1. 3.1 mm drill bit
    • 3.1 mm drill bit

    • P-drill

    • M3x12 screws

    • M3nS square nuts

    • All parts of the P-drill, including the printed part are part of the upgrade kit.

    Does the P drill come in the upgrade kit ? It didn't print out with the Gcode file........Thanks !

    Dave Cook - Reply

    Hi Dave, yes the P-drill is part of the upgrade kit.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Yes it does. You get the plastic part (the drill bit holder) and the drill bit.

    Avi Schwartz - Reply

    Hi Avi, thanks for confirming.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    My Y carriage didn't need to be drilled. The drill bit already passed through the holes easily. I guess my original mk2 kit had a newer mk2s carriage with the larger holes already.

    Ben Gruver - Reply

    Hi Ben, be sure to check all the holes. So you don't have to go back to the drilling later ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

  2. Insert M3nS square nuts into the nut traps in the P-drill printed part.
    • Insert M3nS square nuts into the nut traps in the P-drill printed part.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the 3.1 mm drill bit all the way into the P-drill printed part.

    Add Comment

    • Insert M3x12 screws into the P-drill printed part.

    • Using 2.5mm Allen key tighten the screws as much as possible.

    Add Comment

    • Highlighted holes are going to be drilled in next steps.

    Is there any reason why a person wouldn't want to just chuck this drill bit up in a cordless drill and drill the holes out?

    Tom Barrett - Reply

    Hi Tom, not everybody is equipped with a cordless drill, but if you have one, you can use it. Just ensure the enlarged opening will be perpendicular to the Y-carriage.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    • Using the assembled P-drill, drill the highlighted holes from previous step (increase the diameter of the original holes used for zip ties to secure bearings).

    • Rotate with the P-drill assembly clockwise as shown in the picture.

    • Apply force downward through the Y-carriage.

    • It's similar to opening a wine bottle, but don't apply that much force or the drill bit will get stuck. If it gets stuck, just rotate the opposite direction and repeat with less force.

    • If the drill bit is slipping in the printed part, just tighten the M3x12 screws a little more.

    • Don't drill the Y-carriage directly on the table, you can damage the surface. Use cardboard or empty filament spool as an underlay

    • Ensure the P-drill drills few millimeters through the Y-carriage.

    • Proceed to the next chapter - 2. XYZ-axis reassembly

    Expected it to require more force but this step is really easy. Don't have to apply any force actually.

    Danie - Reply

    Hi Danie, the drill is sharp enough, so it should go through without much struggle.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    My holes diameter seem already 3.1mm. I removed only some coating with the provided 3.1 bit. I’m not sure if it is a required step for everybody.

    Ron - Reply

    Hi Ron, the drill bit is to ensure the correct diameter. Definitely required for everyone to check it as you won't be able to place U-bolts if the hole is smaller.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    It would appear that if you had one of the last builds before the MK2S was announced (like me), they had already begun producing Y-carriages with larger holes. Didn’t need to drill.

    Scott Waun -

    Hi Scott, yes the production was updated. This chapter is mostly focused on the early MK2 batches.

    Jakub Dolezal -

Finish Line

42 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

112,986 Reputation

161 Guides authored

One Comment

I had my doubts about the effectiveness of the finger drill but it worked like a charm and much quieter than my power drill.

David Lockwood - Reply

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