The printer has had many good improvements, and this is one of them, however, I still think this housing (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1102368) is better than the new one for the MK2. It seems sturdier because the cables for the heated bed and extruder are really hold up in place. Maybe a downside of this housing is that it requires and awful lot of screws, probably more than needed.
Thanks for specifying the length of the springs, great improvement from the instructions for mk1
Could probably use the tightening procedure described in the z axis step 22. Use the motor to tighten. By releasing one of the screws holding it in place to that it can be closer to the idler, the tightening the belt slightly, then finish the job by positioning the emotor correctly.
The M2x12 screws are not included in the Prusa I3 MK1 neither are they in the Y-Axis bag for the upgrade kit. That means that people upgrading have to take these screws from the spare bag. Should probably not be like this.
You are going to build this printer? You go get yourself a precision screwdriver that can turn on itself and the 2.5 hex head. It'll save you literally some hours work. Something like this:
You'll probably find a cheaper one on your local warehouse.
There are changes to part 2:
The zip file containing the firmware doesn't include sources from version 2.2.1. The sources (for both addon and firmware) are now located in github, repository Prusa-i3-plus:
So in the update part 2, you should do instead:
- Make a clone of the git repo, or download as zip file (there is a button in github to do this)
- Install the addon for Arduino from the source as mentioned in part 1, if needed.
- Follow the steps mentioned in the readme for the firmware (https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-i3-Plus...). Basically, follow steps 2 and 4-7, as step 3 was covered earlier and step 1 was covered in part 1.
For me this step went wrong. The ziptie kept sliding to the centre of the heatbed and messing with the Y-axis. I fixed it by tying the cables around the m3x10 screw of that corner of the heatbed, on the outer side of the heatbed. It worked fine then, just a little bit more uncomfortable to turn the heatbed adjust knob, but okay anyway.
The z axis bottom parts have been updated right? Mine were equal and parthe housing the motor covers the whole motor circumference, has four screw holes.
I had to use a sub mm tool like the one used to measure the gap in a spark plug to really put the belt all the way in, like in the picture. 0.4 mm did the trick.