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  1. Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in. Note your extruder is slightly different, but the principle of setting the height is the same. Don't place the steel sheet on the heatbed during the entire P.I.N.D.A. probe adjustment process. Wait for the Z calibration.
    • Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in.

    • Note your extruder is slightly different, but the principle of setting the height is the same.

    • Don't place the steel sheet on the heatbed during the entire P.I.N.D.A. probe adjustment process. Wait for the Z calibration.

    • While moving with the extruder, the X-axis motor works as a generator. You will create a small amount of electricity and the LCD might flicker. Move with the extruder reasonably slowly and in the future always use the printer's controls.

    • Move the extruder manually all the way to the left.

    • By rotating BOTH threaded rods at the same time on the Z-axis move the nozzle until you reach the heatbed. Try rotating both the rods equally!

    • Check again from a different angle the nozzle is touching slightly the heatbed. Don't bend the heatbed!

  2. Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right. Make sure that the nozzle is not scratching the surface during the movement! If it does, rise the right side of the X-axis by rotating the right Z motor slightly clockwise.
    • Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right.

    • Make sure that the nozzle is not scratching the surface during the movement! If it does, rise the right side of the X-axis by rotating the right Z motor slightly clockwise.

    • If an adjustment is needed, you can lower the nozzle height by rotating the right Z motor counter-clockwise.

  3. Move the extruder to the centre of the X-axis. Take a zip tie from the package and place it under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Use the middle part of the zip tie, not the tip. Release the screw holding the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and gently press it against the zip tie.
    • Move the extruder to the centre of the X-axis.

    • Take a zip tie from the package and place it under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Use the middle part of the zip tie, not the tip.

    • Release the screw holding the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and gently press it against the zip tie.

    • Tighten the screw on the P.I.N.D.A. holder again.

    • !!! DO NOT use glue to fix P.I.N.D.A. probe in the new type of holder with the M3 screw, you won't be able to release it again !!!

    • A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the last picture.

  4. IMPORTANT!!! There are two types of the firmware for the MMU2. Make sure you can distinguish between them. Slic3r PE won't let you accidentally flash incorrect firmware to each board.
    • IMPORTANT!!! There are two types of the firmware for the MMU2. Make sure you can distinguish between them.

    • Slic3r PE won't let you accidentally flash incorrect firmware to each board.

    • EINSy/RAMBo firmware: This firmware is flashed to the board, which is inside the black RAMBo box near the heatbed. Use USB type B cable. (e.g. FW_MK3-EINSy10a.hex or FW_MK25-RAMBo13a_cz.hex)

    • MMU2 board firmware: This firmware is flashed to the new board, which is inside MMU2 unit on the top of the frame. Use Micro-USB cable. (e.g. prusa3d_fw_MMU2board_1_0_1.hex)

  5. Firmware updater is now part of the Slic3r PE, starting version 1.41.0. In case you have it already installed, you can skip to the next step.
    • Firmware updater is now part of the Slic3r PE, starting version 1.41.0. In case you have it already installed, you can skip to the next step.

    • Go to prusa3d.com/drivers and select the MMU 2.0 printer.

    • Find the driver section and download the latest package. Leave this page opened for the next step!

    • Install drivers on your Windows, macOS or Linux system.

    • Part of the driver's package is Slic3r PE, which includes a tool for firmware upgrade.

  6. Go back to prusa3d.com/drivers to get the firmware for your printer.
    • Go back to prusa3d.com/drivers to get the firmware for your printer.

    • Download the zip file with the firmware for the MMU2 to your computer and unzip it.

    • Note there are two types of the firmware for the MMU2.

    • To flash the firmware, the printer must be plugged and turned on!

    • For the MK2.5 MMU2 use firmware combo 3.4.2 and 1.0.2 or latest.

  7. Open Slic3r PE and from the menu select Configuration ->Flash Printer Firmware Connect the printer to your computer using the bundled USB cable and select it from the menu. Hit Rescan if the printer is not on the list Select the firmware file on your harddrive (*.hex). Do not place the firmware on a network share.
    • Open Slic3r PE and from the menu select Configuration ->Flash Printer Firmware

    • Connect the printer to your computer using the bundled USB cable and select it from the menu. Hit Rescan if the printer is not on the list

    • Select the firmware file on your harddrive (*.hex). Do not place the firmware on a network share.

    • Hit the Flash button.

    • Wait until the process is completed. You can click on "Advanced: ..." to see the flashing process including detailed log.

    • When the flashing process is done, you will be informed.

    • We're done here! Your printer is ready to rock ;)

    • In case of issues with flashing the firmware please visit our troubleshooting article.

  8. Before you leave Slic3r PE, please add the MMU2 printer profiles!!! From the top menu select Configuration -> Configuration Wizard Look for the MMU2 options and select your printer
    • Before you leave Slic3r PE, please add the MMU2 printer profiles!!!

    • From the top menu select Configuration -> Configuration Wizard

    • Look for the MMU2 options and select your printer

    • Click Next, then Finish.

    • Expand the printer's menu and check if the MMU2 option is present. If not, please repeat the process again.

  9. Place the spool holder at least 40 cm (15.75 inches) behind the back of the printer. Look at the printer from behind and take the PTFE tube closest to the right edge of the MMU unit. Slide the tube in the filament guide, all the way through. Leave about 1 mm sticking on the other side.
    • Place the spool holder at least 40 cm (15.75 inches) behind the back of the printer.

    • Look at the printer from behind and take the PTFE tube closest to the right edge of the MMU unit.

    • Slide the tube in the filament guide, all the way through. Leave about 1 mm sticking on the other side.

    • Take a M3x10 screw (from the spoolholder assembly) and screw it inclined slightly in the holder, just 3-4 turns should be enough. This will prevent the PTFE tube from slipping out.

    • Take a piece of the 1.75 mm filament and check if the tube isn't deformed. If you feel resistance, slightly release the M3x10 screw.

    • In case you have more spool holders, arrange them next to the first one in a similar distance to the printer.

  10. Before we load the filament, let's fire up the printer. Plug the printer in and switch the button to the "ON" position. The PSU switches automatically between 110 and 230 V. Wait for the printer to finish initialisation.
    • Before we load the filament, let's fire up the printer.

    • Plug the printer in and switch the button to the "ON" position. The PSU switches automatically between 110 and 230 V.

    • Wait for the printer to finish initialisation.

    • Have a look at the top of the MMU unit, there are three black buttons:

    • Left button moves the selector to the left

    • Middle button starts the filament load

    • Right button moves the selector to the right

    • There are five LEDs on the MMU unit, each indicates a filament state. The arrangement of the LEDs corresponds to the arrangement of the PTFE tubes.

  11. Using the left button (press & hold), move the selector all the way to the left. Press and hold the middle button to start the filament loading procedure. Notice the LED will switch from the green to flashing red. This process won't end until filament is detected or procedure cancelled by the user.
    • Using the left button (press & hold), move the selector all the way to the left.

    • Press and hold the middle button to start the filament loading procedure. Notice the LED will switch from the green to flashing red.

    • This process won't end until filament is detected or procedure cancelled by the user.

    • Before loading the filament, make a quick check, the tip should be sharp and first 5-7 cm of the filament must be straight. If the filament is bent, please straighten it.

  12. Move behind the printer and place the spool with filament behind the spool holder. Make sure the filament will unwind as indicated. Guide the filament through the filament guide and into the PTFE. As soon as you reach the MMU unit, the pulleys will take care of the filament loading. When the filament reaches the filament sensor (F.I.N.D.A.) it will retract slightly back and the LED will turn green.
    • Move behind the printer and place the spool with filament behind the spool holder. Make sure the filament will unwind as indicated.

    • Guide the filament through the filament guide and into the PTFE. As soon as you reach the MMU unit, the pulleys will take care of the filament loading.

    • When the filament reaches the filament sensor (F.I.N.D.A.) it will retract slightly back and the LED will turn green.

    • Place the spool in the holder. Consider this filament loaded.

    • To load remaining filaments, repeat the previous and this step.

    • Almost there!

  13. IMPORTANT: Before you proceed to the first layer calibration, please enter the service menu and check that all five filaments are loaded properly to the extruder.
    • IMPORTANT: Before you proceed to the first layer calibration, please enter the service menu and check that all five filaments are loaded properly to the extruder.

    • Please follow this guide: Service menu - Individual Filament Calibration

    • After a successful calibration, return to this chapter and continue with the next step.

  14. Put back the steel sheet and clean it with IPA to remove dust and grease. First, run the Calibrate Z to make sure the X-axis is absolutely level!
    • Put back the steel sheet and clean it with IPA to remove dust and grease.

    • First, run the Calibrate Z to make sure the X-axis is absolutely level!

    • Then run the 1st layer calibration as we moved with the P.I.N.D.A.

    • It's done, your MMU2 upgrade is ready!!! Awesome job ;)

  15. It's over, eat the remaining bears and enjoy your MMU2. For start print the included G-codes.
    • It's over, eat the remaining bears and enjoy your MMU2. For start print the included G-codes.

    • We hope you've enjoyed this build, see you in the next one ;)

  16. See our free 3D Printing Handbook - prusa3d.com/3dhandbookMMU2
  17. You can start by printing some of our test objects - you can check them out here: prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models You can start by printing some of our test objects - you can check them out here: prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models You can start by printing some of our test objects - you can check them out here: prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models
  18. In case of any troubles during the prints, please check the following: Troubleshooting tips are part of the Handbook: prusa3d.com/3dhandbookMMU2 There are several online guides: MMU2 Troubleshooting
  19. Did you print all the bundled multi-material models from us? Time to print your own designs!
    • Did you print all the bundled multi-material models from us? Time to print your own designs!

    • Basic steps are described in our section: MMU2 Creating models and G-codes

  20. If you encounter any problems at all, don't forget you can always check out our knowledge base at http://help.prusa3d.com. We're adding new topics every day!
    • If you encounter any problems at all, don't forget you can always check out our knowledge base at http://help.prusa3d.com. We're adding new topics every day!

  21. If you need help with the build, check out our forum with great community :-)
Finish Line

50 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

225 Guides authored

Team

Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

Community

3 Members

367 Guides authored

4 Comments

Hi, I’m Aaron from Winter Garden, Florida, USA.

I’ve completed my build of the MK3 with MMU 2.0 and am more than happy. I’m amazed! I’m almost done building an enclosure based on the IKEA Lack tables.

If you’re in need of a testimony from America or some information about my custom Lack enclosure, I’d love to help. I never see videos from America about Prusa, the MK3 with MMU 2.0, or multimaterial prints.

Thanks for this awesome guide, it had everything you need to get printing. Happy Printing!

Aaron Green - Reply

I have been working on a custom lack enclosure for MMU2 as well. Curious how you are handling spool holders.

Larry Robinson -

Hi Aaron, I'm glad you've enjoyed the build and regarding lack enclosure, for sure share details in our community, so other users can benefit :)

We have a special MMU2 section here: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/user-mods...

Jakub Dolezal -

Step1: If you had upgraded the extruder before receiving MMU2, you can go to step 4

Philip de Lang - Reply

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