Skip to main content
  1. 13/17mm spanners
    • 13/17mm spanners

    • 3.6mm flathead screwdriver

    • Needle-nose pliers

    • 2.5 and 1.5mm Allen key

  2. Z-axis-top-left
    • Z-axis-top-left

    • Z-axis-top-right

    • Z-axis-bottom-left

    • Z-axis-bottom-right

    • Z-screws covers

    • Use the hole for 8 mm smooth rod as orientation key in the next steps.

  3. Place parts on the frame as shown in the picture. Note the frame orientation (PRUSA logo has to be visible). All screws in this step are M3x10 (6 pcs).
    • Place parts on the frame as shown in the picture.

    • Note the frame orientation (PRUSA logo has to be visible).

    • All screws in this step are M3x10 (6 pcs).

    • Use 2.5mm Allen key to tighten the parts to the frame.

    • Tighten them gently, no superhuman force required.

    • Note: If you have troubles tightening the screws, try to place them from the other side of the frame to clean the thread. Then place them again from the previous side. Proceed with caution, or you might break the screw.

  4. Remove the trapezoid nuts from the motors. Screw covers fully on both motor screws. Covers should be screwed fully to the motor, but not too tight! The motor should keep spinning freely.
    • Remove the trapezoid nuts from the motors.

    • Screw covers fully on both motor screws.

    • Covers should be screwed fully to the motor, but not too tight! The motor should keep spinning freely.

  5. Place the Z motors on the frame. Z motor left (labeled with Z axis left )
    • Place the Z motors on the frame.

    • Z motor left (labeled with Z axis left )

    • Z motor right (labeled with Z axis right )

    • Ensure the correct position of the motors (left/right).

    • Ensure the wires are not pinched between the motor and holder (see detailed photo).

  6. Use M3x10 screws (8 pcs) and M3w washers (8 pcs). Use 2.5mm Allen key to tighten the motor to the printed part.
    • Use M3x10 screws (8 pcs) and M3w washers (8 pcs).

    • Use 2.5mm Allen key to tighten the motor to the printed part.

  7. Insert M3 nuts (4 pcs) in the printed parts as shown in the picture. Nuts orientation does not matter.
    • Insert M3 nuts (4 pcs) in the printed parts as shown in the picture.

    • Nuts orientation does not matter.

  8. Use M3x12 screws (4 pcs) to tighten nuts in place. Use 2.5mm hex spanner to tighten the screws.
    • Use M3x12 screws (4 pcs) to tighten nuts in place.

    • Use 2.5mm hex spanner to tighten the screws.

  9. In the following steps, use the shortest rods (320 mm).
    • In the following steps, use the shortest rods (320 mm).

  10. Insert Z-rods (the shortest ones) inside the Z-axis-bottom parts. Insert Z-rods (the shortest ones) inside the Z-axis-bottom parts. Insert Z-rods (the shortest ones) inside the Z-axis-bottom parts.
    • Insert Z-rods (the shortest ones) inside the Z-axis-bottom parts.

  11. Carefully slide X-axis on rods and trapezoid screws. By rotating both screws simultaneously let X-axis to slide until both trapezoid screws are exposed as in the picture. Insert X-axis very carefully, perfectly in axis with the bearings and with minimal force. Insert X-axis very carefully, perfectly in axis with the bearings and with minimal force.
    • Carefully slide X-axis on rods and trapezoid screws. By rotating both screws simultaneously let X-axis to slide until both trapezoid screws are exposed as in the picture.

    • Insert X-axis very carefully, perfectly in axis with the bearings and with minimal force.

  12. Place parts on the frame as in the picture. Use 2.5mm hex spanner to tighten the parts to the frame. Check both leadscrews in the upper part of printer, they shouldn't touch the edges of printed part. If so, release the motor holder at the bottom and slightly move it.
    • Place parts on the frame as in the picture.

    • Use 2.5mm hex spanner to tighten the parts to the frame.

    • Check both leadscrews in the upper part of printer, they shouldn't touch the edges of printed part. If so, release the motor holder at the bottom and slightly move it.

    • All screws in this step are M3x10 (4 pcs).

  13. Insert the zipties in the holes at the bottom of the frame. Tie the cables to the frame as shown in the picture. Note that the left Z-motor cables are tied with the last ziptie.
    • Insert the zipties in the holes at the bottom of the frame.

    • Tie the cables to the frame as shown in the picture.

    • Note that the left Z-motor cables are tied with the last ziptie.

  14. Use pliers and cut the excess ziptie.
    • Use pliers and cut the excess ziptie.

    • Note the position of the connecting ziptie.

  15. Grab the Y-axis assembly in your hand and slide it into the frame. You should be able lift the constructed printer as a whole. Tighten the M10n nuts to the frame.
    • Grab the Y-axis assembly in your hand and slide it into the frame. You should be able lift the constructed printer as a whole.

    • Tighten the M10n nuts to the frame.

    • Ensure that there is a washer between a nut and the frame on both sides.

    • Ensure the correct orientation of the Y-axis assembly and the frame (longer part should be on the side with motors).

  16. Insert the flat part of X-GT2 belt (longer one)  into the X-carriage as in the picture. A reference video is included at step 25 covering steps 16-24.
    • Insert the flat part of X-GT2 belt (longer one) into the X-carriage as in the picture.

    • A reference video is included at step 25 covering steps 16-24.

  17. Guide the belt around the pin as shown in the picture. Insert the belt all the way into the belt holder as shown in the picture.
    • Guide the belt around the pin as shown in the picture.

    • Insert the belt all the way into the belt holder as shown in the picture.

    • Note that there is no belt going out of the X-carriage, it's IMPORTANT.

  18. Guide the X-axis belt through X-end-idler, around the 623h bearing with the housing and back. Guide the X-axis belt through X-end-idler, around the 623h bearing with the housing and back.
    • Guide the X-axis belt through X-end-idler, around the 623h bearing with the housing and back.

  19. Guide the X-axis belt through the X-carriage.
    • Guide the X-axis belt through the X-carriage.

  20. Guide the X-axis belt through the X-end-motor, around GT2-16 pulley and back. Guide the X-axis belt through the X-end-motor, around GT2-16 pulley and back.
    • Guide the X-axis belt through the X-end-motor, around GT2-16 pulley and back.

  21. Remove the M3x18 screws. Rotate the motor counter-clockwise as shown in the picture.
    • Remove the M3x18 screws.

    • Rotate the motor counter-clockwise as shown in the picture.

    • This step is illustrative, you don't need to remove the frame.

  22. Use pliers to tighten up the X-axis belt.
    • Use pliers to tighten up the X-axis belt.

    • Insert the flat part of belt as shown in the picture.

  23. Guide the belt around the pin as shown in the picture. Push the belt all the way into the X-carriage.
    • Guide the belt around the pin as shown in the picture.

    • Push the belt all the way into the X-carriage.

    • The belt shouldn't be tight at the moment.

  24. Rotate the motor back
    • Rotate the motor back

    • Screw in the removed M3x18 screws

    • If you have to apply too much force and are experiencing troubles, rotate the motor back, repeat previous step while making the belt more loose.

    • The belt should be quite tight, it should 'ping' like a music string.

    • This step is illustrative, you don't need to remove the frame.

    • Insert the flat part of X-GT2 belt (longer one) into the X-carriage, around the pin. Guide the X-axis belt through X-end-idler, around the 623h bearing with the housing and back. Guide the X-axis belt through the X-carriage. Guide the X-axis belt through the X-end-motor, around GT2-16 pulley and back.

    • Remove the two M3x18 screws. Rotate the motor counter-clockwise.

    • Insert the flat part of the belt around the pin.

    • Rotate the motor back. Screw in the removed M3x18 screws.

    • Video is available in an online (digital) version only.

  25. Gently tighten both screws until slight force is applied on both smooth rods.
    • Gently tighten both screws until slight force is applied on both smooth rods.

  26. Congratulations! You've just assembled the Z-axis.
    • Congratulations! You've just assembled the Z-axis.

    • You can continue by assembling the Extruder in the next chapter - 5. Extruder Assembly

Finish Line

223 other people completed this guide.

Josef Prusa

Member since: 01/05/2015

142 Guides authored

Team

Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

Community

3 Members

364 Guides authored

13 Comments

Well, to 3:

The screw-threads do not really fit. I have to use "superpower" to screw the screws and one has broken. I hope 2 tight screws are enough? It seems to me, that 2 screws are enought.

:-/ if not please write me an email, maybe be with an suggestion?

I would drill a new hole and use an screw and a screw-nut.

clauschrude - Reply

Every thing is fine and printing ;-)

clauschrude -

It seems that the frame is tapped and powder-coated. In that order. All the threaded holes on my frame had powder-coat paint inside and I was not able to screw the machine screws in without using unreasonable force. I was afraid of shearing the head off the screw or stripping the thread in the hole. To fix I ran an M3 tap through all the threaded holes on the frame to clear out the paint.

Matthew Kendall - Reply

etape 10 Preparing the Z-rods

Insert Z-rods (the shortest ones) inside the Z-axis-bottom parts. i cannot insert Z-rods the rods (320mmm) .

I can not insert the rods (320mm) which a diameter of 8mm inside the Z-axis-bottom parts because the diameter of the hole is 7.30 mm.

What should I do ? Then I enlarge the hole it seems difficult to me because side of the axis filleter there is little matter and the risk is to open the separation.

Thank you for your advice.

Good to You

Daniel Maire

France

Maire - Reply

READ READ READ: If the screws are not going in for you, DO NOT attempt to put them all the way in. You WILL snap a screw off inside the frame and it is a huge pain to get out. Go to the hardware store and get an M3 or 3mm tap bit and tap the threads. On current makes of the printer (December '16- January '17, it seems) there is powder coating left over inside the screw holes that can make it almost impossible to work with. Multiple people have had this issue. In extreme cases, you can completely destroy some parts of the fame and your own screws.

Again, be warned if you proceed!

Thomas Bladykas - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 4

Past 7 Days: 67

Past 30 Days: 316

All Time: 49,275