Original Prusa i3 MK2S is a successor to Original Prusa i3 MK2 with small hardware tweaks for easier assembly and improved reliability.

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Final printing problems, parts wont adhere to the hotbed

Comments related to the assembly of the Prusa 3MK2S

I have been designing and assembling electronic and electromechanical devices my entire life. The Prusa 3D printer was truly a beautifully designed device. Mechanically precise with high quality parts and online instructions that were relatively easy to follow. This kit definitely was not a beginners kit. Some level of good mechanical skill was required to understand the principle behind the device as well as the mechanics of construction. All the parts were fabricated with extreme precision with only a few minor mismatches which were easily corrected.

The comments from individuals who were in the process of assembling their scanner were extremely useful in terms of pointing out upcoming pitfalls.

I took my time, made a few easily corrected mistakes and the printer passed all of the final calibration steps.

This is where problems started. I have spent more time trying to get my first print that it took to assemble the kit. I still have not mastered the technique of getting the filament to stick to the print bed long enough to begin to develop the printed figure. I have done scrupulous cleaning with alcohol, and used the supplied glue stick to no avail.

I have run the the V2calibration.gcode endless times trying to achieve the perfect shape of the line on the print surface. I have adjusted the live adjust Z axis from positive values to greater than -1 mm. I have reset the PINDA sensor multiple times, both greater and less than the thickness of the recommended tie wrap. If the space between the nozzle and the bed is too small the nozzle will quickly snag on the printed part pulling it off the bed. If the space is too great then the filament will not adhere to the preceding layer and a massive tangle ensues.

My understanding is that the first layer should be moderately flat to give a sufficient surface for adhesion to the hotbed. The handbook mentions the Brim option in Silic3r, which remains a mystery [I cannot find this option].

When everything appears to be properly set the first few layers seem to be deposited perfectly.

Inevitably many minutes into the printing process the nozzle will snag on a piece of filament and a tangle is created that ultimately either pulls the part off of the print bed or just turns into a mass of hot PLA under the nozzle dragging back and forth across the part.

Have I missed something obvious either in the assembly or during calibration?

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I have actually performed all of the steps you suggested. I will go back through it again tonight. Failure at this stage is not an option, but is very frustrating.

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Hi Carl, if you can't solve it on your own, please contact our support at info@prusa3d.com also include a link to this discussion, so they have some history.

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I am having the same problem, though I purchased a factory calibrated machine. I can't seem to get PLA parts to consistently adhere to the heat bed. Parts with larger contact areas with the base plate seem to adhere, but parts with smaller contact areas keep breaking loose. Glue stick doesn't seem to help, and possibly makes it worse.

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Hi David, please clean the cold bed with acetone and if it doesn't help, try to adjust (lower) "Live adjust Z". You might need to squish the filament more into the heatbed.

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Hi, i had the same problem. I found 3 solutions :

- 1 : when first layer test : turn the knob to make lower the head (my personnal is -0,7 for Z axis)

-2 : clean with standard alcool (iso propyl 70%)

-3 : and the most important : glue the surface with scolar glue stick (for paper) - like uhu (included with the new mk3 kit).

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Hi Carl,

there are several things you can try/check and see if it helps with the print:

1) PINDA probe - let's start with our sensor, the initial height is set through zip tie, which is around 1.1 mm thick. Later on while calibrating and printing V2 pattern you need to live adjust the Z height in the printer's menu. For most of the printers, the value ranges between -0.300 to - 0.600 mm. The aim is to have the first layer squished enough to stick to the heatbed. My personal trick is to use a fingernail and small force, if you can move with the printed line (calibration pattern), lower the axis using the menu. Sometimes it might happen you need to move with the PINDA probe a bit lower because the "software" lowering won't help. Use the zip tie again, but this time set the height according to the tip of the zip tie, then run the calibration and use software adjusting again while printing the V2 pattern.

2) Clean heatbed - is crucial, make sure the printer is cold, spray IPA on a paper towel and clean the surface. Don't do this while the printer is hot because the alcohol will evaporate too fast and the "oily film" from your fingers and other objects will remain on the heatbed.

3) Start with regular PLA - use the PLA included in the kit and print models included on the SD card. Those are tweaked for our printer and will help you to learn the basics of 3D printing.

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The brim is additional "layer" around the first layer of your object. It is used for materials like ABS, which tend to warp during print and therefore lift from the heatbed. You have to activate it in the print settings in our Slic3r PE and set the brim width (in general 3-5 mm are enough.

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Well, I went through the whole process including all of your suggestions. It looks like the print nozzle is too high above the heat bed. Is this perhaps a software problem? Is reloading the firmware the next option?

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Hi Carl, you can try to load the latest firmware and delete all stored data, if it doesn't help, please contact our support at info@prusa3d.com. Thanks

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mal som rovnaký problém. Mne pomohlo znížiť prietok plastu na 90 % . Odvtedy je tlač v poriadku.

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Michale, zkoušel jste rady uvedené výše?

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Oh my gosh I am right there with you. This is so frustrating!! I feel like I have a $700 brick on my desk! I don't mind spending time to make sure things are adjusted but this just seems impossible!

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carl bogardus will be eternally grateful.
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