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  1. Needle-nose pliers for the heatbed assembly
    • Needle-nose pliers for the heatbed assembly

    • 2.5mm Allen key for M3 screws

    • 2mm Allen key for heatbed alignment

  2. For the following step please prepare: Heatbed MK52 24V (1x)
    • For the following step please prepare:

    • Heatbed MK52 24V (1x)

    • Power cable (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • M3/3,2/9/0,8 washer (2x)

    • M3nN nylock nut (2x)

    • IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to connect the power cable correctly. Before you start the assembly have a look at the pins. The one on the left with "GND" sign must be connected to the BLACK WIRE.

  3. Place the black wire above the pin with "GND" sign. Make sure you are using the rounded connector. Place the washer above the rounded cable connector. Press the M3x10 screw through all parts.
    • Place the black wire above the pin with "GND" sign. Make sure you are using the rounded connector.

    • Place the washer above the rounded cable connector.

    • Press the M3x10 screw through all parts.

    • Hold the screw and carefully turn the heatbed upside down.

    • Place the M3nN nut on the top of the M3 screw and tighten it slightly.

    • Turn the heatbed back, using pliers and Allen key tighten the screw. We need to adjust cable position in the next step, therefore do not tighten the screw too firmly.

    • Repeat this procedure for the second (red) wire.

  4. Before proceeding further, please check again the cable is connected correctly to the heatbed. BLACK wire must be connected to the "GND" RED wire must be connected to the "VCC"
    • Before proceeding further, please check again the cable is connected correctly to the heatbed.

    • BLACK wire must be connected to the "GND"

    • RED wire must be connected to the "VCC"

    • The cable cover, which will be applied later requires the connectors to be slightly inclined towards each other. Press them gently, but leave a gap between them.

    • Design of your heatbed might slightly differ from the last picture.

    • Now, tighten both screws using the Allen key and the pliers.

  5. Before you continue with the assembly, find the cable cover in your package. Take a closer look. There are two version:
    • Before you continue with the assembly, find the cable cover in your package. Take a closer look. There are two version:

    • New design with circular holes in the top part. The smaller part has hexagonal holes. Please follow Step 6

    • Old design with hexagonal holes in the top part. The smaller part has circular holes. Please follow Step 14

  6. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • Heatbed MK52 (1x)

    • Textile sleeve 5 x 300 mm (1x)

    • M3n nut (2x)

    • M3nN nyloc nut (1x)*

    • M3x10 screw (3x)

    • Heatbed-cable-cover (2x)

    • *Your bag with fasteners should include three M3nN nyloc nuts. If you are missing one, please use the spare bag.

  7. Take the smaller part and insert M3n nuts.
    • Take the smaller part and insert M3n nuts.

    • Use the screw pulling technique.

    • Keep this part for later use (Step 10).

  8. Place the bigger heatbed-cable-cover next to the heatbed. See the hole, which has to match the one on the heatbed. Now, place the cover on the heatbed and align it. Use the M3x10 and push it through the cover.
    • Place the bigger heatbed-cable-cover next to the heatbed. See the hole, which has to match the one on the heatbed.

    • Now, place the cover on the heatbed and align it.

    • Use the M3x10 and push it through the cover.

  9. Hold the screw with your thumb and flip the heatbed upside down.
    • Hold the screw with your thumb and flip the heatbed upside down.

    • Use M3nN nyloc nut and tighten the screw.

    • Use pliers and Allen key to tighten the nut with the screw.

  10. Do not stretch the black thermistor cable, leave some slack under the heatbed, so when the heatbed moves during print, the cable won't get stretched resulting in disconnection from the centre of the heatbed. However, the slack shouldn't be causing the cable to sag down more than few millimetres. Otherwise, the cable might rub against the printer's frame and damage itself! Turn the heatbed upside-down to check this. Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).
    • Do not stretch the black thermistor cable, leave some slack under the heatbed, so when the heatbed moves during print, the cable won't get stretched resulting in disconnection from the centre of the heatbed.

    • However, the slack shouldn't be causing the cable to sag down more than few millimetres. Otherwise, the cable might rub against the printer's frame and damage itself! Turn the heatbed upside-down to check this.

    • Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).

  11. Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by wrapping a few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover. When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.
    • Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by wrapping a few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover.

    • When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.

    • Before you continue with wrapping the sleeve, we need to fix it in the cable cover. Please proceed to the next step.

  12. Take the smaller cover you have prepared earlier and place it like in the picture. Make sure the thermistor cable is in the middle going through a cutout in the printed part!!! Otherwise, you will pinch and possibly break the cable!!! Hold the cover and flip the heatbed back. Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.
    • Take the smaller cover you have prepared earlier and place it like in the picture.

    • Make sure the thermistor cable is in the middle going through a cutout in the printed part!!! Otherwise, you will pinch and possibly break the cable!!!

    • Hold the cover and flip the heatbed back. Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.

    • Don't tighten the screw completely on one side and then on the other (see the second picture)!

    • Your tightened cover should look like the last picture.

  13. Now, finish wrapping the cable into the textile sleeve.
    • Now, finish wrapping the cable into the textile sleeve.

    • When done, slightly twist the sleeve (not the cables inside). The sleeve will evenly wrap all around the cable bundle.

    • You can skip to Step 21

  14. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • Heatbed MK52 (1x)

    • Textile sleeve 5 x 300 mm (1x)

    • M3n nut (3x)

    • M3x10 screw (3x)

    • Heatbed-cable-cover (2x)

  15. Insert M3n nuts in the printed part. In case you can't press the M3n nut in, don't use excessive force. Take the M3 bolt and  thread it from the opposite side of the printed part, as you tighten the screw, it will pull the nut in. Be careful not the break the printed part during tightening. In case the power cable is fixed by screws (not soldered) the heatbed-cable-cover slightly differs from the picture, but the following assembly process is identical.
    • Insert M3n nuts in the printed part.

    • In case you can't press the M3n nut in, don't use excessive force. Take the M3 bolt and thread it from the opposite side of the printed part, as you tighten the screw, it will pull the nut in. Be careful not the break the printed part during tightening.

    • In case the power cable is fixed by screws (not soldered) the heatbed-cable-cover slightly differs from the picture, but the following assembly process is identical.

  16. Place the heatbed-cable-cover on the heatbed to cover the soldered cables and LED. Tighten the cover to the heatbed using M3x10 screw and Allen key. Be careful not to pinch (break) any wires from the heatbed!
    • Place the heatbed-cable-cover on the heatbed to cover the soldered cables and LED.

    • Tighten the cover to the heatbed using M3x10 screw and Allen key. Be careful not to pinch (break) any wires from the heatbed!

  17. Do not stretch the black/white thermistor cable, leave some slack under the heatbed, so when the heatbed moves during print, the cable won't get stretched resulting in disconnection from the centre of the heatbed. However, the slack shouldn't be causing the cable to sag down more than few millimetres. Otherwise, the cable might rub against the printer's frame and damage itself! Turn the heatbed upside-down to check this. Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).
    • Do not stretch the black/white thermistor cable, leave some slack under the heatbed, so when the heatbed moves during print, the cable won't get stretched resulting in disconnection from the centre of the heatbed.

    • However, the slack shouldn't be causing the cable to sag down more than few millimetres. Otherwise, the cable might rub against the printer's frame and damage itself! Turn the heatbed upside-down to check this.

    • Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).

    • The thermistor cable is in black or white colour, their functionality is the same.

  18. Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover. When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.
    • Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover.

    • When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.

    • Before you continue with wrapping the sleeve, we need to fix it in the cable cover. Please proceed to the next step.

  19. Place second part of the cover on the top of the  textile sleeve. Make sure the thermistor cable is in the middle going through a cutout in the printed part!!! Otherwise, you will pinch and possibly break the cable!!! Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.
    • Place second part of the cover on the top of the textile sleeve.

    • Make sure the thermistor cable is in the middle going through a cutout in the printed part!!! Otherwise, you will pinch and possibly break the cable!!!

    • Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.

    • Don't tighten the screw completely on one side and then on the other (see the second picture)!

    • Your tightened cover should look like the last picture.

  20. Now, finish wrapping the cable into the textile sleeve.
    • Now, finish wrapping the cable into the textile sleeve.

    • When done, slightly twist the sleeve (not the cables inside). The sleeve will evenly wrap all around the cable bundle.

  21. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • M3x14b screw (9x) / M3x12b screw (9x)

    • Due to update in manufacturing process, your kit might come with 12mm screws instead of 14 mm. Functionality remains unchanged.

    • 6x6x3t spacer (9x)

  22. Push the Y-carriage to the front and place the Heatbed behind. Locate a hole in the centre of the Y-carriage. Place one spacer on the top of the hole.
    • Push the Y-carriage to the front and place the Heatbed behind.

    • Locate a hole in the centre of the Y-carriage.

    • Place one spacer on the top of the hole.

    • The exact position of the spacer will be adjusted in the next step.

  23. Push the Allen key through the middle hole on the Heatbed and place it above the spacer. Use the Allen key to align all parts. After the alignment insert the M3x12b(14b) screw instead. Tighten the screw just slightly.
    • Push the Allen key through the middle hole on the Heatbed and place it above the spacer. Use the Allen key to align all parts.

    • After the alignment insert the M3x12b(14b) screw instead.

    • Tighten the screw just slightly.

  24. Move to the right side of the heatbed. Place another spacer with the pliers. Push the pliers between the heatbed and the Y-carriage.
    • Move to the right side of the heatbed.

    • Place another spacer with the pliers.

    • Push the pliers between the heatbed and the Y-carriage.

    • Use the Allen key to align the spacer.

    • After the alignment insert the screw instead and tighten it slightly.

  25. Using pliers insert spacers and screw into the remaining holes. DON'T fully tighten the screws. After all screws are in place, tighten them in the following order:
    • Using pliers insert spacers and screw into the remaining holes. DON'T fully tighten the screws.

    • After all screws are in place, tighten them in the following order:

    • Center screw

    • First four screws (edges)

    • Last four screws (corners)

  26. This check is valid only for the old design (screw oriented upwards).
    • This check is valid only for the old design (screw oriented upwards).

    • Let's make sure the cables from the hotend aren't in contact with the heatbed.

    • By rotating the threaded rods (anticlockwise) at the same time, lower manually the X-axis down until the nozzle is almost touching the heatbed.

    • In case the P.I.N.D.A. sensor touches the bed before the nozzle, move it up slightly.

    • Ensure there is a gap between the screw in the heatbed and the surface of the hotend cables. The gap should be 2-3 millimetres, the steel sheet will add another 1 mm.

    • In case the cables are rubbing against the screw, adjust them (push them up in the extruder)

    • In case you are unable to adjust the cables, unscrew the M3x10 screw and use a spare M3n nut to shorten the length of the thread. Then place the screw back.

  27. For the following steps, please prepare: 24V power supply (1x)
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • 24V power supply (1x)

    • Power panic cable (1x)

    • power cable (2x)

    • M4x10r screw with dome head (2x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • The PSU is designed to work worldwide and automatically switch to the local voltage.

    • The cable terminals (connectors) have a different width, make sure you follow the instructions. The blue terminals won't fit the Einsy board.

  28. Turn the back of the printer towards you and locate the PSU holders. Insert M3x10 screws into them. Make only 3-4 turns, it should be enough to hold the PSU for now. Take the PSU and place it above the screws. Adjust the span of the PSU holders. Slide the PSU on the screws and tighten them, but not too firmly. We need to adjust the position in the next steps.
    • Turn the back of the printer towards you and locate the PSU holders. Insert M3x10 screws into them. Make only 3-4 turns, it should be enough to hold the PSU for now.

    • Take the PSU and place it above the screws. Adjust the span of the PSU holders.

    • Slide the PSU on the screws and tighten them, but not too firmly. We need to adjust the position in the next steps.

    • Make sure you can slide with the PSU up and down.

    • The screws should be able to hold the PSU in a "vertical" position for now.

  29. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS, there is a risk of DEFORMING THE FRAME! Insert M4 screws in both holes in the frame. Adjust the position of the PSU, there are holes in the casing, which must align with the holes in the frame. By default the PSU is lower than needed, pull it slightly up.
    • FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS, there is a risk of DEFORMING THE FRAME!

    • Insert M4 screws in both holes in the frame.

    • Adjust the position of the PSU, there are holes in the casing, which must align with the holes in the frame. By default the PSU is lower than needed, pull it slightly up.

    • Tighten the M4 screws but not too firmly, wait for the next instruction.

    • Before tightening the M4 screws, make sure the PSU is pressed against the printer (aluminium extrusion) and also in direct contact with the vertical frame.

    • Everything aligned? Tighten the M4 screws.

    • Now, tighten the M3 screws connecting the PSU with the extrusion.

  30. WARNING: Triple-check you have connected the cables correctly!!! There is a risk of damaging the PSU or the printer itself, if the cables are connected incorrectly or not tightened properly!!!
    • WARNING: Triple-check you have connected the cables correctly!!! There is a risk of damaging the PSU or the printer itself, if the cables are connected incorrectly or not tightened properly!!!

    • Make sure the bent part of the cable connector is always facing up!!! Use the side with the blue cover. These connectors are slightly wider and won't fit in the Einsy board.

    • Note that the polarity on the PSU is:

    • Positive

    • Positive

    • Negative

    • Negative

    • Keep this in mind while connecting the cables! The next step shows the correct wiring of the cables.

  31. Release the screw on the FIRST (positive) slot from the left. Take the first power cable and choose the RED wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector. Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.
    • Release the screw on the FIRST (positive) slot from the left.

    • Take the first power cable and choose the RED wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

    • Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

    • Release the screw on the THIRD (negative) slot from the left.

    • Take the same cable and choose the BLACK wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

    • Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

    • Check the connection again! Red wire is in the first slot and black in the third.

  32. Release the screw on the SECOND (positive) slot from the left. Take the second cable and choose the RED wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector. Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.
    • Release the screw on the SECOND (positive) slot from the left.

    • Take the second cable and choose the RED wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

    • Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

    • Release the screw on the FOURTH (negative) slot from the left.

    • Take the same cable and choose the BLACK wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

    • Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

    • Check the connection again! Red wire is in the second slot and black in the fourth.

  33. Take the Power panic cable and connect it to the PSU. Both ends of the cable are the same, use any. Gently bend the Power panic cable and place it close to the power cables. Be careful as you might snap the entire connector from the board, keep that in mind until the printer is fully assembled, don't pull the cable.
    • Take the Power panic cable and connect it to the PSU. Both ends of the cable are the same, use any.

    • Gently bend the Power panic cable and place it close to the power cables. Be careful as you might snap the entire connector from the board, keep that in mind until the printer is fully assembled, don't pull the cable.

    • Guide the cables to the other side of the printer. We will fix them to the frame later on.

    • Don't place the cover on the PSU, wait for the next chapter.

  34. Slightly harder chapter, but have 10 %. We need to keep more for the next.
    • Slightly harder chapter, but have 10 %. We need to keep more for the next.

  35. You're getting closer! Just one more chapter and the assembly is done!
    • You're getting closer! Just one more chapter and the assembly is done!

    • Check the final look, compare it to the picture.

    • Don't place the steel sheet on the heatbed yet. Wait for the instructions in the Wizard during the calibration process.

    • Ready for the last assembly part? 8. Electronics assembly

Finish Line

808 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

224 Guides authored

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Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

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3 Members

366 Guides authored

3 Comments

Might want to start checking the PSU mounting gaps for the 3x10 screws before they ship. Mine were too narrow and would not slide onto the screws.

A little filing opened it up enough, but might cause some complaints with other customers.

Mark Lamb - Reply

Hello Mark, thank you for the feedback. Perhaps the screws were tilted a bit and that prevented an easy slide.

Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

I also could not get the screws on without using an Exacto to scrape off some paint. I could not force the screw into the slots when I had the PU removed from the machine and pushed on both sides of the screw at the same time - not a tilt issue on mine.

Gerald Bracken - Reply

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