Skip to main content
  1. This guide will take you through the entire process of how to disassemble the MK3/MK2.5 extruder, replace the printed parts B6 for B7, PTFE tube and assemble the extruder back. Note that MMU2 requires different PTFE tube.
    • This guide will take you through the entire process of how to disassemble the MK3/MK2.5 extruder, replace the printed parts B6 for B7, PTFE tube and assemble the extruder back. Note that MMU2 requires different PTFE tube.

    • 3D printed extruder parts were improved in order to achieve better cooling. More information including direct comparison can be found on our Prusa Research forum.

    • This update is recommended to all MK3 and MK2.5 owners before assembling the MMU2 upgrade.

    • All necessary parts are provided by Prusa Research in the MMU2 upgrade kit.

    • Parts printed by Prusa Research for the upgraded extruder are labelled B7, same parts are available to download with label R3.

    • This kit includes spare nuts, which might be difficult to retrieve from the disassembled extruder.

    • WARNING: in case you have a custom hotend or you bought it directly from E3D, you need a special Prusa MMU heatbreak. You can purchase it on Prusa eshop or from E3D. This heatbreak is included with all MK3 and majority of MK2S printers.

    • Your printer might be already upgraded to B7/R3 parts (see the forum for parts comparison). In that case you can skip to the next chapter 1. Idler body assembly

  2. Please prepare tools for this chapter:
    • Please prepare tools for this chapter:

    • 2.5mm Allen key for M3 screws

    • 1.5 or 2mm Allen key for nut alignment

    • Needle-nose pliers for zip ties

    • Apart from the mentioned tools, it is recommended getting a bowl or small box for the screws and parts you will remove during the disassembly, you will need some of them later.

  3. Ensure the filament is not loaded in the hotend. Remove it before proceeding further. Release the marked M3 screws.
    • Ensure the filament is not loaded in the hotend. Remove it before proceeding further.

    • Release the marked M3 screws.

    • Remove the nozzle-fan printed part completely.

    • Carefully insert the Front print fan in the X-axis belt.

    • The 3D printed part nozzle-fan will be replaced with a new one.

  4. Release and remove all four M3x18 screws on the Left hotend fan. Move the fan carefully away from the extruder body as far as the cable allows. Move the extruder motor cable from the channel.
    • Release and remove all four M3x18 screws on the Left hotend fan.

    • Move the fan carefully away from the extruder body as far as the cable allows.

    • Move the extruder motor cable from the channel.

    • Release and remove both M3x25 screws, then remove carefully the extruder-cover part.

    • Your extruder and fan arrangement should look like in the last picture.

    • The extruder-cover will be replaced with a new one.

  5. Turn the printer around and cut all five zip ties on the extruder cable bundle. Be very careful while cutting!
    • Turn the printer around and cut all five zip ties on the extruder cable bundle. Be very careful while cutting!

    • Remove all five zip ties from the extruder.

  6. WARNING:  Removing hotend from the extruder needs a "special" technique, then the hotend slides out quite easily. Don't use excessive force, or you will damage some parts irreversibly!!! The hotend is removed by inclining and pulling at the same time. See the first picture showing the WRONG inclination. This hotend is inclined too much to the front and there is no gap between the hotend and the extruder body. Hotend is partly inside and you won't be able to remove it. The second picture is showing the CORRECT inclination. The hotend is tilted, but there is a gap between the hotend and the extruder body. You will be able to remove it.
    • WARNING: Removing hotend from the extruder needs a "special" technique, then the hotend slides out quite easily. Don't use excessive force, or you will damage some parts irreversibly!!!

    • The hotend is removed by inclining and pulling at the same time. See the first picture showing the WRONG inclination. This hotend is inclined too much to the front and there is no gap between the hotend and the extruder body. Hotend is partly inside and you won't be able to remove it.

    • The second picture is showing the CORRECT inclination. The hotend is tilted, but there is a gap between the hotend and the extruder body. You will be able to remove it.

    • Now, let's incline the hotend properly. Take pliers in the second hand, grab the hotend above heatsink's ribs, pull downwards and slightly towards you. The hotend should "jump" out. Make sure you don't stretch the cables too much or you might damage them.

  7. New PTFE tube is needed for MMU2 upgrade. Before you remove the PTFE tube, check the heaterblock. In case there is a green dot, the PTFE tube is MMU2 compatible and there is no need to change it.
    • New PTFE tube is needed for MMU2 upgrade.

    • Before you remove the PTFE tube, check the heaterblock. In case there is a green dot, the PTFE tube is MMU2 compatible and there is no need to change it.

    • Press the black plastic collet.

    • Remove the PTFE tube from the hotend.

    • Throw this old tube immediately to the nearest trash bin to avoid installing it back by accident ;)

  8. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • PTFE tube 4x1.85x50 (1x)

    • New PTFE tube is in the bag nr. 3.

    • There is an extra spare PTFE tube.

  9. Now it is time to insert the new PTFE tube. Note there are two different ends. One end of the tube has "rounded" outer edge. This end must be inside the hotend.
    • Now it is time to insert the new PTFE tube. Note there are two different ends.

    • One end of the tube has "rounded" outer edge. This end must be inside the hotend.

    • Look at the other end, where the tube is drilled inside, shape of the edge is "conical". This is the side, where filament enters the tube. This part must be outside the hotend.

    • Push the black collet in. Slide the tube all the way in and hold it!

    • Using second hand pull the collet out and only then release the tube!!! THIS IS CRUCIAL for the hotend to work properly.

  10. Carefully push the unlock locking tab (safety pin) and unplug the filament sensor cable connector. Release all five M3x10 screws, you can leave them in the printed part.
    • Carefully push the unlock locking tab (safety pin) and unplug the filament sensor cable connector.

    • Release all five M3x10 screws, you can leave them in the printed part.

    • Make sure there are no zip ties left! Remove them before proceeding.

    • Carefully rotate the x-carriage-back printed part to the left. Make sure you are not twisting the cables.

  11. Using both hands lower slowly the X-axis down. Stop when the P.I.N.D.A. is around 2-3 cm above the surface. Proceed carefully as you might scratch the surface.
    • Using both hands lower slowly the X-axis down. Stop when the P.I.N.D.A. is around 2-3 cm above the surface.

    • Proceed carefully as you might scratch the surface.

    • In case you have a piece of fabric or bubble foil you can use it now, to protect the sheet against scratches.

  12. Release both M3x10 screws and remove them. Remove the filament-sensor-cover part together with the (short) PTFE tube.
    • Release both M3x10 screws and remove them.

    • Remove the filament-sensor-cover part together with the (short) PTFE tube.

    • Release and remove both M3x40 screws including the springs.

    • Release the M3x30 screw, but leave it in place, we will remove it later.

    • Release and remove the M3x40 screw.

  13. In this step, we will remove the idler part. Before doing so, make sure you catch two translucent washers, which are on both sides! Remove the M3x30 screw from the idler. Remove the plug and the idler. Make sure you catch the translucent washers!
    • In this step, we will remove the idler part. Before doing so, make sure you catch two translucent washers, which are on both sides!

    • Remove the M3x30 screw from the idler.

    • Remove the plug and the idler. Make sure you catch the translucent washers!

    • Release the M3x10 screw and carefully remove the filament sensor. Avoid touching the chips on the PCB!

    • Release the M3x10 screw and push from below the extruder to remove the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Avoid pulling the sensor out using cable!

    • In case you can't push the P.I.N.D.A. sensor up, very gently spread the holder around the sensor. Be careful as you might break it.

  14. In this step, the extruder body will fall apart, make sure you hold the motor in the front! Release and remove both M3 screws holding the extruder-body on the X-axis.
    • In this step, the extruder body will fall apart, make sure you hold the motor in the front!

    • Release and remove both M3 screws holding the extruder-body on the X-axis.

    • Have a look at the printer from the top, gently lay the extruder-body with the motor on the heatbed.

    • Release and remove the last couple of M3 screws holding the motor and extruder-body together.

    • Now, remove the extruder-body part.

    • The extruder-body will be replaced with a new one.

  15. The final check of  the surgery!
    • The final check of the surgery!

    • Majority of the extruder's printed parts should be removed. The only remaining parts are X-carriage and X-carriage-back.

    • Make sure all the cables aren't stretched! Lower the X-axis down if needed.

    • Try removing all the nuts and screws from the disassembled parts. You will need them for the reassembly. Some nuts might be a bit difficult to remove from the extruder-body or extruder-cover, you can use the ones sent in the bag with the plastic parts.

  16. Let's check the filament sensor. See the picture to compare two states of the sensor:
    • Let's check the filament sensor. See the picture to compare two states of the sensor:

    • A clean sensor is without any dust particles or grease. It is necessary to keep the sensor clean for precise readings of the filament.

    • A dirty sensor is covered with dust and grease, which can significantly reduce its precision.

    • How to clean it: use a Microfiber cloth and gently wipe the sensor in one direction only. To remove the grease, spray a bit of IPA on the cloth, not directly on the sensor!

  17. BE CAREFUL with the filament sensor, do not touch the black PCB nor the chips on it.
    • BE CAREFUL with the filament sensor, do not touch the black PCB nor the chips on it.

    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • Extruder-body B7 (1x)

    • Filament sensor (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (1x)

    • M3n nut (2x)

    • M3nS nut (2x)

  18. Before we continue with the assembly, we need to insert nuts in the Extruder-body. Take the extra time and effort to place them in properly. You won't be able to reach them later. Rotate the front part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.
    • Before we continue with the assembly, we need to insert nuts in the Extruder-body. Take the extra time and effort to place them in properly. You won't be able to reach them later.

    • Rotate the front part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.

    • Rotate the rear part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.

    • If you can't push the nuts in, use a longer screw from the other side and tighten it until you "pull" the nut in.

  19. Carefully insert the filament sensor in the slot, do not use force or you might damage the PCB! Carefully insert the filament sensor in the slot, do not use force or you might damage the PCB!
    • Carefully insert the filament sensor in the slot, do not use force or you might damage the PCB!

  20. Turn the extruder-body like in the picture. The pins of the filament sensor must be facing up. Locate the opening for the M3 screw.
    • Turn the extruder-body like in the picture. The pins of the filament sensor must be facing up.

    • Locate the opening for the M3 screw.

    • Take the M3x10 screw and tighten the sensor in place. No nut is needed, the screw will self-tap into the plastic.

    • The sensor must be tightened completely to prevent its movement BUT BE CAREFUL during tightening to avoid damage to the sensor.

    • Layers might be visible in this printed part due to the geometry. The functionality and strength remain unaffected.

  21. Take two M3nS nuts from the package and insert them in the slots, all the way in.
    • Take two M3nS nuts from the package and insert them in the slots, all the way in.

    • Check proper alignment with the 1.5mm Allen key.

  22. For the following step, please prepare:
    • For the following step, please prepare:

    • M3x30 screw (3x)

    • M3 translucent washer (2x)

    • Translucent washers are placed on the idler for better visibility. No need to place them as in the picture ;)

  23. Turn the Extruder-body like in the picture. The pins must be facing to the right. Insert M3x30 screw in the hole.
    • Turn the Extruder-body like in the picture. The pins must be facing to the right.

    • Insert M3x30 screw in the hole.

    • Place a washer from the other side.

    • Assemble the idler on the M3x30 screw.

    • Finish the assembly with the second washer.

  24. Connect carefully the extruder-body with the extruder motor and place it on the heatbed. Motor cable should be pointing in the indicated direction. Make sure both parts are properly aligned, then slightly tighten the M3x30 screw.
    • Connect carefully the extruder-body with the extruder motor and place it on the heatbed.

    • Motor cable should be pointing in the indicated direction.

    • Make sure both parts are properly aligned, then slightly tighten the M3x30 screw.

    • Insert two M3x30 screws and tighten them firmly.

    • Return to the idler screw and check, whether you can move with the idler part easily, if not release the screw. In case the idler part is too loose, you can tighten the screw a bit.

    • Leave the fourth hole empty for now, we will use it later ;)

  25. For the following step, please prepare:
    • For the following step, please prepare:

    • M3x30 screw (1x)

    • M3x18 screw (1x)

  26. Place the shorter M3x18 screw in the left hole. Place the longer M3x30 screw in the right hole. Check from the other side of the X-carriage, both screws should be sticking few millimetres out. It will help you during the assembly.
    • Place the shorter M3x18 screw in the left hole.

    • Place the longer M3x30 screw in the right hole.

    • Check from the other side of the X-carriage, both screws should be sticking few millimetres out. It will help you during the assembly.

    • Before you move to the next step, arrange the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and Front print fan cables. Push gently both cables in the channel and lay them over the extruder-body. See the third picture for details. Pay attention to this part or you might pinch and break them!

  27. Mount the extruder-body on the X-carriage and tighten slightly both screws.
    • Mount the extruder-body on the X-carriage and tighten slightly both screws.

    • Make sure no wires are pinched between both plastic parts.

    • Make sure the pins of the filament sensor aren't bent or in contact with the printed parts.

    • Check the proper alignment using the edge of both parts.

    • Tighten both screws.

  28. Create a loop on the P.I.N.D.A. sensor cable.
    • Create a loop on the P.I.N.D.A. sensor cable.

    • Slide the sensor in the holder on the extruder body.

    • Exact position will be set later.

  29. To have a better access to the lower part of the extruder, move carefully the X-axis up. Stop slightly above the middle of the height of the printer's frame.
    • To have a better access to the lower part of the extruder, move carefully the X-axis up. Stop slightly above the middle of the height of the printer's frame.

    • Using your fingers rotate the lead screws to move the X-axis up. Pulling the X-axis isn't recommended.

    • Move both sides up simultaneously!

  30. Carefully slide the hotend back to the extruder-body. CHECK THE PROPER ALIGNMENT of the hotend in the extruder body. THIS IS CRUCIAL. Otherwise, you won't be able to calibrate the printer later! Where to check the alignment:
    • Carefully slide the hotend back to the extruder-body.

    • CHECK THE PROPER ALIGNMENT of the hotend in the extruder body. THIS IS CRUCIAL. Otherwise, you won't be able to calibrate the printer later!

    • Where to check the alignment:

    • There should be no gap between the extruder-body and the hotend.

    • The last rib on the hotend's heatsink should be aligned with the printed part. See the photo.

    • Make sure the hotend's cables are on the left side. Compare your assembly with the picture.

  31. For the following steps, please prepare: Extruder-cover B7 (1x) M3nS nut (1x)
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • Extruder-cover B7 (1x)

    • M3nS nut (1x)

    • M3x25 screw (2x)

    • Insert the M3nS nut in the extruder-cover. Ensure proper alignment using the smallest Allen key.

  32. Arrange the extruder motor cables in the channel all the way to the back. Insert both M3x25 screws in the extruder-cover and slide it in above the extruder motor cable. Check the parts alignment and tighten both parts together.
    • Arrange the extruder motor cables in the channel all the way to the back.

    • Insert both M3x25 screws in the extruder-cover and slide it in above the extruder motor cable.

    • Check the parts alignment and tighten both parts together.

  33. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • M3x18 screw (4x)

    • The screws might be already in the Noctua fan.

  34. Check again the arrangement of the extruder motor cables in the channel all the way to the back. Place back the  Left hotend fan (Noctua) and make sure no wire is pinched.
    • Check again the arrangement of the extruder motor cables in the channel all the way to the back.

    • Place back the Left hotend fan (Noctua) and make sure no wire is pinched.

    • Insert and tighten all four M3x18 screws. Be careful with the tightening as you might break the plastic frame of the fan.

  35. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • nozzle-fan-45deg-support (1x)

    • nozzle-fan-45deg (1x)

    • M3x18 screw (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • M3n nut (1x)

    • In case you are missing one M3x10 screw please use the spare bag.

  36. Press the M3n nut in the support, all the way in. It will be barely visible. If needed use a screw from the other side to pull the nut in, then remove the screw. Connect the support to the extruder using the M3x10 screw. Note the correct orientation in the picture.
    • Press the M3n nut in the support, all the way in. It will be barely visible. If needed use a screw from the other side to pull the nut in, then remove the screw.

    • Connect the support to the extruder using the M3x10 screw. Note the correct orientation in the picture.

    • The inclined part of the support must be facing to the extruder cover.

  37. Place the nozzle-fan on the extruder and secure it using M3x10 screw. Slide the Front print fan in the nozzle-fan. Secure the fan using an M3x18 screw.
    • Place the nozzle-fan on the extruder and secure it using M3x10 screw.

    • Slide the Front print fan in the nozzle-fan.

    • Secure the fan using an M3x18 screw.

    • Note for the B7/R3 design only one instead of two M3x18 screws is needed you will have one M3x18 left, which is OK ;)

    • It might happen the fan cable is too short and you can't incline the fan. First, try gently pulling the cable from the spiral wrap. If this doesn't help there are two options:

    • In case you will be changing the spiral wrap for the textile sleeve, you can move the entire cable later, without unhooking the cable from the fan. Secure the fan in the X-axis for now.

    • If you won't be changing the spiral wrap. Unhook the cable (see the picture), but be extremely careful as you might disconnect the wires from the fan!

  38. For the following step, please prepare:
    • For the following step, please prepare:

    • M3x40 screw (2x)

    • Extruder spring (2x)

  39. Assemble springs on both screws. Close the idler on the extruder, so the screws can reach it.
    • Assemble springs on both screws.

    • Close the idler on the extruder, so the screws can reach it.

    • Place both screws into the extruder body and tighten them. The screw's head should be almost aligned with the printed surface.

  40. For the this step, please prepare: mmu2-filament-sensor-cover (1x)
    • For the this step, please prepare:

    • mmu2-filament-sensor-cover (1x)

    • Idler-plug (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • PTFE tube 4x13 (1x)

    • Use a new PTFE tube (short 13 mm), which is in the MMU2 upgrade kit.

    • The new PTFE tube and mmu2-filament-sensor-cover are in the bag nr. 3.

  41. Locate the largest circular opening for the PTFE tube on the top of the Extruder. Push the PTFE tube in. Most of the tube's length will stick out. Orientation doesn't matter, both ends are the same.
    • Locate the largest circular opening for the PTFE tube on the top of the Extruder.

    • Push the PTFE tube in. Most of the tube's length will stick out. Orientation doesn't matter, both ends are the same.

    • In case the PTFE does not hold properly in the hole, you can assemble it to the cover first, BUT MAKE SURE there is no obstacle in the hole as you can easily deform the tube while placing as a part of the cover.

  42. Install the filament sensor cover and tighten it with the M3x10 screws from the previous cover.
    • Install the filament sensor cover and tighten it with the M3x10 screws from the previous cover.

    • Assemble the idler-plug and ensure it fits properly. Otherwise, it might fall down during the print.

  43. First, rotate back the X-carriage-back part. Ensure no cables are pinched between X-carriage and X-carriage-back.
    • First, rotate back the X-carriage-back part.

    • Ensure no cables are pinched between X-carriage and X-carriage-back.

    • Guide the filament sensor cable as in the picture.

    • Tighten all five M3x10 screws.

  44. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • M3x40 screw (1x)

  45. Let's connect back the filament sensor, there are two important things: There are four pins on the sensor, make sure the connector fits properly on them. There is a safety pin on the connector, which must face to the left, when connected to the sensor.
    • Let's connect back the filament sensor, there are two important things:

    • There are four pins on the sensor, make sure the connector fits properly on them.

    • There is a safety pin on the connector, which must face to the left, when connected to the sensor.

    • Secure the extruder-body with the screw M3x40.

  46. Carefully slide the spiral wrap away from the X-carriage-back. One or two centimetres are enough. Find the end of the wrap and start unwrapping  towards the EINSY-case.
    • Carefully slide the spiral wrap away from the X-carriage-back. One or two centimetres are enough.

    • Find the end of the wrap and start unwrapping towards the EINSY-case.

  47. Using an Allen key release the M3x40 holding the EINSY-door and open it. Using pliers cut the zip tie holding the wrap. Be very careful, avoid cutting any wire.
    • Using an Allen key release the M3x40 holding the EINSY-door and open it.

    • Using pliers cut the zip tie holding the wrap. Be very careful, avoid cutting any wire.

    • Take the spiral wrap out including the cables and remove the wrap completely.

  48. For the following steps, please prepare: Zip tie (6x)
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • Zip tie (6x)

    • Textile sleeve 13 x 490 mm (1x)

    • There are two textile sleeves in the package, use the larger one (diameter).

    • Before wrapping the cables, you can adjust the cable length for the inclined front print fan.

  49. Open one end of the textile sleeve and slide it on the cable bundle from the extruder including the nylon. Leave the cables from the Hotend out for now. Length of the first wrap should be slightly longer than the  cable-holder part, about 5 cm is enough.
    • Open one end of the textile sleeve and slide it on the cable bundle from the extruder including the nylon.

    • Leave the cables from the Hotend out for now.

    • Length of the first wrap should be slightly longer than the cable-holder part, about 5 cm is enough.

    • Gently twist the sleeve to make it smaller and tighter around the cables and slide the sleeve towards the extruder.

    • Use 3 zip ties and insert them in the lower row of holes on the cable-holder.

    • Twist the sleeve again (without twisting the cables inside) and tighten the zip ties.

    • IMPORTANT: Cut the remaining part of each zip tie using pliers as closest to the head as possible. Note the correct position of each zip ties's head (slightly off-centre to the left).

  50. Use two zip ties and push them through the upper slots on the cable-holder. ATTENTION! Before tightening the zip ties add the cables from the hotend. Once the hotend cables are included, tighten the zip ties and cut remaining parts.
    • Use two zip ties and push them through the upper slots on the cable-holder.

    • ATTENTION! Before tightening the zip ties add the cables from the hotend.

    • Once the hotend cables are included, tighten the zip ties and cut remaining parts.

    • Open the textile sleeve and insert the cables from the hotend.

    • Compare the look of the cable management with the last picture.

    • The zip tie arrangement was tested with the injection molded double spool holder. If you are using any other frame mounted type holder, make sure the zip ties won't crash into it, which might result in a print failure.

  51. Continue wrapping the cables in the textile sleeve all the way to the EINSY-case. Notice the line of the "seam" will be most probably straight. Let's fix it ;)
    • Continue wrapping the cables in the textile sleeve all the way to the EINSY-case.

    • Notice the line of the "seam" will be most probably straight. Let's fix it ;)

    • Start twisting the textile sleeve (not the cables) to achieve a spiral like look. Thanks to this motion the sleeve will wrap evenly around the cables and it also prevent any cables from falling out of the bundle.

  52. Take the end of the cable bundle, find the nylon filament and separate 2-3 cm from the bundle. There is a small circular hole in the EINSY-case for the nylon filament. Find it and slide the filament in. Gently push the cables one by one to the opening in the  EINSY-case.
    • Take the end of the cable bundle, find the nylon filament and separate 2-3 cm from the bundle.

    • There is a small circular hole in the EINSY-case for the nylon filament. Find it and slide the filament in.

    • Gently push the cables one by one to the opening in the EINSY-case.

    • Slide the textile sleeve down at least 1 cm below lower edge of the opening.

    • Secure the entire bundle using a zip tie.

  53. Close the EINSY-door and make sure no wire is pinched.
    • Close the EINSY-door and make sure no wire is pinched.

    • Use an Allen key and tighten the M3x40 screw.

  54. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • M3x10 screw (1x)

    • M3nS nut (1x)

  55. Slide the M3nS nut in the slot and tighten the probe SLIGHTLY with the M3x10 screw.
    • Slide the M3nS nut in the slot and tighten the probe SLIGHTLY with the M3x10 screw.

    • No need to set precise position of the sensor now, we will do it later.

  56. Carefully and quietly open the bag with the Haribo sweets.  High level of  noise might attract nearby predators!
    • Carefully and quietly open the bag with the Haribo sweets. High level of noise might attract nearby predators!

    • Sort the bears into six rows according to the following scheme (colours might differ):

    • Current chapter was very difficult, at least 25 % of total amount is needed.

    • Idler assembly is quite easy, 10 % is enough.

    • Pulley body assembly requires your attention, eat no less than 20 % of all bears.

    • Electronics assembly is the last chapter with high level of difficulty, consume 25 %.

    • Spool holders are easy to make, research shows that 10 % is enough.

    • Preflight check is almost effortless. Experienced user will require no more than 10 %.

  57. You've just finished the upgrade of the extruder. Amazing job!
    • You've just finished the upgrade of the extruder. Amazing job!

    • Let's start with MMU2 upgrade in the next chapter - 1. Idler body assembly

Finish Line

132 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

217 Guides authored

Team

Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

Community

3 Members

359 Guides authored

21 Comments

Hi Jakob, could you describe the steps needed in case we have already updated the extruder?

I think we would just need to:

1. Swap the hot end PTFE

2. Update the filament sensor cover and change the PTFE

3. Change the spiral wrap for textile sleeve

Is that it?

Miguel Mancilla - Reply

Good point Miguel, I will make it more clear in the beginning.

Jakub Dolezal -

I just realized that these instructions are located after section 3 step 18. We might need a note about that.

Miguel Mancilla - Reply

Those are for the owners of MK3/MK2.5 who already upgraded to R3 parts before getting the MMU upgrade. Also we are shipping the B7 (aka R3) parts, in that case you only need to change the PTFE tube for “MMU2” type.

Jakub Dolezal -

Hi, is it possible to upgrade from original parts (B5/R1?) to B7/R3 - if so are there any instructions on that, if not what other parts are needed? I have a prebuilt MK3 ordered last September (didnt come with spare nuts/bolts/ zip ties etc as it wasnt kit build). I ordered the MMU back in January so hopefully that should arrive soon but even if it includes B7 parts I think I might need to get some others as well - or is there any downside to using MMU2 with the original MK3 parts (I dont use flexible filaments)?

Daniel Triggs - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 17

Past 7 Days: 59

Past 30 Days: 222

All Time: 17,326