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  1. 13/17mm spanners
    • 13/17mm spanners

    • 3.6mm flathead screwdriver

    • Needle-nose pliers

    • 2.5 and 1.5mm Allen key

  2. Y-corners
    • Y-corners

    • Y-belt-holder

    • Y-motor

    • Y-idler

    • PSU-Y-part

    • Y-motor-distance

    • 3D printed parts can slightly differ from pictures. It won't affect the printer's assembly.

  3. Use M10n nuts (14 pcs) , M10w washers (12 pcs) and M10 threaded rods (2 pcs). Screw the nuts on and place washers, Y-corners and PSU-Y-part on the threaded rod as shown in the picture. Ensure initial 100mm (3.937inches) distance between a washer after counter-nut and the Y-axis corner. Use the photo as a reference.
    • Use M10n nuts (14 pcs) , M10w washers (12 pcs) and M10 threaded rods (2 pcs).

    • Screw the nuts on and place washers, Y-corners and PSU-Y-part on the threaded rod as shown in the picture.

    • Ensure initial 100mm (3.937inches) distance between a washer after counter-nut and the Y-axis corner. Use the photo as a reference.

    • The 2 nuts have to be tightened against each other (counter-nut).

    • Note that there is no gap between parts, they have to fit together.

    • For the initial position of Y-corners, you can temporarily mount the rods (see step 10, 11).

  4. Use M8n nuts (8 pcs), M8w washers (8 pcs) and M8 threaded rods (2 pcs). Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-motor part on threaded rod as shown in the picture.
    • Use M8n nuts (8 pcs), M8w washers (8 pcs) and M8 threaded rods (2 pcs).

    • Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-motor part on threaded rod as shown in the picture.

    • Y-motor part should be somewhere in the middle of the threaded rod. The precise position doesn't matter at this time.

    • Ensure the correct orientation of the Y-motor part.

    • 3D printed parts can slightly differ from pictures. It won't affect the assembly.

  5. Use M8n nuts (6 pcs),  M8w washers (6 pcs) and M8 threaded rods (2 pcs). Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-idler on threaded rod as shown in the picture.
    • Use M8n nuts (6 pcs), M8w washers (6 pcs) and M8 threaded rods (2 pcs).

    • Screw the nuts and place washers and Y-idler on threaded rod as shown in the picture.

    • The Y-idler should be somewhere in the middle of the threaded rod. The precise position doesn't matter at this time.

  6. Use M8n nuts (8 pcs) and M8w washers (8 pcs). Y-axis stage front Y-axis stage back
    • Use M8n nuts (8 pcs) and M8w washers (8 pcs).

    • Y-axis stage front

    • Y-axis stage back

    • Insert Y-axis stage front and back into Y-axis side elements and lock it with washers and nuts like in the picture.

    • Ensure the correct placement. The Y-axis rear stage has to be closer to the double-nuts!

    • !!! Given dimensions are recommended, not absolute. Use them as a guidance for your assembly. Your final values can slightly differ.

  7. Prusa i3 frame
    • Prusa i3 frame

    • Y-axis stage

  8. Insert the Y-axis stage into the frame as close to Y-corners as possible. Adjust and tighten the M8n nuts.
    • Insert the Y-axis stage into the frame as close to Y-corners as possible.

    • Adjust and tighten the M8n nuts.

    • Rotate the Y-axis stage and repeat.

    • After adjusting, the Y-axis stage should cause minimum movement while inserted into the frame.

    • Tighten the M8n nuts gently or you'll risk damaging the 3D printed parts.

    • It is incredibly important that the axis is perfectly rectangular at this stage of construction, all rods need to be perfectly straight and level. If not, you'll have troubles calibrating later on!

    • The aluminium frame is used just to set the proper dimension, do not mount it to the Y-axis, we will do that later.

    • Insert the Y-axis stage into the frame as close to Y-corners as possible. Adjust and tighten the M8n nuts. Rotate the Y-axis stage and repeat.

    • Make sure Y-corners are vertical. If not, insert the spanners between the M8 threaded rods. Use any fabric to protect them from scratching. Push the spanners to straighten the corners.

    • Video is available in an online (digital) version only.

  9. In the following steps, use the mid-sized smooth rods (330 mm).
    • In the following steps, use the mid-sized smooth rods (330 mm).

    • Don't throw away included plastic spiral wraps, you will need them later for cable management.

  10. Insert the two medium length 8mm smooth rods into the Y-axis stage. Rods length is 330 mm. Adjust and tighten the M10n nuts. After tightening the nuts, there shouldn't be any gap between 8mm rods and Y-axis corners.
    • Insert the two medium length 8mm smooth rods into the Y-axis stage. Rods length is 330 mm.

    • Adjust and tighten the M10n nuts.

    • After tightening the nuts, there shouldn't be any gap between 8mm rods and Y-axis corners.

    • Retain 100mm distance between a washer after counter-nut and the Y-axis corner.

    • Remove the 8mm rods.

    • Insert the two medium length 8mm smooth rods into the Y-axis stage. Adjust and tighten the M10n nuts. After tightening the nuts, there shouldn't be any gap between 8mm rods and Y-axis corners. Retain 100mm distance between a washer after counter-nut and the Y-axis corner. Remove the 8mm rods.

    • Video is available in an online (digital) version only.

  11. The marker (used in the next steps) is made as a countersunk hole, see the picture.
    • The marker (used in the next steps) is made as a countersunk hole, see the picture.

  12. When placing bearings onto the Y-carriage, make sure that they are oriented as shown in the picture. One of the tracks has to be in line with the cutout for the bearing!
    • When placing bearings onto the Y-carriage, make sure that they are oriented as shown in the picture. One of the tracks has to be in line with the cutout for the bearing!

    • This orientation has to be followed in all 3 bearings on the Y-carriage!

    • Marker on the Y-carriage must be facing the table (not visible)!

  13. Begin by locating the marker, at this step the marker should be facing the table (not visible) and only then you can add the bearings. If you place bearings to the same side as marker, you will have issues later! Insert a 3x20x16 u-shaped bolt into the Y-carriage as shown on the picture. Place the linear bearings in cutouts.
    • Begin by locating the marker, at this step the marker should be facing the table (not visible) and only then you can add the bearings. If you place bearings to the same side as marker, you will have issues later!

    • Insert a 3x20x16 u-shaped bolt into the Y-carriage as shown on the picture.

    • Place the linear bearings in cutouts.

    • On side with two bearings slide bearings to the center, towards each other as close as possible.

    • DON'T tighten the u-shaped bolts!!! Wait for the next step.

  14. Use pliers to tighten the u-shaped bolts. Step 1: place the nuts (M3nN) on the u-shaped bolt and insert a bearing. Step 2: using pliers tighten the nuts until you reach the surface of the Y-carriage, then stop tightening!
    • Use pliers to tighten the u-shaped bolts.

    • Step 1: place the nuts (M3nN) on the u-shaped bolt and insert a bearing.

    • Step 2: using pliers tighten the nuts until you reach the surface of the Y-carriage, then stop tightening!

    • Step 3: use pliers again and rotate with the nuts only 1/4 of circle to finish the tightening. Tighten all six nuts this way.

    • Don't tighten the nuts more than it is described above or you will deform the bearings!

  15. M3x25 screw (1 pc)
    • M3x25 screw (1 pc)

    • M3w washer (2 pcs)

    • 623h bearing housing (1 pc)

    • M3nN nylock nut (1 pc)

  16. To tighten the Y-idler, use the pliers and 2.5mm Allen key.
    • To tighten the Y-idler, use the pliers and 2.5mm Allen key.

    • Tighten the screw gently, just half a turn max after the washers touch the 3D printed part.

  17. Step 1: Place the motor temporarily in the frame next to the Y-motor part. See the first picture. Step 2:  Take the Y-motor-distance and place it at the very end of the motor casing.  The two half-circle cuts on Y-motor- distance printed part must be facing the threaded rods. See the second picture. Step 3: Take the motor away and press the Y-motor-distance printed part towards the threaded rods all the way in. See the third picture.
    • Step 1: Place the motor temporarily in the frame next to the Y-motor part. See the first picture.

    • Step 2: Take the Y-motor-distance and place it at the very end of the motor casing. The two half-circle cuts on Y-motor- distance printed part must be facing the threaded rods. See the second picture.

    • Step 3: Take the motor away and press the Y-motor-distance printed part towards the threaded rods all the way in. See the third picture.

    • Note the correct orientation of the cutout for motor wires, it's very important!

    • It is recommended to use motor labeled "Y axis" as you will need it for the next step.

  18. Y-axis motor (the one labeled with Y axis) M3x10 screw (2 pcs)
    • Y-axis motor (the one labeled with Y axis)

    • M3x10 screw (2 pcs)

    • Motor cables must be facing threaded rods!

    • Don't tighten the motor yet, in the next step you need to add another cable from an endstop.

  19. Insert the Y-axis endstop connector between the motor and threaded rods. Gently pull the connector of the cable in the direction away from the frame (see the picture). Using the 2.5mm Allen key, secure the motor to the 3D printed part.
    • Insert the Y-axis endstop connector between the motor and threaded rods.

    • Gently pull the connector of the cable in the direction away from the frame (see the picture).

    • Using the 2.5mm Allen key, secure the motor to the 3D printed part.

    • Tighten the motor gently to avoid damage to the 3D printed part.

    • Endstops are part of the box 2.3.4.5.SUP.

  20. M2x12 screw (2 pcs) Y-axis endstop Ensure the correct placement using marker on the printed part. See third picture with pink arrows.
    • M2x12 screw (2 pcs)

    • Y-axis endstop

    • Ensure the correct placement using marker on the printed part. See third picture with pink arrows.

    • Secure the endstop by two M2x12 screws and push it forward in the direction of the arrow.

    • To tighten the Y-axis endstop use 1.5mm Allen key. Use gentle force to avoid damage to the printed part.

  21. Guide the wires from the Y-axis endstop to go side by side with motor cables as shown in the picture.
    • Guide the wires from the Y-axis endstop to go side by side with motor cables as shown in the picture.

  22. Place the Y-belt holder on the Y-carriage as shown in the picture. M3x12 screw (2 pcs) Be aware of the orientation of the Y-belt holder (belt entry should face towards single bearing).
    • Place the Y-belt holder on the Y-carriage as shown in the picture.

    • M3x12 screw (2 pcs)

    • Be aware of the orientation of the Y-belt holder (belt entry should face towards single bearing).

    • There's no thread in the Y-carriage, just push the screws all the way in.

    • Assemble the M3 nuts on the screws from the opposite side of the Y-carriage as shown in the picture. Use nuts from 9.SPARE bag.

    • The nuts will be removed in Chapter 7.

  23. Use the mid-sized smooth rods (330 mm)
    • Use the mid-sized smooth rods (330 mm)

    • Insert the 8mm smooth rods into the linear bearings on the Y-carriage.

    • Be very careful! Insert the rod straight into the bearings, do not apply too much force and do not tilt the rod!

    • Try to move slightly with the smooth rod after being placed through the bearings. If there is an increased friction, check the bearings are placed straight and not tilted.

  24. Insert the assembled Y-carriage into the Y-axis stage. Ensure the correct orientation of parts (the Y-motor mount is on the right and the single bearing is on the bottom).
    • Insert the assembled Y-carriage into the Y-axis stage.

    • Ensure the correct orientation of parts (the Y-motor mount is on the right and the single bearing is on the bottom).

    • Note the location of the Y-carriage orientation marker - it's important the Y-carriage is oriented as in the picture !

    • Insert zip ties into the holes in Y-corners.

    • Ensure the correct orientation of zip ties (head of the zip tie should be facing out from the Y-axis stage).

    • Press smooth rods (330 mm) all the way in the Y-corners holders. Don't use excessive force.

  25. Using pliers, tighten the zipties as shown in the picture. Ensure the correct orientation of zipties connection.
    • Using pliers, tighten the zipties as shown in the picture.

    • Ensure the correct orientation of zipties connection.

    • Trim the zip ties after tightening.

  26. DON'T TRIM THE BELT unless you are asked in the instructions!!! Insert the Y-GT2 belt (shorter one) in the Y-belt holder as shown in the picture. First insert the flat part of the belt in the holder.
    • DON'T TRIM THE BELT unless you are asked in the instructions!!!

    • Insert the Y-GT2 belt (shorter one) in the Y-belt holder as shown in the picture.

    • First insert the flat part of the belt in the holder.

    • A reference video is included at step 36 covering steps 29-35.

  27. Guide the belt around the pin as shown in the picture. Push the belt all the way into the belt holder.
    • Guide the belt around the pin as shown in the picture.

    • Push the belt all the way into the belt holder.

  28. Undo the M3x10 screw. Rotate the motor until it hits the surface (table) as shown in the picture.
    • Undo the M3x10 screw.

    • Rotate the motor until it hits the surface (table) as shown in the picture.

  29. Place a GT2-16 pulley on the Y-motor shaft as shown in the picture. One of the screws must be facing directly against the pad (flat part) on the shaft. Note you don't have to remove the motor from the frame. Don't press the pulley against the motor. Leave a gap so the pulley can rotate freely.
    • Place a GT2-16 pulley on the Y-motor shaft as shown in the picture.

    • One of the screws must be facing directly against the pad (flat part) on the shaft. Note you don't have to remove the motor from the frame.

    • Don't press the pulley against the motor. Leave a gap so the pulley can rotate freely.

    • Don't tighten it yet, we'll get to that later.

  30. Run the Y-axis belt through the Y-motor  pulley and the Y-idler part. Run the Y-axis belt through the Y-motor  pulley and the Y-idler part.
    • Run the Y-axis belt through the Y-motor pulley and the Y-idler part.

  31. Using the pliers, insert the flat sides of the belt into the Y-belt holder as shown in the picture. Then guide the belt around the bottom pit as shown in the second picture.
    • Using the pliers, insert the flat sides of the belt into the Y-belt holder as shown in the picture.

    • Then guide the belt around the bottom pit as shown in the second picture.

  32. Using the pliers insert the belt all the way into the belt holder. Do not cut any excess of the belt, it should be evenly distributed on both sides as shown in the picture.
    • Using the pliers insert the belt all the way into the belt holder.

    • Do not cut any excess of the belt, it should be evenly distributed on both sides as shown in the picture.

    • The belt shouldn't be tight at the moment.

  33. Rotate the motor back. Screw in the removed M3x10 screw.
    • Rotate the motor back.

    • Screw in the removed M3x10 screw.

    • If you have to apply too much force and experiencing troubles, rotate the motor back, repeat previous step while making the belt more loose.

    • The belt should be quite tight, check it by pressing together both sides in the middle of the frame with little force.

    • Insert the Y-GT2 belt (shorter one) in the Y-belt holder. Run the Y-axis belt through Y-idler part and the Y-motor pulley. insert the belt all the way into the belt holder.

    • The belt should be quite tight, check it by pressing together both sides in the middle of the frame by gentle force.

  34. Move the Y-carriage as close as possible to the Y-idler. Adjust the Y-idler as shown in the picture (623h bearing housing should be in alignment with the belt). Before tightening the nuts, ensure the Y-idler is in horizontal position.
    • Move the Y-carriage as close as possible to the Y-idler.

    • Adjust the Y-idler as shown in the picture (623h bearing housing should be in alignment with the belt).

    • Before tightening the nuts, ensure the Y-idler is in horizontal position.

    • Tighten the M8n nuts gently to avoid damaging the 3D printed part.

  35. Adjust the Y-motor-mount as shown in the picture (the belt must remain straight and the motor should not collide with the Y-belt holder part). Make sure that you heard "click" sound and the Y-endstop is triggered. The belt part of the pulley has to be in axis with the belt itself.
    • Adjust the Y-motor-mount as shown in the picture (the belt must remain straight and the motor should not collide with the Y-belt holder part).

    • Make sure that you heard "click" sound and the Y-endstop is triggered.

    • The belt part of the pulley has to be in axis with the belt itself.

    • Tighten the M8n nuts gently to avoid damaging the 3D printed part.

  36. Tighten the screws in the pulley. One of the screws has to be tightened directly against the pad (flat part) on the shaft.
    • Tighten the screws in the pulley.

    • One of the screws has to be tightened directly against the pad (flat part) on the shaft.

    • Keep a small gap between the motor and the pulley.

  37. Ziptie the cables to the threaded rods as shown in the picture.
    • Ziptie the cables to the threaded rods as shown in the picture.

    • Cut and discard excess ziptie.

    • Tighten the zipties carefully to avoid damaging the wires.

    • Be careful while cutting the zipties to avoid cutting the wires.

  38. Place the assembled Y-axis on a flat surface. Check if every corner is touching the ground.
    • Place the assembled Y-axis on a flat surface.

    • Check if every corner is touching the ground.

    • If some corner is in the air, try twisting the axis slightly.

    • You can also check it by tapping each corner and listen if it's making any noise.

    • This is your last chance to ensure the Y-axis is perfectly angled and level. It'll save you a lot of hassle later!

    • You can use aluminium frame for check, but be careful for possible scratches.

  39. Stick the felt pad on each Y-corner.
    • Stick the felt pad on each Y-corner.

    • Felt pad is in the box 2.3.4.5.SUP

  40. Move the Y-carriage as close as possible to the Y-end-motor. Make sure that you heard the "click" sound and the Y-endstop is triggered as shown in the picture.
    • Move the Y-carriage as close as possible to the Y-end-motor.

    • Make sure that you heard the "click" sound and the Y-endstop is triggered as shown in the picture.

    • The colors on the picture are a bit over-saturated to highlight the endstop button.

  41. This is a crucial part of the assembly. Please check again you can see the marked part of the Y-carriage (as shown in the picture), otherwise your heatbed won't fit properly!
    • This is a crucial part of the assembly. Please check again you can see the marked part of the Y-carriage (as shown in the picture), otherwise your heatbed won't fit properly!

  42. Congratulations, you have assembled the  Y-axis!
    • Congratulations, you have assembled the Y-axis!

    • You can continue by assembling the X-axis in the next chapter - 3. X-axis assembly

Finish Line

618 other people completed this guide.

Josef Prusa

Member since: 01/05/2015

142 Guides authored

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67 Comments

First go out of the box took me 2 hrs to complete this step and this isn't my first 3d printer build. The M8 rods where tight in the printed parts so adjustment had to be done by rotating the rods as opposed to forcing it using the nuts. I did however ditch the supplied linear bearings in favour of the igus drylin linear bearings. It would be nice to have the bearings with a support that is less sensitive to crushing them as you tighten though. Overall I am really happy and really like that so much thought has gone into the detail and each part feels like it is real quality.

James Hawkes - Reply

Hi James, thanks for your feedback, I will check the printed parts for rods.

Jakub Dolezal -

I thought the same, I broke one bearing due to that u shaped screw, I'm sure it could be changed for a 3d printed part with more surface.

David Sastre -

2:30h completed time ~

printHead - Reply

Hi printhead, thanks for sharing your build time.

Jakub Dolezal -

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