Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in. Move the extruder manually all the way to the left. By rotating BOTH threaded rods at the same time on the Z-axis move the nozzle until you reach the heatbed. Try rotating both the rods equally!
  • Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in.

  • Move the extruder manually all the way to the left.

  • By rotating BOTH threaded rods at the same time on the Z-axis move the nozzle until you reach the heatbed. Try rotating both the rods equally!

  • Check again from a different angle the nozzle is touching slightly the heatbed. Don't bend the heatbed!

  • Adjust the probe directly on the heatbed without the steel sheet.

I think this step should specify that the Spring Steel Bed should NOT be attached. Thanks!

Ocie Ward - Reply

Hi Ocie, thanks for the suggestion. Until now, there was no indication in the manual to apply the steel sheet. Also in the pictures you can see there is no steel sheet on the heatbed. Follow the calibration process and you will be asked to place the sheet on the heatbed.

Jakub Dolezal -

A good reason to mention the Steel Bed is for when people will refer back to the manual If they need to perform this adjustment again once the printer is assembled or if/when they add on the MMU. People will not go through the entire manual to look up one section about adjustment procedures.

James Slater - Reply

Hi James, description updated. Thanks

Jakub Dolezal -

Perhaps first add: Ensure the Pinda probe is above the nozzle level (loosen the screw if necessary) - we will make the final adjustment later.

Andreas Sjolund - Reply

Yes, that is needed indeed.

Levent Alpsal -

Andreas, good point. Thanks ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

All of the suggestions should be added. I bought my Prusa assembled, but my Z is off after doing a firmware update. So don’t assume someone read the pages before this one as I was directed to this page to determine the PINDA adjustment. I wasn’t directed to read the chapter before this.

greg mesh - Reply

Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right. Make sure that the nozzle is not scratching the surface during the movement! If it does, rise the right side of the X-axis by rotating the right Z motor slightly clockwise.
  • Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right.

  • Make sure that the nozzle is not scratching the surface during the movement! If it does, rise the right side of the X-axis by rotating the right Z motor slightly clockwise.

  • If an adjustment is needed, you can lower the nozzle height by rotating the right Z motor counter-clockwise.

Why not use a piece of printer paper under the nozzle (and the zip tie later)? When you move the nozzle in X it should be low enough to drag the paper along but you should be able to hold it in place without the nozzle making marks or tearing the paper.

Hans Nygaard - Reply

Hi Hans, for this step you need to ensure the X-axis is levelled. That is why you’re asked to check the distance nozzle-heatbed on both edges of the heatbed. Paper can be used, but it is an extra, you will be ok without it for now.

Jakub Dolezal -

One way to make sure you’re not scratching the bed is to slightly lift the right side by rotating the leadscrew back a bit. Then move the extruder to the right side and lower it until it touches the bed. Then start moving horizontally. My opinion is that this step should be designed in such a way to avoid this eye-balling the nozzle touching the bed… that’s not a very precise way to it.

Florian Ford - Reply

Move the extruder to the centre of the X-axis. Take a zip tie from the package and place it under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Use the middle part of the zip tie, not the tip. Release the screw holding the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and gently press it against the zip tie.
  • Move the extruder to the centre of the X-axis.

  • Take a zip tie from the package and place it under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Use the middle part of the zip tie, not the tip.

  • Release the screw holding the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and gently press it against the zip tie.

  • Tighten the screw on the P.I.N.D.A. holder again.

  • !!! DO NOT use glue to fix P.I.N.D.A. probe in the new type of holder with the M3 screw, you won't be able to release it again !!!

  • A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the last picture.

There are no zip ties in the spare parts package. But there are plenty left in the zip tie bag, so i used one of them.

Michael Stegen - Reply

Hi Michael, step description updated ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

I actually damaged my PEI surface on my mk2s build because of this recommendation to use a zip tie as a spacer/measuring tool. The same won't happen here since you do the initial calibration without the steel sheet installed (could be worse here if you did manage to crash the nozzle into the pcb though), but I would still suggest going by the 3rd image showing a front perspective of the relative gaps and just setting the position visually.

Steven Underwood - Reply

Always err on the side of caution. ITs better to have the pinda closer to the bed than higher. Too high, it will crash into the bed and ruin your day. You can always easy up on it later if you have to use a lot of negative Live Z adjustment to get your filament to stick.

Joe Bruno - Reply

On my Mk2, I measured the Zip tie and came up with 0.975mm when the recommended height was 1.2mm. Because of a slight bed warping, that caused my first print calibration to continually fail, I backed off the height over that point (right rear) to 1.0 mm and I was able to calibrate and print.

James Slater - Reply

How hard I need to turn the points screw? I did not tighten it to hard but the plastic holder banded and I’m afraid it will break in future.

יוסי שלי - Reply

Hi, the screw should be tightened so the probe doesn’t move. No need to overtighten the screw as you might break the printed part.

Jakub Dolezal -

So, now that the P.I.N.D.A. is set to the correct hight, what is next exactly? Should the Z-axis be moved up again or can the selftest be started with the Z-axis in the lowest position? Perhaps it should actually be in this position for the selftest to work? Missing a bit of detail here I’m afraid.

Jeroen - Reply

Hi Jeroen, regarding the next step, see the video (Step 4) and follow the 3D Handbook. As for now there is no need to adjust the Z-axis manually ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

I used one of the pieces of excess length trimmed from a zip tie.

Bruce Moore - Reply

Are we to assume that the nozzle is touching the pcb during this step or is it just slightly above? Could we do the step of pinda probe height with a piece of paper underneath to protect the nozzle/pcb from getting damaged?

Since the paper would go under both the pinda and the nozzle it wouldn’t affect the adjustment.

Matty vee - Reply

Hmmm… I have the spring steel sheet that magnetically attaches to the heated bed. Don’t you need to add that before doing the calibration adjustments??

Mr Cookie - Reply

Hi Mr Cookie, for now please do not use the spring steel sheet, follow the manual ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Had problems adjusting the P.IN.D.A. It was tight in its holder even with the screw released so I had to twist it so that the threads on its body would lower it. Fortunately I left enough lead free at the P.IN.D.A. end so it was able to coil up as the P.IN.D.A screwed down. If this is a common problem either a reworking on the P.IN.D.A mount’s tolerances or a simpler change the photo of the preliminary positioning of the P.IN.D.A. in section 5 the E-Axis should show the P.IN.D.A. in a lower nominal position.

Martin Wolfe - Reply

I had a simliar issue. the P.I.N.D.A. mount is tight enough that even without the screw I can’t push it down without turning the actual sensor to screw it further in.

Chris Schmitz -

I am amending my previous comment slightly as I had the extruder in the wrong position. However the P.IN.D.A mount / body interface needs to reworked. Perhaps a collet around the P.IN.D.A. so that it can slide up and down freely when the adjustment screw is loosened.

Martin Wolfe - Reply

Instead of this sentence which is vague as to what the last picture is: “A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the last picture. “ Label one of the pictures and call it out specifically” such as “A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the picture ‘Correct PINDA Height’ “

greg mesh - Reply

Hi Greg, “correct PINDA height” is not the same for all printers. This device has certain range of sensitivity and each unit is therefore slightly different. That is why you need to go through calibration process .

Jakub Dolezal -

Please watch our New User Guide before printing. http://www.prusa3d.com/buildvideoMK3

While we’re waiting for the video to be available, maybe add a step that says, in text, “1) plug in your printer 2) select language 3) run the calibration wizard”

Zaz - Reply

Hi Zaz, video is almost finished. Joe will take you through the new features and first run including calibration using Wizard.

Jakub Dolezal -

I’m not sure where to add this, as it came up during the self-test during the pre-flight test. I managed to not connect (or dis-connect) the Extruder moter inside the EINSY box. The self-test didn’t catch it, and I was confused when the extruder wouldn’t function when loading the filament.

Additionally, I think the filament sensor was off by default. Might want to mention that or switch it on by default.

Joey Gil - Reply

See our free 3D Printing Handbook - https://www.prusa3d.com/3dhandbookMK3 Read the chapters 3.2 Disclaimer and 3.3 Safety instructions
  • See our free 3D Printing Handbook - https://www.prusa3d.com/3dhandbookMK3

  • Read the chapters 3.2 Disclaimer and 3.3 Safety instructions

  • Read the chapter 6.3 Setup before printing.

  • Download and install the drivers - chapter 9 Printer drivers. Don't forget we have ready to print settings for Slic3r PE.

  • Calibrate the printer by following the chapter 6.3.1 Calibration flow and wizard. Please follow the steps exactly, otherwise you can permanently damage the print surface!

Assuming the PEI sheet goes on before the self test????

Scott - Reply

Hi Scott follow the instructions in the Handbook, you will be asked to place the sheet on the heatbed.

Jakub Dolezal -

The self test should instruct you to add and remove the PEI sheet at the proper moments, and wait for confirmation before proceeding. At least that is what happened on NullZero’s stream.

Zaz - Reply

Hi Zaz, please proceed according to the Handbook and Wizard in the printer’s menu.

Jakub Dolezal -

Read the chapter 7 Printing of 3D Printing Handbook.
  • Read the chapter 7 Printing of 3D Printing Handbook.

  • Congratulations! You should be ready to print by now ;-)

  • You can start by printing some of our test objects bundled on the included SD card - you can check them out here prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models

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If you encounter any problems at all, don't forget you can always check out our knowledge base at http://help.prusa3d.com. We're adding new topics every day!
  • If you encounter any problems at all, don't forget you can always check out our knowledge base at http://help.prusa3d.com. We're adding new topics every day!

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If you need help with the build, check out our forum with great community :-)

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Finish Line

69 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

54,760 Reputation

114 Guides authored

7 Comments

Thanks so much for the fantastic instructions, they are part of what make the experience top notch!

Steven Underwood - Reply

Hola:

genial la guía!!

Me gusto mucho montar la impresora.

Vi que siempre están superándose y estudiándolo todo a fondo. Seguramente estarán estudiando como mejorar la conducción del cableado. Es lo ultimo que se estudia (pero es que lo demás esta TAN BIEN), pero cuando llegas al cableado empiezas a ver que se aflojo en la terminación.

Felicitaciones y gracias por tanta calidad y esmero

Sebastián González Pacín

sebastián - Reply

Hola Sebastián,

Muchas gracias por tu comentario. Esperamos que disfrutes nuestro producto ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

All in all, I don’t think I would have been able to complete this build without such a great guide. The only thing i could even remotely think of as an improvement would be some other way to distinguish arrows, as some folks who are colorblind may not be able to tell certain colors apart.

Zachary Goyer - Reply

Hi Zachary, thank you for your feedback :) I've already adjusted Chapter 8 to be easier to read in case you can't distinguish between colours. Are there any other parts of the manual, which should be changed as well?

Jakub Dolezal -

Overall, a great guide. Thank you so much to the author for all the time and effort into making it. It must have been a good guide because my MK3 passed all self-tests, is calibrated, and is now printing out a happy little tree frog. All my gummy bears are also gone, so it is time for a beer. Cheers!

Brian Cramer - Reply

Hi Brian, thanks you and I’m glad the guide was helpful during your build. Enjoy the printer ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

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