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  1. 2.5mm Allen key
    • 2.5mm Allen key

    • Needle-nose pliers

  2. Rambo-cover-base
    • Rambo-cover-base

    • Rambo-cover-door

    • Rambo-cover-hinge top

    • Rambo-cover-hinge bottom

    • Casing parts can slightly differ from pictures.

  3. Insert M3n nuts (4 pcs) in nut traps. Insert M3nS (1 pcs) Insert M3nS (1 pcs)
    • Insert M3n nuts (4 pcs) in nut traps.

    • Insert M3nS (1 pcs)

  4. M3x10 screws (2 pcs) M3x10 screws (2 pcs)
    • M3x10 screws (2 pcs)

  5. In the next step, use highlighted holes.
    • In the next step, use highlighted holes.

  6. Slide X-axis cables through the Rambo cover while attaching the Rambo cover base to the frame as shown in the picture. The spiral wrap must run into the Rambo cover so it is held in place when tightened up. Tighten the Rambo cover base to the frame using supplied 2.5 mm spanner.
    • Slide X-axis cables through the Rambo cover while attaching the Rambo cover base to the frame as shown in the picture.

    • The spiral wrap must run into the Rambo cover so it is held in place when tightened up.

    • Tighten the Rambo cover base to the frame using supplied 2.5 mm spanner.

  7. In the next step use the highlighted hole.
    • In the next step use the highlighted hole.

  8. Tighten Rambo cover hinge bottom to the frame using one M3x10 screw and supplied 2.5 mm Allen key. Tighten Rambo cover hinge bottom to the frame using one M3x10 screw and supplied 2.5 mm Allen key.
    • Tighten Rambo cover hinge bottom to the frame using one M3x10 screw and supplied 2.5 mm Allen key.

  9. M3x10 screws (4 pcs) Slide the electronics into the Rambo cover base and secure the board in place using M3x10 screws.
    • M3x10 screws (4 pcs)

    • Slide the electronics into the Rambo cover base and secure the board in place using M3x10 screws.

    • Note the correct orientation of electronics and the Rambo cover base.

  10. X-axis motor Y-axis motor Z-axis motors (the order of Z-motors doesn't matter )
    • X-axis motor

    • Y-axis motor

    • Z-axis motors (the order of Z-motors doesn't matter )

    • X-axis endstop

    • Y-axis endstop

    • Low voltage main cables (wires going out from PSU)

    • All motor cables have their marking for easier assembly.

    • Connect cables and arrange cables as shown in the picture. Check all connectors are properly plugged!

  11. Guide the cables from the heatbed through the bottom hole of the Rambo cover base. Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.
    • Guide the cables from the heatbed through the bottom hole of the Rambo cover base.

    • Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.

  12. Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the heatbed to the  Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Ensure the heatbed connector is plugged correctly and all the way in.
    • Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the heatbed to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.

    • Ensure the heatbed connector is plugged correctly and all the way in.

    • Double check the zip tie is tied firmly, there is a lot of movement.

  13. Guide the cables from the extruder through the upper hole of the Rambo cover base. Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.
    • Guide the cables from the extruder through the upper hole of the Rambo cover base.

    • Push the filament all the way down through the filament holder hole in the Rambo cover base.

  14. Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap. Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.
    • Using a ziptie, tie the cables from the extruder to the Rambo cover base at the end of the spiral wrap.

  15. P.I.N.D.A. probe Extruder motor Heatbed heater
    • P.I.N.D.A. probe

    • Extruder motor

    • Heatbed heater

    • Extruder heater

    • DOUBLE CHECK the connection! It is so important to ensure the correct connections.

  16. Extruder thermistor (cable going from the extruder labeled with Yellow/Green heat shrink) [Orientation does not matter] Heatbed thermistor (white or black cable going from the heatbed)
    • Extruder thermistor (cable going from the extruder labeled with Yellow/Green heat shrink) [Orientation does not matter]

    • Heatbed thermistor (white or black cable going from the heatbed)

    • Print fan (cable going from the extruder labeled with Red heat shrink)[make sure that the red wire is closer to the thermistor]

    • Extruder fan (cable going from the extruder labeled with Blue heat shrink)

    • DOUBLE CHECK the connection! It is important to ensure the correct connections!

  17. LCD cable with ONE stripe (Connector P1) LCD cable with TWO stripes (Connector P2)
    • LCD cable with ONE stripe (Connector P1)

    • LCD cable with TWO stripes (Connector P2)

    • Make sure that the key of connector is matching the key on the electronics.

  18. Check your electronics connection with the attached picture.
    • Check your electronics connection with the attached picture.

  19. In the next step use the highlighted hole.
    • In the next step use the highlighted hole.

  20. M3x10 screw (1 pcs) Rambo-cover upper hinge Insert M3x10 screw into the hinge.
    • M3x10 screw (1 pcs)

    • Rambo-cover upper hinge

    • Insert M3x10 screw into the hinge.

    • Move the heatbed all the way towards the LCD for easier access.

    • Assemble the Rambo-cover doors on the lower hinge attached to the frame and slide the upper hinge in place.

    • Secure the upper hinge to the frame.

  21. M3x40 screw (1 pcs) Close the Rambo-cover doors
    • M3x40 screw (1 pcs)

    • Close the Rambo-cover doors

    • Make sure that no wire is pinched!

    • Tighten M3x40 screw.

  22. Congratulations, you've just assembled the whole Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer!
    • Congratulations, you've just assembled the whole Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer!

    • You're almost there... Just finish the chapter 9. Preflight check

Finish Line

206 other people completed this guide.

Josef Prusa

Member since: 01/05/2015

142 Guides authored

Team

Prusa Research Member of Prusa Research

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364 Guides authored

27 Comments

The printer has had many good improvements, and this is one of them, however, I still think this housing (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1102368) is better than the new one for the MK2. It seems sturdier because the cables for the heated bed and extruder are really hold up in place. Maybe a downside of this housing is that it requires and awful lot of screws, probably more than needed.

Lamps - Reply

i didn´t had any issues builduing the printer, the two mistakes i did was to blame the beer i had in my other hand. i was sent two extra m10 nuts in the Y axis bolts bag. apart from that, a little 90 mins getting the Z axis well done. nice build, nice instructions, online works better than the printed book, but, i have to say i have build a few aluminatus from trinitylabs, and the previous iterations pf the prusa from makerfarm (wooden) and i have to say this printer i s pretty well done, it is one of the best kits out there. well documented and precise to build. i had a snapoff with the extruder temp sensor because i curled too much the cables housing but i soldered straight and it is back on business. one thing is y was really used to print on 3mm filament and i have like...6 kg still in my 3d box. can i just put an hexagon hotend? or is there an e3d extruder version on 3mm? also i really want an extruder temperature sensor replacement. and another thing. can the marlin firmware glass sensors be used?

felipe valdivia - Reply

Using only different colour boxes and arrows for identifying which cables go where will make it hard for colourblind people to know what to do. You could use coloured numbers or letters instead/as well as. There are also colour palettes available that are colourblindness friendly, there is an example here http://jfly.iam.u-tokyo.ac.jp/color/#see

John Cummings - Reply

I agree with the color legend not working for the colorblind... I had to have my son and wife differentiate the colors in a few places.

Devon Heron -

I am not colorblind and still had trouble with the color coding , though I was working out of the book where the shades of red, especially, seem closer than the online manuals . I ended up going through and numbering the items and also each time the item was color-keyed in the pictures for reference.

Marianne Davis -

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