge an eyeglass screw driver behind it to get it to line up with the screw.

Mitch Allen - Reply

The X carriage does not run smooth. I have to hold down the frame and push the extruder hard to move it. I have lubricated the rods but it didn't help. What should I do now?

Retel Tulio - Reply

You have over-tightened the belt (yep, it can be TOO tight). I did the same thing first time around. Loosen the belt on one loop by 2 or 3 teeth overlap. If you operate with over-tightened X-belt, you will also get slipping on rapid x motion that will cause your prints to go awry.

Benjamin Huygir -

I have to say, I am quite disappointed in the quality of the 3d printed components. The nuts refused to fit in their 'traps' and I ended up breaking the fan cover trying to install it. I think this kit would be a lot easier and more enjoyable to assemble if you tightened the tolerances a bit. Either way, I plan on replacing some of these components with machined acetal once the stl files become available.

Good work on the printer otherwise.

Naushil - Reply

By far the most difficult assembly. Really need to take your time and study each step. Pictures and instructions could be a bit clearer for these instructions.

Chris Yahnker - Reply

Here's the links again that I posted at the end of the last chapter:

Hey Josef and everyone else, I documented my experience with figuring out how to build this and put it into separate videos for each chapter. I'll post the appropriate video links in the comments as I think this could help others if they get stuck, and it can definitely help Josef get an understanding of what went well and what did not for a complete rookie with no knowledge of 3D printing during the assembly.

Hopefully this doesn't get flagged :)

Chapter 2: Y-axis assembly: https://youtu.be/rn5sd3P0JLo

Chapter 3: X-axis assembly: https://youtu.be/wa4Us6Och4c

Chapter 4: Z-axis assembly: https://youtu.be/2c3aLKzhmfs

Chapter 5: Extruder assembly: https://youtu.be/GriVVWuBRBk

Chapter 6: LCD assembly: https://youtu.be/MM5mq08KZHI

Chapter 7: PSU & Heatbed assembly: https://youtu.be/2InxHeDymxo

Chapter 8: Electronics assembly: https://youtu.be/UrsNxx_Dfao

Chapter 9: Preflight check: https://youtu.be/00AmUbQVaUI

Enjoy!

Darian

Darian Grant - Reply

I keep having X/Y Skewed issues when calibrating. I have looked at the troubleshooting steps, but not luck fixing it. Going to check out your videos to see if I can glean any ideas to fix it. Thanks.

Zane Ross -

This section, 5. Extruder Assembly, took 1-hour 15-minutes. As a note, the Extruder Body has been modified from what is shown in the Assembly Instructions manual and online manual. The P.I.N.D.A. Probe is secured to the NEW Extruder Body by removing the two nuts on the P.I.N.D.A. Probe, insert the P.I.N.D.A. Probe into the Hole located on the Extruder Body, then from your Spares Bag, insert two M3nS nuts in the Extruder Body and two M3x12 Screws to secure the P.I.N.D.A. Probe.The two large nuts removed from the P.I.N.D.A. Probe are now excess.

Todd McDermaid - Reply

Took 1 hour 50 due to a couple of rebuilds needed for missed nut and another poorly oriented nut.

Andrew Purcell - Reply

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