My filament stiffener is black, making it hard to see against the black enclosure and cable wrap, and to find the tiny accepting hole. An orange one would be better. Also, I had to unwrap and cut about 2 inches off the spiral wrap to be able to force it into the hole.
No. I had to get to step 27 to figure this out.
A better way to seat the hex nuts than hammering is to insert a screw/washer from the other side, thread the nut onto the screw, then tighten the screw to pull the hex nut into its well until you feel significant resistance. This insures the correct depth and also removes any tilt on the hex nut that might make it difficult to mate with a screw later.
It would be good to add a note that if you turn the frame over the screws should be flush with the surface--it would be easy to use a 12mm screw instead of 10mm since they are so similar (I found one this way). My screws threaded with no problems.
Don't orient the switch by wire color--mine has the button end of the microswitch attached to the white wire, not the black as the photo shows.
Because the screws are self-tapping, I found it much easier to start them (through the endstop microswitch holes) by first screwing them into the plastic a short distance (about 3-4 turns), removing them, then attaching the endstop.
Would it be a good idea to temporarily insert a rod through both bearings before tightening to insure alignment?
Garrett, great suggestion, thanks. Saved me a trip to Harbor Freight.
Somebody needs to tell the guy in the video to tighten the M8n nuts "gently" ;-)
At this point I was unsure which if any nuts needed tightening. A good statement would be that everything needs to be finger-tight because the assembly will be aligned and tightened in later steps.
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