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  1. Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in. While moving with the extruder, the X-axis motor works as a generator. You will create a small amount of electricity and the LCD might flicker. Move with the extruder reasonably slowly and in the future always use the printer's controls. Move the extruder manually all the way to the left.
    • Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in.

    • While moving with the extruder, the X-axis motor works as a generator. You will create a small amount of electricity and the LCD might flicker. Move with the extruder reasonably slowly and in the future always use the printer's controls.

    • Move the extruder manually all the way to the left.

    • By rotating BOTH threaded rods at the same time on the Z-axis move the nozzle until you reach the heatbed. Try rotating both the rods equally!

    • Check again from a different angle the nozzle is touching slightly the heatbed. Don't bend the heatbed!

    • Don't place the steel sheet on the heatbed during the entire P.I.N.D.A. probe adjustment process. Wait for the XYZ calibration.

    in the i note shouldn’t that say extruder rather than probe?

    Geoff Butcher - Reply

    Hi Geoff, yes you are partly right. We are currently moving with the extruder, but the aim of this chapter is to adjust the probe.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I used a piece of paper and lowered the Z axis until the nozzle touched the paper and the paper was a friction fit under the nozzle. I left the paper in place when adjusting the height of the PINDA probe.

    Howard Watkins

    Howard Watkins - Reply

  2. Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right. Make sure that the nozzle is not scratching the surface during the movement! If it does, rise the right side of the X-axis by rotating the right Z motor slightly clockwise.
    • Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right.

    • Make sure that the nozzle is not scratching the surface during the movement! If it does, rise the right side of the X-axis by rotating the right Z motor slightly clockwise.

    • If an adjustment is needed, you can lower the nozzle height by rotating the right Z motor counter-clockwise.

    I was struggling to get the nozzle touching the bed at the left and right without scraping when I moved it from side to side. I can see now that the heatbed is pretty warped from left to right - it’s slightly arched upwards. If I lay a steel rule across and push it down on the left I can see a clear gap underneath it on the right. Not sure whether this is within acceptable tolerance (looks like about 0.5mm) but it’s a bit disappointing. There’s no visible warping front to back.

    It’s not clear how I can complete P.I.N.D.A. calibration since I can’t follow the instructions above…

    Jon - Reply

    Hi Jon, this magnitude of warping is too much. Please check again all the screws on the heatbed are tightened, the Y-axis is seated correctly and evenly. If it still fails, please contact our support at info@prusa3d.com.

    Jakub Dolezal -

  3. Move the extruder to the centre of the X-axis. Take a zip tie from the package and place it under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Use the middle part of the zip tie, not the tip. Release the screw holding the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and gently press it against the zip tie.
    • Move the extruder to the centre of the X-axis.

    • Take a zip tie from the package and place it under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Use the middle part of the zip tie, not the tip.

    • Release the screw holding the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and gently press it against the zip tie.

    • Tighten the screw on the P.I.N.D.A. holder again. Proceed carefully as you might break the holder!

    • !!! DO NOT use glue to fix P.I.N.D.A. probe in the new type of holder with the M3 screw, you won't be able to release it again !!!

    • A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the last picture.

    The newly designed Pinda mount is susceptible to breakage more than the previous version was. Warning about this should be mentioned.

    Chad Rice - Reply

    Hi Chad, thanks for the comment I will highlight this in the description, we also strengthen the design already.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I'll second that, the PINDA mount is terrible, mine broke with very little force. The supplied cheap nasty PET doesn't help either.

    Paul Rapson - Reply

    Hi Paul, can you please describe what was wrong with the PETG? We've tested it several months prior to sending it to you.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    With the PINDA probe being as high as the thickness of the ziptie, my printer would later catch the paper during XYZ calibrations, soi had to lower it quite a bit. Not a problem at all, just a heads-up.

    Roland Grichnik - Reply

    You still haven’t added that the Pinda mount is susceptible to breakage and only to nip it ever so slightly. It really is poor and you should highlight this as you promised.

    Ali Mac - Reply

    Hi Ali, it is in the manual already, see the chapter five, step 27. This is your first encounter with the sensor and you are asked to proceed gently as you might break it.

    Jakub Dolezal -

  4. Go to www.prusa3d.com/drivers and download latest PRUSA3D drivers for your printer.
  5. YOU MUST UPDATE YOUR FIRMWARE to MK2.5 version, otherwise your printer won't work !!!
    • YOU MUST UPDATE YOUR FIRMWARE to MK2.5 version, otherwise your printer won't work !!!

    • Download the zip file and extract it, the firmware file (*.hex file) is inside.

    • Updating firmware for the first time? Here is a step by step guide: Upgrading the firmware v1.6

    “Development build!! - May destroy printer ! ver 3.1.3-RC1-276 prusa3d/MK25”

    Wow! Really!??!

    Alex Tutusaus - Reply

    Also, you may want to add a “DO A FACTORY RESET -> ERASE ALL DATA” before trying anything else… Using “MK2S” settings may have issues with the new bed/extruder info….

    Alex Tutusaus - Reply

    The firmware automatically reset all my settings on first boot with the MK2.5 version anyway, so I think they have this covered.

    Joe H -

    March 21, 2018 - firmware 3.1.3 is out for the MK2.5

    Jim Jacques - Reply

    Since the Firmware upgrade manual probably assumes you want to upgrade the firmware on your printer that is already connected and printing (and not coming from disassembly and reassambly again), I think it might be a good thing to mention that the printer’s power supply has to be connected at this point.

    I only connected the USB at this point for the firmware update, which would always throw me connection errors to the board (even though it was listed as a COM port, so it was powered at least). As soon as I plugged in the power supply as well, the flashing process actually worked.

    (If that should still have worked with just the USB plugged in, please disregard my comment, that just seemd to be what fixed it for me.)

    Roland Grichnik - Reply

    In case there are any other numpties like me out there, I think it’s worth highlighting the importance of choosing the correct .hex file. From the long list of nearly identical file names, I used prusa3d_fw_3_3_1__RAMBO10a_de.hex rather than prusa3d_fw_3_3_1__RAMBO13a_de.hex and just ended up with the alarm sounding continuously and a blank LCD. I wasted a lot of time rechecking the wiring and feared I’d fried my board (stupid mistake, I know).

    PHMain@aol.com - Reply

    I can’t see an English hex file in the list of hex files.

    Joe O. - Reply

    I figured out that all the hex files are in English with an alternative language. So I did the de and it went fine. All updated.

    Joe O. -

  6. Please watch our New User Guide before printing. http://www.prusa3d.com/buildvideoMK3
    • Please watch our New User Guide before printing. http://www.prusa3d.com/buildvideoMK3

    • This video is describing features of Original Prusa i3 MK3, but your Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 shares some of them as well.

    The noise the new pinda probe makes when passing over a point surprised me :)

    William Frazier - Reply

  7. Based on the examination of printers received back from the customers, we compiled a list of the most common problems causing poor print quality. Check them out and improve your 3D prints today!
    • Based on the examination of printers received back from the customers, we compiled a list of the most common problems causing poor print quality. Check them out and improve your 3D prints today!

    • Check the video here: https://youtu.be/Lsa-PXAXdKY

    • For other tips and tutorials go to: https://help.prusa3d.com/

  8. See our free 3D Printing Handbook - https://www.prusa3d.com/3dhandbookMK25 Read the chapters 3.2 Disclaimer and 3.3 Safety instructions
    • See our free 3D Printing Handbook - https://www.prusa3d.com/3dhandbookMK25

    • Read the chapters 3.2 Disclaimer and 3.3 Safety instructions

    • Read the chapter 6.2 Setup before printing.

    • Download and install the drivers - chapter 9 Printer drivers. Don't forget we have ready to print settings for Slic3r PE.

    • Calibrate the printer by following the chapter 6.2.1 Calibration flow and wizard. Please follow the steps exactly, otherwise you can permanently damage the print surface!

    “Calibration flow and wizard” is chapter 6.2.1, not 6.3.1

    Ben Gruver - Reply

    Hi Ben, corrected thanks :)

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Calibration and Wizard should be a step, not a ‘Warning’

    Chad Rice - Reply

    Hi Chad, it is warning on purpose to highlight the text and warn users about possible damage to the printer.

    Jakub Dolezal -

  9. Read the chapter 7 Printing of 3D Printing Handbook.
    • Read the chapter 7 Printing of 3D Printing Handbook.

    • Congratulations! You should be ready to print by now ;-)

    • You can start by printing some of our test objects bundled on the included SD card - you can check them out here prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models

  10. If you encounter any problems at all, don't forget you can always check out our knowledge base at http://help.prusa3d.com. We're adding new topics every day!
    • If you encounter any problems at all, don't forget you can always check out our knowledge base at http://help.prusa3d.com. We're adding new topics every day!

  11. If you need help with the build, check out our forum with great community :-)
Finish Line

60 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

235 Guides authored

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12 Comments

The PINDA probe is set up on the heatbed without the build plate? I was just wanting to double check that.

Alec Murchie - Reply

Correct. Set it up without the build plate.

Jake Block -

Hi Alec, yes.. keep the plate away until asked in the Wizard to place it on the printer.

Jakub Dolezal -

I had severe problems with adhesion to the new print bed. Cleaning it with 99.5% IPA did not help. A good rub with acetone did the trick though.

I would assume that the build plates comes “ready to print”, but not so in my case.

Christoffer Å - Reply

Hi Christoffer, as soon as the PEI foil is applied on the steel sheet it gets packed in the protective bag. Cleaning with IPA should be enough. Are you sure your live adjust Z is set properly? Also sometimes the material might be the problem.

Jakub Dolezal -

BIG problem. After checking RAMBO wiring “multiple” times and speaking to tech that said to check wiring (dis so again, even using MK2S manual to check ALL cables, I turn on printer and STILL get temp error 736 degrees and a loud whistle. Would go to chat again but have been unable to find it. Went to forum and saw I was not the only one that this happened to. No reply to his post as of yet.

Merrill Albury - Reply

Hi Merill, I replied to the forum and alerted the support team, my colleagues will get in touch with you.

Jakub Dolezal -

I am having problems with filament leaking out of the nozzle, curling, and globbing as the preheat is taking place. As the extruded is getting into position, I must continually wipe off the excess or the print is affected.

Joe O. - Reply

Just got done with live chat. Wonderful ! I did the PIND calibration and now there is minimal “leaking”.

Joe O. -

Could we get a PINDA height in an actual measurement? Some of us have proper tools such as feeler gauges. In fact if you own a 3D printer and don’t have feeler gauges then you need to buy them period.

Charles Larson - Reply

Hey Charles,

There is no need to own the feeler gauge, but it’s a nice addition. You can measure the thickness of zip tie using calipers, that will get you the approximate correct height for this step.

Filip M - Official Prusa CS -

I’m having issues with this part.  Is the nozzle touching the bed or slightly above it?  If I do it with the nozzle touching, the XYZ calibration tugs at the paper which if I’m following the instructions, tells me to turn off the printer.  Need some clarification on where the nozzle needs to be for this part.

JYip - Reply

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