Before you start, keep in mind that you're going to work near elements which has more than 200'C
  • Before you start, keep in mind that you're going to work near elements which has more than 200'C

  • Be extremely careful, otherwise you can burn yourself

  • If you want to leave the nozzle heated all the time (NOT RECOMMENDED), be even more careful and try not to burn the cables from extruder motor and other stuff

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Preheat the nozzle to 240'C Unscrew the nozzle with pliers (or better with 7 mm spanner) while holding the heater block with 17 mm spanner
  • Preheat the nozzle to 240'C

  • Unscrew the nozzle with pliers (or better with 7 mm spanner) while holding the heater block with 17 mm spanner

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Unscrew the nozzle tip completely
  • Unscrew the nozzle tip completely

  • It's recommended to turn off the heating. But it's not necessary.

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Using 2.5 mm hex spanner unscrew all four screws (M3x18 mm) holding the nozzle fan Using 2.5 mm hex spanner unscrew all four screws (M3x18 mm) holding the nozzle fan
  • Using 2.5 mm hex spanner unscrew all four screws (M3x18 mm) holding the nozzle fan

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Using 2.5 mm hex spanner, unscrew two screws ( M3x40 mm ) holding the extruder on the x-carriage Using 2.5 mm hex spanner, unscrew two screws ( M3x40 mm ) holding the extruder on the x-carriage Using 2.5 mm hex spanner, unscrew two screws ( M3x40 mm ) holding the extruder on the x-carriage
  • Using 2.5 mm hex spanner, unscrew two screws ( M3x40 mm ) holding the extruder on the x-carriage

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Using 2.5 mm hex spanner unscrew following screws: M3x40 mm holding the idler (try not to shake off all those springs a washers :) ) M3x30 mm holding the extruder motor
  • Using 2.5 mm hex spanner unscrew following screws:

  • M3x40 mm holding the idler (try not to shake off all those springs a washers :) )

  • M3x30 mm holding the extruder motor

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Remove plastic parts from nozzle Remove plastic parts from nozzle
  • Remove plastic parts from nozzle

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Grab the heater block with pliers and unscrew the nozzle body
  • Grab the heater block with pliers and unscrew the nozzle body

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Grab the PTFE tube with pliers Using your nail push the black ring
  • Grab the PTFE tube with pliers

  • Using your nail push the black ring

  • Extract the PTFE tube from the nozzle body

  • It may need some force, so don't worry to use some

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Insert the new PTFE tube to the nozzle body The PTFE tube should be released around 2 mm on the other end
  • Insert the new PTFE tube to the nozzle body

  • The PTFE tube should be released around 2 mm on the other end

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Hold the other end of the PTFE tube
  • Hold the other end of the PTFE tube

  • Using a blade, cut the PTFE tube

  • It's critical that the cut has to be perfectly perpendicular and straight

The MK2S heatsink end does not look like this. There is not place for the teflon tube to come out of the end. I presume it is required to simple push the teflon tube in as far as it will go?

Chris Lloyd - Reply

Hi Chris, yes just push the tube in and no cutting need. Newer version of the manual is in the works.

Jakub Dolezal -

Using the blade, scrap the degraded filament from the face of the nozzle tip Screw the nozzle back to the heater block (from the dirty side) as deep as you can Unscrew the nozzle tip by 1/4 to 1/2 turn
  • Using the blade, scrap the degraded filament from the face of the nozzle tip

  • Screw the nozzle back to the heater block (from the dirty side) as deep as you can

  • Unscrew the nozzle tip by 1/4 to 1/2 turn

  • Unscrewing the nozzle tip is critical! Don't forget that!

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Screw the nozzle body to the heater block as deep as you can Be careful when screwing the nozzle body, it's good to hold the nozzle tip to prevent its movement
  • Screw the nozzle body to the heater block as deep as you can

  • Be careful when screwing the nozzle body, it's good to hold the nozzle tip to prevent its movement

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Use your nails to keep the black ring as far from nozzle as possible
  • Use your nails to keep the black ring as far from nozzle as possible

  • Press the PTFE tube in the nozzle body as possible

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Tighten the nozzle tip as much as possible If you turned off the nozzle heating, heat the nozzle back to 240 'C
  • Tighten the nozzle tip as much as possible

  • If you turned off the nozzle heating, heat the nozzle back to 240 'C

Add Comment

Put the printed parts on the nozzle It's recommended to turn off the heating. But it's not necessary.
  • Put the printed parts on the nozzle

  • It's recommended to turn off the heating. But it's not necessary.

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Use blade and cut the PTFE tube as shown on picture PTFE tube should be aligned with the edge of the printed part
  • Use blade and cut the PTFE tube as shown on picture

  • PTFE tube should be aligned with the edge of the printed part

Add Comment

It's extremely critical to be careful here! Don't allow to fall any part of cut PTFE inside the nozzle! Use a blade and cut the edges inside the PTFE tube as shown in picture
  • It's extremely critical to be careful here! Don't allow to fall any part of cut PTFE inside the nozzle!

  • Use a blade and cut the edges inside the PTFE tube as shown in picture

  • Best way how to do that is by inserting the blade inside the tube and rotating the blade several times

Add Comment

Place the printed parts with idler back on the nozzle
  • Place the printed parts with idler back on the nozzle

  • Don' forget to correct orientation (Cables from the nozzle should face towards the part with visible motor screws and Idler bearing should be visible as shown in picture )

  • Use M3x30 mm screws and mount the motor on the printed parts (Cables from motor should face towards the nozzle)

Add Comment

Using M3x40 mm screws, mount the extruder back on the printer
  • Using M3x40 mm screws, mount the extruder back on the printer

Add Comment

Using M3x18 mm screws, mount the fan back on the extruder
  • Using M3x18 mm screws, mount the fan back on the extruder

  • Don't forget to guide the cables from motor through the cutout above the fan

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Place and tighten the M3x40 mm screws with springs and washers in the extruder idler
  • Place and tighten the M3x40 mm screws with springs and washers in the extruder idler

Add Comment

Load the filament and you're ready to print again!
  • Load the filament and you're ready to print again!

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Finish Line

7 other people completed this guide.

Josef Prusa

Member since: 01/05/2015

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7 Comments

What would the indicators of a bad PTFE Tube be? Are there any specific PTFE tubing that Prusa recommends?

Les DeFoor - Reply

Hello :)

One of the first indicators is a motor skip during printing, over time temperature is affected too. As the tube deteriorates, the force needed to extrude is increased and so the printer will need a higher temperature to print successfully.

We recommend that you keep using E3D PTFE tubing, as found here: http://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Tubing-1.75...

Prusa 3D Watchdog -

Hello Josef ,

This is coca from ptfe tube manufacture in china Dongguan Suniu Electronics Co., Ltd , we profession produce the ptfe tube for 3D printer , also we can make the tube with groove . hope to can to be your supply .

We use 100% virgin material for quality PTFE tube / FEP /PFA

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sales Manager: coca Skype: suniulana

Dongguan Suniu Electronics Co., Ltd

English Website : www.ptfetube.co

Alibaba website : suniu.en.alibaba.com

Chinese Website : www.suniuptfe.com

Office : (0086) 0769 81818075 Fax : (0086) 0769 81369005

Cell: (0086) 15817328510

coca - Reply

Shame that the postage on the prusa teflon tube is over £8 for a £0.65 product.

Chris Lloyd - Reply

Hi Chris,

we are trying to get cheaper shipping options, but it will take some time to negotiate. If you are living in UK, please order from E3D as they are supplier of our hotends.

https://e3d-online.com/bowden-tubing-1-7...

You need to cut the tube yourself, but it is quite easy.

If you have MK2/S use this manual: How to trim PTFE tube - MK2/S (Single extruder)

If you have MK2/S Multi Material use this manual: How to trim PTFE tube - Multi Material

Let me know, if you have more questions ;)

Jakub

Jakub Dolezal -

Hi,

The process here doesn’t work for the MK2S because of the differences in the extruder head. I had to use along with this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmmfh2An...

But both were not quite correct and so i had to do a few bits without guidance. I would suggest the process needs updating.

Took 2 hours overall

Thanks

Chris

Chris Lloyd - Reply

Hi Chris, yes this manual will be updated, I'm working on it.

Jakub Dolezal -

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