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  1. Needle-nose pliers for the heatbed assembly
    • Needle-nose pliers for the heatbed assembly

    • 2.5mm Allen key for M3 screws

    • 2mm Allen key for heatbed alignment

  2. For the following step please prepare: Heatbed MK52 24V (1x)
    • For the following step please prepare:

    • Heatbed MK52 24V (1x)

    • Power cable (1x)

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • M3/3,2/9/0,8 washer (2x)

    • M3nN nylock nut (2x)

    • IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to connect the power cable correctly. Before you start the assembly have a look at the pins. The one on the left with "GND" sign must be connected to the BLACK WIRE.

  3. Place the black wire above the pin with "GND" sign. Make sure you are using the rounded connector. Place the washer above the rounded cable connector. Press the M3x10 screw through all parts.
    • Place the black wire above the pin with "GND" sign. Make sure you are using the rounded connector.

    • Place the washer above the rounded cable connector.

    • Press the M3x10 screw through all parts.

    • Hold the screw and carefully turn the heatbed upside down.

    • Place the M3nN nut on the top of the M3 screw and tighten it slightly.

    • Turn the heatbed back, using pliers and Allen key tighten the screw. We need to adjust cable position in the next step, therefore do not tighten the screw too firmly.

    • Repeat this procedure for the second (red) wire.

  4. Before proceeding further, please check again the cable is connected correctly to the heatbed. BLACK wire must be connected to the "GND" RED wire must be connected to the "VCC"
    • Before proceeding further, please check again the cable is connected correctly to the heatbed.

    • BLACK wire must be connected to the "GND"

    • RED wire must be connected to the "VCC"

    • The cable cover, which will be applied later requires the connectors to be slightly inclined towards each other. Press them gently, but leave a gap between them.

    • Design of your heatbed might slightly differ from the last picture.

    • Now, tighten both screws using the Allen key and the pliers.

  5. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • Heatbed MK52 (1x)

    • Textile sleeve 5 x 300 mm (1x)

    • M3n nut (3x)

    • M3x10 screw (3x)

    • Heatbed-cable-cover (2x)

  6. Insert M3n nuts in the printed part. In case you can't press the M3n nut in, don't use excessive force. Take the M3 bolt and  thread it from the opposite side of the printed part, as you tighten the screw, it will pull the nut in. Be careful not the break the printed part during tightening. In case the power cable is fixed by screws (not soldered) the heatbed-cable-cover slightly differs from the picture, but the following assembly process is identical.
    • Insert M3n nuts in the printed part.

    • In case you can't press the M3n nut in, don't use excessive force. Take the M3 bolt and thread it from the opposite side of the printed part, as you tighten the screw, it will pull the nut in. Be careful not the break the printed part during tightening.

    • In case the power cable is fixed by screws (not soldered) the heatbed-cable-cover slightly differs from the picture, but the following assembly process is identical.

  7. Place the heatbed-cable-cover on the heatbed to cover the soldered cables and LED. Tighten the cover to the heatbed using M3x10 screw and Allen key. Be careful not to pinch (break) any wires from the heatbed!
    • Place the heatbed-cable-cover on the heatbed to cover the soldered cables and LED.

    • Tighten the cover to the heatbed using M3x10 screw and Allen key. Be careful not to pinch (break) any wires from the heatbed!

  8. Do not stretch the black/white thermistor cable, leave some slack under the heatbed, so when the heatbed moves during print, the cable won't get stretched resulting in disconnection from the centre of the heatbed. However, the slack shouldn't be causing the cable to sag down more than few millimetres. Otherwise, the cable might rub against the printer's frame and damage itself! Turn the heatbed upside-down to check this. Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).
    • Do not stretch the black/white thermistor cable, leave some slack under the heatbed, so when the heatbed moves during print, the cable won't get stretched resulting in disconnection from the centre of the heatbed.

    • However, the slack shouldn't be causing the cable to sag down more than few millimetres. Otherwise, the cable might rub against the printer's frame and damage itself! Turn the heatbed upside-down to check this.

    • Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).

    • The thermistor cable is in black or white colour, their functionality is the same.

  9. Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover. When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.
    • Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover.

    • When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.

    • Before you continue with wrapping the sleeve, we need to fix it in the cable cover. Please proceed to the next step.

  10. Place second part of the cover on the top of the  textile sleeve. Make sure the thermistor cable is in the middle going through a cutout in the printed part!!! Otherwise, you will pinch and possibly break the cable!!! Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.
    • Place second part of the cover on the top of the textile sleeve.

    • Make sure the thermistor cable is in the middle going through a cutout in the printed part!!! Otherwise, you will pinch and possibly break the cable!!!

    • Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.

    • Don't tighten the screw completely on one side and then on the other (see the second picture)!

    • Your tightened cover should look like the last picture.

  11. Now, finish wrapping the cable into the textile sleeve.
    • Now, finish wrapping the cable into the textile sleeve.

    • When done, slightly twist the sleeve (not the cables inside). The sleeve will evenly wrap all around the cable bundle.

  12. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • M3x14b screw (9x) / M3x12b screw (9x)

    • Due to update in manufacturing process, your kit might come with 12mm screws instead of 14 mm. Functionality remains unchanged.

    • 6x6x3t spacer (9x)

  13. Push the Y-carriage to the front and place the Heatbed behind. Locate a hole in the centre of the Y-carriage. Place one spacer on the top of the hole.
    • Push the Y-carriage to the front and place the Heatbed behind.

    • Locate a hole in the centre of the Y-carriage.

    • Place one spacer on the top of the hole.

    • The exact position of the spacer will be adjusted in the next step.

  14. Push the Allen key through the middle hole on the Heatbed and place it above the spacer. Use the Allen key to align all parts. After the alignment insert the M3x12b(14b) screw instead. Tighten the screw just slightly.
    • Push the Allen key through the middle hole on the Heatbed and place it above the spacer. Use the Allen key to align all parts.

    • After the alignment insert the M3x12b(14b) screw instead.

    • Tighten the screw just slightly.

  15. Move to the right side of the heatbed. Place another spacer with the pliers. Push the pliers between the heatbed and the Y-carriage.
    • Move to the right side of the heatbed.

    • Place another spacer with the pliers.

    • Push the pliers between the heatbed and the Y-carriage.

    • Use the Allen key to align the spacer.

    • After the alignment insert the screw instead and tighten it slightly.

  16. Using pliers insert spacers and screw into the remaining holes. DON'T fully tighten the screws. After all screws are in place, tighten them in the following order:
    • Using pliers insert spacers and screw into the remaining holes. DON'T fully tighten the screws.

    • After all screws are in place, tighten them in the following order:

    • Center screw

    • First four screws (edges)

    • Last four screws (corners)

  17. Let's make sure the cables from the hotend aren't in contact with the heatbed.
    • Let's make sure the cables from the hotend aren't in contact with the heatbed.

    • By rotating the threaded rods at the same time, lower manually the X-axis down until the nozzle is almost touching the heatbed.

    • In case the P.I.N.D.A. sensor touches the bed before the nozzle, move it up slightly.

    • Ensure there is a gap between the screw in the heatbed and the surface of the hotend cables. The gap should be 2-3 millimetres, the steel sheet will add another 1 mm.

    • In case the cables are rubbing against the screw, adjust them (push them up in the extruder)

  18. For the following steps, please prepare:
    • For the following steps, please prepare:

    • 24V Power supply with cover (1x)

    • M4x10r screw with dome head (2x)

    • Make sure you are using M4 screws, different screws might cause issues!!!

    • M3x10 screw (2x)

    • The PSU switches between 110 V and 220 V automatically.

  19. Locate four mounting points on the YZ frame. Place the PSU on the frame and secure it with the M4x10r screws. Don't tighten them completely.
    • Locate four mounting points on the YZ frame.

    • Place the PSU on the frame and secure it with the M4x10r screws. Don't tighten them completely.

  20. Slide the PSU holders under the PSU cover. Secure the PSU with two M3x10 screws. Don't tighten them completely. You want  to be able to move the PSU on the mount to properly line up the other mount. Re-seat the PSU and then tighten all four screws.
    • Slide the PSU holders under the PSU cover.

    • Secure the PSU with two M3x10 screws. Don't tighten them completely. You want to be able to move the PSU on the mount to properly line up the other mount.

    • Re-seat the PSU and then tighten all four screws.

  21. Slightly harder chapter, but have 10 %. We need to keep more for the next.
    • Slightly harder chapter, but have 10 %. We need to keep more for the next.

  22. You're getting closer! Just one more chapter and the assembly is done!
    • You're getting closer! Just one more chapter and the assembly is done!

    • Check the final look, compare it to the picture.

    • Don't place the steel sheet on the heatbed yet. Wait for the instructions in the Wizard during the calibration process.

    • Ready for the last assembly part? 8. Electronics assembly

Finish Line

300 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

225 Guides authored

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Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

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