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  1. Before we proceed further, we need to twist the textile sleeve. This will prevent the cables inside to slip out during the print.
    • Before we proceed further, we need to twist the textile sleeve. This will prevent the cables inside to slip out during the print.

    • Using your fingers gently twist the sleeve (not the cables) and create several wraps.

    • Twisting the sleeve will effectively shorten its length. In the next steps you might need to twist the sleeve slightly back to lengthen it.

  2. Let's make sure the cables from the hotend aren't in contact with the heatbed.
    • Let's make sure the cables from the hotend aren't in contact with the heatbed.

    • By rotating the threaded rods at the same time, lower manually the X-axis down until the nozzle is almost touching the heatbed.

    • In case the P.I.N.D.A. sensor touches the bed before the nozzle, move it up slightly.

    • Ensure there is a gap between the screw in the heatbed and the surface of the hotend cables. The gap should be 2-3 millimetres, the steel sheet will add another 1 mm.

    • In case the cables are rubbing against the screw, adjust them (push them up in the extruder)

    • In case you are unable to adjust the cables, unscrew the M3x10 screw and use a spare M3n nut to shorten the length of the thread. Then place the screw back.

  3. Slide the NYLON filament in the hole. Make sure the filament isn't pushing into the motor cables, which would indicate it is too long and you need to slightly unwrap the sleeve and push the filament back. Slide the sleeve in the holder at least 3/4 of the holder's height.
    • Slide the NYLON filament in the hole.

    • Make sure the filament isn't pushing into the motor cables, which would indicate it is too long and you need to slightly unwrap the sleeve and push the filament back.

    • Slide the sleeve in the holder at least 3/4 of the holder's height.

    • Again, ensure the filament isn't pushing the motor cables and if needed slightly unwrap the sleeve and push the filament up.

    • Use the Extruder-cable-clip and two M3x10 screws to fix the cable bundle in place.

  4. IMPORTANT: Connecting the filament sensor cable properly is crucial. If you don't follow the instructions properly, you will burn the sensor!!! DON'T CONNECT THE CABLE NOW, wait for the next step!!! To ensure the cable is connected properly we are introducing a new part called "plug-aligner". It is part of the printable parts and also included in the MK3 to MK3S upgrade G-codes. If you don't have it by now, please check at least the correct position of the cable connectors. You can print the part later, connectors can be plugged without it.
    • IMPORTANT: Connecting the filament sensor cable properly is crucial. If you don't follow the instructions properly, you will burn the sensor!!!

    • DON'T CONNECT THE CABLE NOW, wait for the next step!!!

    • To ensure the cable is connected properly we are introducing a new part called "plug-aligner". It is part of the printable parts and also included in the MK3 to MK3S upgrade G-codes. If you don't have it by now, please check at least the correct position of the cable connectors. You can print the part later, connectors can be plugged without it.

    • In case you have printed the plug-aligner, gently push it in. The notch should be oriented up, like in the picture.

    • There are two rows of pins in the connector:

    • Lower row (for MK3S) use these pins to connect the IR-sensor.

    • Upper row (for MMU2S) these pins won't be used in this manual.

  5. Connect the cables from the Extruder: Extruder heater (red cable pair | Nr. 1)
    • Connect the cables from the Extruder:

    • Extruder heater (red cable pair | Nr. 1)

    • Hotend fan (black cable | Nr .2)

    • Print fan (red label | Nr. 3)

    • IR-sensor with two wires facing to the right (Nr. 4) !!! USE THE LOWER ROW !!!

    • Extruder motor (yellow label with "E" | Nr. 5)

    • Extruder thermistor (green/yellow label | Nr. 6)

    • P.I.N.D.A. probe cable (Nr. 7)

  6. Check your electronics connection with the attached picture. Make sure once more the Filament sensor cable is connected to all pins! Misalignment might lead to permanently damaging the sensor.
    • Check your electronics connection with the attached picture.

    • Make sure once more the Filament sensor cable is connected to all pins! Misalignment might lead to permanently damaging the sensor.

  7. For this step, please prepare: M3x40 screw (1x)
    • For this step, please prepare:

    • M3x40 screw (1x)

    • Close the Einsy-door.

    • Make sure that no wire is pinched!

    • Tighten the M3x40 screw.

  8. Congratulations, you've just upgraded the Original Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer!
    • Congratulations, you've just upgraded the Original Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer!

    • You're almost there... Just finish the chapter 5. Preflight check

Finish Line

125 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

214 Guides authored

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Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

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355 Guides authored

6 Comments

Those textile selves look pretty sharp, that’s a nice little bit of upgrade. It look a lot cleaner. One suggestion. I would be a good idea to add the sensor spacer/aligner clip to the print at home parts file (or maybe include one).

Byron Wingerd - Reply

Hello Byron,

The sensor aligner plug comes by default with the newest revisions of MK3. If you would like to print one yourself, please send us an e-mail to info@prusa3d.com.

Marcin M. - Official Prusa CS -

I didn’t see that the aligner plug was included with the MK3S prusa-printed parts upgrade kit

Jeff Byrom - Reply

it’s there if you print the gcodes in part 2

Brian Whittle -

Does any connectors in the EINSY move between MK3/MMU2 and MK3S/MMU2S?

Mirar - Reply

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