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  1. 2 and 2.5 mm Allen key
    • 2 and 2.5 mm Allen key

    • Needle-nose pliers

  2. Spool holder
    • Spool holder

    • Heatbed cable cover

  3. M4x10 with dome head (2 pcs)
    • M4x10 with dome head (2 pcs)

    • 12V/240W Power supply with cover

  4. Using 2.5mm Allen key, tie the PSU to the frame.
    • Using 2.5mm Allen key, tie the PSU to the frame.

  5. M3x18 screws (2 pcs) M3w washers (2 pcs)
    • M3x18 screws (2 pcs)

    • M3w washers (2 pcs)

    • M3n nuts (2 pcs)

    • Insert M3n nuts in PSU-Y-part nut traps.

    • To insert nuts inside traps, you can use similar "on screw" technique as for the extruder assembly. For more go back to 1. Introduction, Step 7.

  6. Using 2.5mm Allen key, tie the PSU-Y-part to the PSU-cover. If there is a gap, use the screws to contract it.
    • Using 2.5mm Allen key, tie the PSU-Y-part to the PSU-cover.

    • If there is a gap, use the screws to contract it.

  7. Guide the low voltage cables from the PSU under the threaded rods to the other side of the frame as shown in the picture. Tie the low voltage power cables to both threaded rods.
    • Guide the low voltage cables from the PSU under the threaded rods to the other side of the frame as shown in the picture.

    • Tie the low voltage power cables to both threaded rods.

    • Do not tighten them too much, otherwise you can damage cable insulation.

  8. Check the switch position on the side of the PSU if it's in correct position. Make sure that the power supply is not connected to mains!
    • Check the switch position on the side of the PSU if it's in correct position.

    • Make sure that the power supply is not connected to mains!

    • Correct position means that the switch is on the side with your mains voltage. (If you have 110/120 V mains [mostly America] the switch has to be on the left, if you have 220/230 V [Europe and the rest of the world] the switch should be on the right ).

    • You can change the switch position with flathead screwdriver.

    • This is very important part, if the power supply is configured incorrectly it can be damaged!

  9. If you assembled the optional nuts on the  Y-belt holder screws, you have to remove them.
    • If you assembled the optional nuts on the Y-belt holder screws, you have to remove them.

    • Remove the M3 nuts highlighted in the picture.

  10. M3x8r screws (4 pcs)
    • M3x8r screws (4 pcs)

    • Heatbed comes with the print surface (yellowish foil) already sticked on so DO NOT REMOVE IT and take extra care to prevent damaging the surface.

  11. Using 2mm Allen key, tie the heatbed to the Y-carriage. Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!
    • Using 2mm Allen key, tie the heatbed to the Y-carriage.

    • Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!

    • The screws should fit directly to the threads, if not, you could have turned the Y-carriage upside down, see Chapter 2 for the correct assembly.

  12. Tighten the Y-belt holder to the heatbed using the supplied 2.5 mm Allen key. Make sure that the screws are screwed into the heatbed and no space is left between the nut on the heatbed and the Y-carriage.
    • Tighten the Y-belt holder to the heatbed using the supplied 2.5 mm Allen key.

    • Make sure that the screws are screwed into the heatbed and no space is left between the nut on the heatbed and the Y-carriage.

    • Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!

    • If you have the Y-belt-holder with a slot, make sure that the screws are in the middle as shown in the picture.

  13. M3x8r screw (1 pc)
    • M3x8r screw (1 pc)

    • M3 nut (1 pcs)

    • Note the white cable from the heatbed can be also in black version, however their function is the same (see the second photo).

  14. Insert M3n nut in place.
    • Insert M3n nut in place.

  15. Take the piece of filament that came with the parts ( length cca 30 cm ).
    • Take the piece of filament that came with the parts ( length cca 30 cm ).

    • Push it all the way down in the filament holder hole in the heat bed cable cover. If you experience difficulties when inserting the filament use pliers to make a sharp tip on the filament.

    • The filament is for whole harness support. Don't cut it, it'll go all the way with the wires to the electronics.

  16. Tighten the part to the heatbed using 2 mm Allen key.
    • Tighten the part to the heatbed using 2 mm Allen key.

  17. Use the spiral wrap and wrap nylon with the cables from the heatbed. DO NOT cut the filament, you'll need the full length.
    • Use the spiral wrap and wrap nylon with the cables from the heatbed.

    • DO NOT cut the filament, you'll need the full length.

    • Note the white cable can be also in black version, see Step 13. second picture.

  18. Slide spiral wrap into the holder in the heatbed cable cover and secure it in place using a ziptie. Slide spiral wrap into the holder in the heatbed cable cover and secure it in place using a ziptie.
    • Slide spiral wrap into the holder in the heatbed cable cover and secure it in place using a ziptie.

  19. Take a look on the printer from the top side and make sure that lines on heatbed are perfectly parallel with the X axis rods as shown in the picture. If they are not in parallel position, use 17 mm wrench to adjust the M10 nuts to get it correct. Use nuts only on the side close to left Z axis motor.
    • Take a look on the printer from the top side and make sure that lines on heatbed are perfectly parallel with the X axis rods as shown in the picture.

    • If they are not in parallel position, use 17 mm wrench to adjust the M10 nuts to get it correct. Use nuts only on the side close to left Z axis motor.

    • This is extremely important, if the things are not in parallel, you'll have huge troubles calibrating later on!

    • If you'll adjust the nuts, make sure that the M10 threaded rod is all the way down in the slot.

  20. Assemble the Spool-holders to the top of the frame as shown in the picture.
    • Assemble the Spool-holders to the top of the frame as shown in the picture.

    • Almost there! You're one step before finish! Continue by connecting the electronics in the next chapter - 8. Electronics assembly

Finish Line

217 other people completed this guide.

Josef Prusa

Member since: 01/05/2015

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10 Comments

There seems to be a kind of protection on top of the heat bed I don't see on th pictures, but I don't dare to remove it... Wh do I have it ad don't see it mentioned?

Michael Bock - Reply

The steps about the frame being 100mm down the threaded rods should make it clear that if the PSU bracket doesn't line up they will have to move it. Perhaps suggest using the PSU as a guide to check the alignment. Maybe even temporarily bolting it on while they line up the frame.

Mitch Allen - Reply

This was my problem too. I thought I'd measured out 100mm properly, but I was off by a decent amount, which meant unbolting the frame, adjusting the ribbon cables from the LCD screen, and making some pretty significant movements

Dustin Woodward -

I just don't see the switch inside that hole. And the picture is not showing anything either. Am I missing it? I don't know whether the PS is set on 220 or 110V.

Retel Tulio - Reply

Photo showing the 110 - 220V switch is useless. The switch is quite hidden inside that hole. You can easily move something that is not the switch. I did. Bummer.

Retel Tulio - Reply

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