Image 1/1: Needle-nose pliers
  • 2 and 2.5 mm hex spanner

  • Needle-nose pliers

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Image 1/1: Heatbed cable cover
  • Spool holder

  • Heatbed cable cover

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Image 1/1: 12V/240W Power supply with cover
  • M4x10 with dome head (2 pcs)

  • 12V/240W Power supply with cover

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Image 1/1:
  • Using 2.5mm hex spanner, tie the PSU to the frame.

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Image 1/2: M3w washers (2 pcs) Image 2/2: M3n nuts (2 pcs)
  • M3x18 screws (2 pcs)

  • M3w washers (2 pcs)

  • M3n nuts (2 pcs)

  • Insert M3n nuts in PSU-Y-part nut traps.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Using 2.5mm hex spanner, tie the PSU-Y-part to the PSU-cover.

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Image 1/2: Tie the low voltage power cables to the threaded rod. Image 2/2: Do not tie them too much, otherwise you can damage cable insulation.
  • Guide the low voltage cables from the PSU under the threaded rods to the other side of the frame as shown in the picture.

  • Tie the low voltage power cables to the threaded rod.

  • Do not tie them too much, otherwise you can damage cable insulation.

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Image 1/2: Make sure that the power supply is not connected to mains! Image 2/2: Correct position means that the switch is on the side with your mains voltage. (If you have 110/120 V mains [mostly America] the switch has to be on the left, if you have 220/230 V [Europe and the rest of the world] the switch should be on the right ).
  • Check the switch position on the side of the PSU if it's in correct position.

  • Make sure that the power supply is not connected to mains!

  • Correct position means that the switch is on the side with your mains voltage. (If you have 110/120 V mains [mostly America] the switch has to be on the left, if you have 220/230 V [Europe and the rest of the world] the switch should be on the right ).

  • You can change the switch position with flathead screwdriver.

  • This is very important part, if the power supply is configured incorrectly it can be damaged!

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Image 1/1: Remove the M3 nuts highlighted in the picture.
  • If you assembled the optional nuts on the Y-belt holder screws, you have to remove them.

  • Remove the M3 nuts highlighted in the picture.

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Image 1/1: Heatbed comes with the print surface (yellowish foil) already sticked on so DO NOT REMOVE IT and take extra care to prevent damaging the surface.
  • M3x8r screws (4 pcs)

  • Heatbed comes with the print surface (yellowish foil) already sticked on so DO NOT REMOVE IT and take extra care to prevent damaging the surface.

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Image 1/2: Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken! Image 2/2: Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!
  • Using 2mm hex spanner, tie the heatbed to the Y-carriage.

  • Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!

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Image 1/2: Make sure that the screws are screwed into the heatbed and no space is left between the nut on the heatbed and the Y-carriage. Image 2/2: Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!
  • Tighten the Y-belt holder to the heatbed using the supplied 2.5 mm spanner.

  • Make sure that the screws are screwed into the heatbed and no space is left between the nut on the heatbed and the Y-carriage.

  • Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!

  • If you have the Y-belt-holder with a slot, make sure that the screws are in the middle as shown in the picture.

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Image 1/1: M3 nut (1 pcs)
  • M3x8r screw (1 pc)

  • M3 nut (1 pcs)

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Image 1/1:
  • Insert M3n nut in place.

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Image 1/1: Push it all the way down in the filament holder hole in the heat bed cable cover. If you experience difficulties when inserting the filament use pliers to make a sharp tip on the filament.
  • Take the piece of filament that came with the parts ( length cca 30 cm ).

  • Push it all the way down in the filament holder hole in the heat bed cable cover. If you experience difficulties when inserting the filament use pliers to make a sharp tip on the filament.

  • The filament is for whole harness support. Don't cut it, it'll go all the way with the wires to the electronics.

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Image 1/1:
  • Tighten the part to the heatbed using 2 mm spanner.

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Image 1/2: DO NOT cut the filament, you'll need the full length. Image 2/2: DO NOT cut the filament, you'll need the full length.
  • Use the spiral wrap and wrap the cables from the heatbed.

  • DO NOT cut the filament, you'll need the full length.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide spiral wrap into the holder in the heatbed cable cover and secure it in place using a ziptie.

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Image 1/2: If they are not in parallel position, use 17 mm wrench to adjust the M10 nuts to get it correct. Image 2/2: This is extremely important, if the things are not in parallel, you'll have huge troubles calibrating later on!
  • Take a look on the printer from the top side and make sure that lines on heatbed are perfectly parallel with the X axis rods as shown in the picture.

  • If they are not in parallel position, use 17 mm wrench to adjust the M10 nuts to get it correct.

  • This is extremely important, if the things are not in parallel, you'll have huge troubles calibrating later on!

  • If you'll adjust the nuts, make sure that the M10 threaded rod is all the way down in the slot.

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Image 1/1: Almost there! You're one step before finish! Continue by connecting the electronics in the next chapter -  [guide|110]
  • Assemble the Spool-holders to the top of the frame as shown in the picture.

  • Almost there! You're one step before finish! Continue by connecting the electronics in the next chapter - 8. Electronics assembly

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Finish Line

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Josef Prusa

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