1. Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in.
    • Ensure the printer is turned off and not plugged in.

    • While moving with the extruder, the X-axis motor works as a generator. You will create a small amount of electricity and the LCD might flicker. Move with the extruder reasonably slowly and in the future always use the printer's controls.

    • Move the extruder manually all the way to the left.

    • By rotating BOTH threaded rods at the same time on the Z-axis move the nozzle until you reach the heatbed. Try rotating both the rods equally!

    • Check again from a different angle the nozzle is touching slightly the heatbed. Don't bend the heatbed!

    • Don't place the steel sheet on the heatbed during the entire P.I.N.D.A. probe adjustment process. Wait for the XYZ calibration.

    I think this step should specify that the Spring Steel Bed should NOT be attached. Thanks!

    Ocie Ward - Reply

    Hi Ocie, thanks for the suggestion. Until now, there was no indication in the manual to apply the steel sheet. Also in the pictures you can see there is no steel sheet on the heatbed. Follow the calibration process and you will be asked to place the sheet on the heatbed.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    A good reason to mention the Steel Bed is for when people will refer back to the manual If they need to perform this adjustment again once the printer is assembled or if/when they add on the MMU. People will not go through the entire manual to look up one section about adjustment procedures.

    James Slater - Reply

    Hi James, description updated. Thanks

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Perhaps first add: Ensure the Pinda probe is above the nozzle level (loosen the screw if necessary) - we will make the final adjustment later.

    Andreas Sjolund - Reply

    Yes, that is needed indeed.

    Levent Alpsal -

    Andreas, good point. Thanks ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

    yes, great point, please add this tip! before I came across this comment I was scratching my head in doubt what to do…

    Artem -

    All of the suggestions should be added. I bought my Prusa assembled, but my Z is off after doing a firmware update. So don’t assume someone read the pages before this one as I was directed to this page to determine the PINDA adjustment. I wasn’t directed to read the chapter before this.

    greg mesh - Reply

    If you place a piece of paper under the nozzle and adjust the height until the paper is held with some friction, you then know the nozzle is touching the paper and bed. Then adjust the Pinda probe, also using the paper. The important measurement is nozzle height to Pinda height, so the paper does not affect this.

    Howard Watkins - Reply

    Thank you Howard, I think this may have helped me. I had a hard time knowing if the nozzle was right at the hot bed. Paper helped me get it dialed in a little closer on both sides I think by slowly adjusting each side to where the paper moved. Not an absolute, but I think it helped me get it to a better place than visual would. Could kind of feel the ‘bumps’ when moving the X motor both ways, but I think the paper method worked better for me. Will continue on and see…

    Gregory Thomson -

    Excellent idea with the sheet of paper, you can then use it like a “feeler gauge”.

    Should be added!

    Gary Walker -

    “Then adjust the Pinda probe, also using the paper. “

    Can you please elaborate what you mean by this? I thought that you have to use a zip tie to set the Pinda height? Sorry if I am confused ;)

    CustomCreations -

    When I move my X axis to the left, the LCD screen starts flickering, with no power cable connected. I’m assuming the X axis motor is backfeeding power when you manually move the extruder because it’s acting like a generator. Is this normal / expected?

    Nadim Nakhleh - Reply

    Hi Nadim, yes you turn the motor into a generator. Move it slowly and nothing will happen.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Same observation as Nadim. Both the X-axis and the Y-axis generate enough voltage to lit up the LCD screen. A warning should be added, if a quick move can generate enough voltage to damage the electronics.

    Nikolaos Tsarmpopoulos - Reply

    Hi Nikolaos, warning will be added, but if you proceed according to the instructions, no damage will occur.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Help! My z-axis calibration does not fail but when I print first layer the nozzle doesn’t lower itself to the print bed. It’s 1 or 2 mm above and the filiment ‘falls’ from the nozzle. Live-z does not seem to lower the nozzle until the number is -1.878, supposedly well beyond the -1 mm mentioned in the manual. Also, my Filament detect fails. I may have damaged the PCB because my wiring is good. It was in it’s slot but loose, wobbly and I thought maybe the sensor is not lined up with the hole. I tightened the screw until tight but then I could see the bottom of the screw head. I figured it would print without filament detect so I continued. Is that true? How do I order another PCB? Tom Heinz

    Tom Heinz - Reply

    Hi Tom, try lowering the PINDA probe first (just slightly). If it doesn't solve your problem with the calibration, then please contact our support at info@prusa3d.com . Filament sensor has to be tightened properly, see the assembly guide, chapter 5. If the issues persist, please contact our support as well.

    Jakub Dolezal -

  2. Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right.
    • Move the extruder carefully all the way to the right.

    • Make sure that the nozzle is not scratching the surface during the movement! If it does, rise the right side of the X-axis by rotating the right Z motor slightly clockwise.

    • If an adjustment is needed, you can lower the nozzle height by rotating the right Z motor counter-clockwise.

    Why not use a piece of printer paper under the nozzle (and the zip tie later)? When you move the nozzle in X it should be low enough to drag the paper along but you should be able to hold it in place without the nozzle making marks or tearing the paper.

    Hans Nygaard - Reply

    Hi Hans, for this step you need to ensure the X-axis is levelled. That is why you’re asked to check the distance nozzle-heatbed on both edges of the heatbed. Paper can be used, but it is an extra, you will be ok without it for now.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    One way to make sure you’re not scratching the bed is to slightly lift the right side by rotating the leadscrew back a bit. Then move the extruder to the right side and lower it until it touches the bed. Then start moving horizontally. My opinion is that this step should be designed in such a way to avoid this eye-balling the nozzle touching the bed… that’s not a very precise way to it.

    Florian Ford - Reply

    manually moving the extruder via x or y moderately fast is causing the lcd to flicker

    Andrew Dalton - Reply

    Same, here LCD flickers…perhaps it’s ok?

    Jay Collett - Reply

    Hi Jay, flickering is ok as the movement of the Extruder generates electricity.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    My platform seems to be a tiny tiny bit bent, where the sides are a minuscule bit lower than the middle, will this be a problem?

    Thomas - Reply

    Is the middle fastened enough? Spacers all in place?

    Klaas -

    Hi Thomas, check all the heatbed screws are tightened properly. Finish this chapter and run the XYZ calibration, if you run into issues, please contact our support at info@prusa3d.com.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    When my extruder is at the end of it's travel to the right, it's actually hovering off the side of the print bed by a few millimeters. Is this the way it's designed or I assemble something incorrectly?

    343 Guilty Spark - Reply

    That is ok, the range of the X-axis is slightly bigger than the size of the heatbed.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Just like Thomas (see above) my platform is also very slightly bent. When in the middle of the bed having the nozzle to just touch a single sheet of paper, at the all 4 sides I need four pieces of paper to get the same amount of friction.

    All spacers are in place, all screws fastened. Removed the heat bed to see if anything was pushing it up in the middle but no luck. Installed it again, same problem.

    Any advice? (haven’t run the XYZ calibration yet).

    HugoB - Reply

    By the way: thickness of paper used: 0.1mm per sheet.

    HugoB -

    XYZ calibration thought nothing about it and said the bed is perpendicular!

    HugoB -

    Hi,

    My X-axis is not parallel to the bed. I have about a 2mm difference between the left and right side. The bed is closer on the right side. Should I continue with the next step, or try to fix the X-axis first before continuing?

    Thank you.

    Erik Comtois - Reply

    Hi there Erik, this can be caused by two problems: 1) double check that your X-axis is perpendicular to the Z-frame. 2) make sure that all of the screws are securing the heatbed in its place. If you are not able to find the problem yourself, please contact our live chat at shop.prusa3d.com.

    Tomáš -

    • Move the extruder to the centre of the X-axis.

    • Take a zip tie from the package and place it under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. Use the middle part of the zip tie, not the tip.

    • Release the screw holding the P.I.N.D.A. sensor and gently press it against the zip tie.

    • Tighten the screw on the P.I.N.D.A. holder again.

    • !!! DO NOT use glue to fix P.I.N.D.A. probe in the new type of holder with the M3 screw, you won't be able to release it again !!!

    • A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the last picture.

    There are no zip ties in the spare parts package. But there are plenty left in the zip tie bag, so i used one of them.

    Michael Stegen - Reply

    Hi Michael, step description updated ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I actually damaged my PEI surface on my mk2s build because of this recommendation to use a zip tie as a spacer/measuring tool. The same won't happen here since you do the initial calibration without the steel sheet installed (could be worse here if you did manage to crash the nozzle into the pcb though), but I would still suggest going by the 3rd image showing a front perspective of the relative gaps and just setting the position visually.

    Steven Underwood - Reply

    Always err on the side of caution. ITs better to have the pinda closer to the bed than higher. Too high, it will crash into the bed and ruin your day. You can always easy up on it later if you have to use a lot of negative Live Z adjustment to get your filament to stick.

    Joe Bruno - Reply

    On my Mk2, I measured the Zip tie and came up with 0.975mm when the recommended height was 1.2mm. Because of a slight bed warping, that caused my first print calibration to continually fail, I backed off the height over that point (right rear) to 1.0 mm and I was able to calibrate and print.

    James Slater - Reply

    How hard I need to turn the points screw? I did not tighten it to hard but the plastic holder banded and I’m afraid it will break in future.

    יוסי שלי - Reply

    Hi, the screw should be tightened so the probe doesn’t move. No need to overtighten the screw as you might break the printed part.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    So, now that the P.I.N.D.A. is set to the correct hight, what is next exactly? Should the Z-axis be moved up again or can the selftest be started with the Z-axis in the lowest position? Perhaps it should actually be in this position for the selftest to work? Missing a bit of detail here I’m afraid.

    Jeroen - Reply

    Hi Jeroen, regarding the next step, see the video (Step 4) and follow the 3D Handbook. As for now there is no need to adjust the Z-axis manually ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I used one of the pieces of excess length trimmed from a zip tie.

    Bruce Moore - Reply

    Are we to assume that the nozzle is touching the pcb during this step or is it just slightly above? Could we do the step of pinda probe height with a piece of paper underneath to protect the nozzle/pcb from getting damaged?

    Since the paper would go under both the pinda and the nozzle it wouldn’t affect the adjustment.

    Matty vee - Reply

    Exactly, there is no mention of nozzle touching bed, whilst actually adjusting probe. Also as I said before, sheet of printer paper is an excellent idea!

    Gary Walker -

    Hmmm… I have the spring steel sheet that magnetically attaches to the heated bed. Don’t you need to add that before doing the calibration adjustments??

    Mr Cookie - Reply

    Hi Mr Cookie, for now please do not use the spring steel sheet, follow the manual ;)

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Had problems adjusting the P.IN.D.A. It was tight in its holder even with the screw released so I had to twist it so that the threads on its body would lower it. Fortunately I left enough lead free at the P.IN.D.A. end so it was able to coil up as the P.IN.D.A screwed down. If this is a common problem either a reworking on the P.IN.D.A mount’s tolerances or a simpler change the photo of the preliminary positioning of the P.IN.D.A. in section 5 the E-Axis should show the P.IN.D.A. in a lower nominal position.

    Martin Wolfe - Reply

    I had a simliar issue. the P.I.N.D.A. mount is tight enough that even without the screw I can’t push it down without turning the actual sensor to screw it further in.

    Chris Schmitz -

    Same as above!

    Gary Walker -

    Yes - the PINDA is very hard to move up/down at this stage.

    Jascha Narveson -

    I’ll just add my voice to the choir of people complaining about how tight the PINDA is. It’s extremely frustrating.

    Jascha Narveson -

    I am amending my previous comment slightly as I had the extruder in the wrong position. However the P.IN.D.A mount / body interface needs to reworked. Perhaps a collet around the P.IN.D.A. so that it can slide up and down freely when the adjustment screw is loosened.

    Martin Wolfe - Reply

    Instead of this sentence which is vague as to what the last picture is: “A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the last picture. “ Label one of the pictures and call it out specifically” such as “A correct height of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor compared to the nozzle should be similar to the picture ‘Correct PINDA Height’ “

    greg mesh - Reply

    Hi Greg, “correct PINDA height” is not the same for all printers. This device has certain range of sensitivity and each unit is therefore slightly different. That is why you need to go through calibration process .

    Jakub Dolezal -

    From my tests it is best to move the nozzle so it almost touches the bed (you can slide thin paper [thinner than normal office paper] under it with some but small resistance), then PINDA sensor should be 11 layers of standard office printer paper (A4 for Laser printers) above the bed. I think that is a bit more accurate than using zip tie method. 10 or 12 layers would also work too. I do not have calipers or dial indicator holder with me to determine the height exactly at the moment.

    Witold Baryluk - Reply

    The zip tie is about 1.2mm thick. For me to pass calibration (next step), I need to lower the PINDA probe to about 0.65mm (by using 9 sheets of paper) in order for it to properly calibrate .. without doing that the extrusion nozzle was hitting the bed, so you need to get the probe low.

    Also at this point I was confused about the metal sheet … this is not used until after initial system checks (fans, hot-end, xyz axis, xyz calibration). It is put on right before the printing of first-layer calibration.

    Gerry P - Reply

    Same here, in the sense that with zip-tie height, the nozzle just crashes into the heatbed. I almost can’t believe I followed 9 sections of assembly instructions to the letter and to then just see the extruder going down endlessly. I now even dropped the PINDA probe to below the nozzle. Not a workable solution but I wanted to see if calibration in general would continue properly. Not sure what to do now. What is the minimal height above the nozzle the PINDA probe should be to not have it bump into the print?

    Christophe Lermytte -

    I had to lower the pinda beyond zip tie thickness as well. Nozzle crashed into the bed during calibration.

    Vince - Reply

    PINDA isn’t moving the slightest bit with completely los screw and holder.. No idea how to proceed here. Also how am I going to place the steel sheet back in as the next step (calibration of Z axis) asks me to to, while the nozzle is still touching the heated bed?

    Lennart - Reply

    I put in a screw driver to force open the clamp then it went down. still problems getting to engage at 1.2mm so per text above placed it slightly lower.

    vincent bartlett -

    Thank you Vincent, the screwdriver to open up the clamp just a tiny bit to let me move the sensor helped - mine wasn’t moving otherwise.

    Gregory Thomson -

    I too had a Pinda sensor that was too tight. Fed up with the clearances in the plastic, I used a hobby knife to cut the two small bridges on the back of the Pinda holder, placed a small screwdriver into the slot of the holder, then pressed the screwdriver handle to one side (I didn’t twist it) until I could move the Pinda sensor. That worked fine for me.

    Brad Needham -

    The pinda alignment crap has made the pre-flight stage !&&*. The pinder sensor has deep rings that grip the pinda mount hole tightly even without the damned screw! I don’t even need the screw because I can only move the sensor using the pliers. Absolute nightmare.

    Raphael Baker - Reply

    I have to say the PINDA on mine was very hard to move easily in the holder, more space is needed to make this part easier without stress on the extruded head while trying to make the PINDA move…

    Martin Wright - Reply

    Hi Martin, based on the feedback I already asked devs to update the parts and PIDNA holder is among them.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Wowww. This step really made me angry & frustrated. It would have been so much easier to do this when I initally put the PINDA in. The PINDA does not budge at all within its part very easily and takes more leverage than I can give it fully assembled without risking damage. I could have easily made this adjustment when I initially put the E-Axis together. Now I will have to take it apart just to align the PINDA. I feel you in that writing a build sheet is very tedious and all that, but this is a rookie mistake. Super frustrating considering I just finished the entire build.

    Zaki Ullah - Reply

    Moving the Pinda probe vertically was almost impossible : it is gripped statically by the holding plastic component, even with the screw loose. A flat bladed screw driver from above, into the slot at the end of the Pinda holding component, twisted slightly, allowed us to release it to easily be pushed down onto the zip tie.

    Jonathan Histed - Reply

    A panel nut (aka "jam nut") on the top and bottom of the PINDA mount would allow one to pull the PINDA sensor up or down as needed with much greater precision.

    It appears the PINDA sensor has M8x1.00 threads. If so, examples would be: Grainger 38DG64 Zinc Plated "Thin Nut", or Fastenal MJ2590000ZP0000 "M8-1.0 DIN 439B Class 04 Zinc Finish Steel Jam Nut " or Fastenal MJ2590000PF0000 "M8-1.0 DIN 439B Class 04 Plain Finish Steel Jam Nut". Ideally, these would be installed between Steps 23 and 24 of section 5.

    Mine is stuck, but I was blindly lucky and happen to have placed it very close to the specified position (actually, with slightly less gap than specified but this err’s on the side of safety). If it helps anyone, upon inspection, mine has a single layer“web” of plastic holding the gap in a fixed position (the “gap” is the opening that the clamping screw would pull closed to hold the PINDA in place). Cutting this web may make this much easier to adjust.

    MattP - Reply

    After turning on my printer for the first time the LCD switches between two screens saying “printer has not been calibrated yet. Please follow the manual, chapter” and the next screen says “First steps section, calibration flow”. Pressing the reset button only brings me back to this menu switching between the two screens. Turning the dial does nothing. I am stuck.

    Robert Morgan - Reply

    Hi Robert, please try upgrading the firmware: Upgrading the firmware v1.4 if it doesn't help, please contact our support at info@prusa3d.com

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I have endlessly adjusted the PINDA and the calibration still fails. I am beyond frustrated. I have double checked all connections just to be sure something was not lose or in the way, hotend and sensor etc. Uggggggg.

    Erik Kometti - Reply

    I found an easy way to adjust the PINDA. Loosen the screw as described and with a very small (jewellers) flat screw driver, place it in one of the notches close under the plastic holder and gently lever against the plastic, this moves it with extreme precision.

    Rod Lewin - Reply

    1- To fix my calibration I had to redo (9. Preflight check): In the section(P.I.N.D.A. adjustment (part 2)) while moving the extruder from left to right, I added a white sheet under the nozzle. Im my case, I don’t wanted the nozzle no be able to move my flat white sheet (new paper). While moving the extruder to the right, if the sheet moved, I adjusted the height of the right rail.

    2- Prusa tie rap height: 1.1mm.

    3- When I put the tie under the PINDA, my tie rap had to be able to move with a really little pressure.

    4- My bed had to be clean and heated at 60 degrees. (If I use windex with ammoniac, I have to put a really light level of glue provided by Prusa called Kores. (Sometime I have to Preheat the nozzle as 230 degrees with a bed of 85 degrees (PET), then I changed to PLA(215/60)) than way my bed will be optimal. For me, I never put the glue when the bed is not at 60 degrees, if not it failed or slide the first layer

    5- Last step is to redo the first layer test until the height is good

    Thanks. Steven.

    Steven Alex - Reply

    Whoa. This part is really important and repetitive. Pressing the zip tie flat, if the probe is one click higher than the zip tie, then the Z calibration during First Layer Calibration requires you to lower the head past -1mm to get a squished, but not see-through bead and if it’s one click below where the zip tie won’t fit underneath, then the nozzle snags the paper during calibration. I found myself having success in twisting the probe, since it has threads on the probe and the printed part, then holding the probe while I tightened it down. I hope I’m doing this right… this is my first time at this and I still can’t get the extruded filament to properly spread out and fill the gaps in-between the rows of filament.

    Zerg620 - Reply

    Why I usually live by the “a thumb’s width, give or take a whisker” approach myself - as this will be the first time I’ll be doing this, I’d appreciate some numbers for the recommended distances for both the nozzle and the probe at this step. Feeler gauges are cheap.

    I’ve seen the information somewhere on the forum (IIRC, the probe should be 0.5 mm higher than the nozzle, which is somewhat compatible to the numbers in the other comments), but putting these numbers, even just as a side remark, in the instructions, would be helpful.

    Markus Imhof - Reply

    Hello Markus, measuring this distance properly and accurately can be tricky, that is why we recommend using the zip tie as a reference - it is in the package and has just the right size.

    Martin Lexa -

    I had no gummy bears left! :-( For all of the hardwork, we need more than one pack. Please take note. :-D

    Ademola - Reply

  3. While we’re waiting for the video to be available, maybe add a step that says, in text, “1) plug in your printer 2) select language 3) run the calibration wizard”

    Zaz - Reply

    Hi Zaz, video is almost finished. Joe will take you through the new features and first run including calibration using Wizard.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    I’m not sure where to add this, as it came up during the self-test during the pre-flight test. I managed to not connect (or dis-connect) the Extruder moter inside the EINSY box. The self-test didn’t catch it, and I was confused when the extruder wouldn’t function when loading the filament.

    Additionally, I think the filament sensor was off by default. Might want to mention that or switch it on by default.

    Joey Gil - Reply

    You definitely have to add a note to attach the steel plate onto the heat bed before running the self test. Add this note in the manual AS WELL as in the firmware of the prusa to show up on the lcd! The z axis in the self test never worked correctly without the plate!

    Do Not Print - Reply

    Hi,

    the Wizard in the printer’s menu should guide you through the process including the information, when to apply the sheet.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    This is odd as it would seem that in the video Joe already has his steel sheet on the printer when he starts :(

    Eyal Peleg - Reply

    Assembly finished and turned it on. Language did not appear, but it said that the printer was not calibrated. I clicked the button, but the next screen was Printer Ready with various parameters displayed. I found factory reset in the manual whereupon it gave me the language choice then repeated as above. Only after fiddling with the factory reset screen and DELETE ALL DATA did it then go into “Would you like to do the setup process”. etc….

    Rory Carter - Reply

    You’re a life saver @rory_carter . Same issue here.

    Jason Cumiskey -

    And same here too. Factory reset: 1) power on; 2) press and hold rotary switch; 3) press and then release reset button; 4) select “all data”; 5) wait for data to be deleted. THEN it presents you with the language choice.

    Richard Chipperfield -

    Uh… The holes in my steel sheet are covered by PEI. They also don't line up with the pins.

    Oh, and the steel sheet text is upside down.

    I think Joe's using a different sheet

    Christian B. Nielsen - Reply

    This thing is amazing btw.

    It's currently running a Marvin print on my kitchen counter, and the sound of my gf watching TV 2 rooms away, with the door closed, is blocking what little sound the printer is making.

    Christian B. Nielsen -

    Hi Christian, the design has slightly changed, but anyway the rounded holes aren't meant for the pins. Those are used during the manufacturing process, that is why they are covered with the PEI sheet.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    Am I supposed to start the calibration with the nozzle still touching the heatbed?

    Kris Pippin - Reply

    Can we please have some guidance on how to place the new PEI sheets on the bed? The reference holes shown in the video no longer exist, and I don’t know how accurate I need to be. The magnets are very strong, and it’s easy to catch a finger between the steel and the bed!

    Arthur Tombs - Reply

    There’s actually a picture of the alignment in the printed handbook, so never mind. Would still be good to update the video, though.

    Arthur Tombs -

    Hi Arthur, yes the exact position is in the Handbook. Also at the end of the Chapter 7 in this assembly manual is written to wait with the steel sheet until the calibration process.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    YIKES! When the calibration asked me to add the spring steel sheet, I didn’t know the magnets would suck it right out of my hands, haha!

    Zerg620 - Reply

    If you click on the picture it just opens a browser with the picture and not the video link :)

    Russell McCampbell - Reply

    Well it is only meant to be an illustrational photo :)

    Tomáš -

    • Based on the examination of printers received back from the customers, we compiled a list of the most common problems causing poor print quality. Check them out and improve your 3D prints today!

    • Check the video here: https://youtu.be/Lsa-PXAXdKY

    • For other tips and tutorials go to: https://help.prusa3d.com/

    Add Comment

    • See our free 3D Printing Handbook - https://www.prusa3d.com/3dhandbookMK3

    • Read the chapters 3.2 Disclaimer and 3.3 Safety instructions

    • Read the chapter 6.3 Setup before printing.

    • Download and install the drivers - chapter 9 Printer drivers. Don't forget we have ready to print settings for Slic3r PE.

    • Calibrate the printer by following the chapter 6.3.1 Calibration flow and wizard. Please follow the steps exactly, otherwise you can permanently damage the print surface!

    Assuming the PEI sheet goes on before the self test????

    Scott - Reply

    Hi Scott follow the instructions in the Handbook, you will be asked to place the sheet on the heatbed.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    The self test should instruct you to add and remove the PEI sheet at the proper moments, and wait for confirmation before proceeding. At least that is what happened on NullZero’s stream.

    Zaz - Reply

    Hi Zaz, please proceed according to the Handbook and Wizard in the printer’s menu.

    Jakub Dolezal -

    It said ‘please watch our new user guide‘ the video starts with a self test and does not ensure the plate is attached. Add a question whether the plate is attached in the firmware for the self test as you did in another step later on where the plate should be detached. Also please change self test order to test all static and quick tests at the very beginning ( this could have saved me lots of time during wiring failures of the sensor )

    Do Not Print - Reply

    The link above, as of Sept 6, 2018, is for v3.03 of the handbook. I have a printed version of 3.04 that came with my kit. Can you provide the link for that/latest version?

    Rick - Reply

    I sugest that you add instructions about how to Pause/Resume Print, and how to insert new filament if you run out of it during Printing. I cannot find a word about it neither in your handbook, in your Knowledge base or on Youtube.

    Bengt Wannerheim - Reply

    Hello! These instructions are on the LCD. For example, to Pause/Resume Print, simply push the knob to access the menu, choose Pause/Resume Print and push the knob again. If you run out of filament, the printer itself will tell you what to do, so just read what appears on the LCD.

    Martin Lexa -

    • Read the chapter 7 Printing of 3D Printing Handbook.

    • Congratulations! You should be ready to print by now ;-)

    • You can start by printing some of our test objects bundled on the included SD card - you can check them out here prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models

    In the handbook section 6.3.10.1 it references “The Prusa logo from the supplied SD card…”, it would be helpful to know the filename so you don’t start an unintentional print, especially when your trying to fine tune the first layer.

    Rick - Reply

    • If you encounter any problems at all, don't forget you can always check out our knowledge base at http://help.prusa3d.com. We're adding new topics every day!

    Add Comment

  4. Add Comment

Finish Line

341 other people completed this guide.

Jakub Dolezal

Member since: 02/20/2017

107,410 Reputation

163 Guides authored

42 Comments

Thanks so much for the fantastic instructions, they are part of what make the experience top notch!

Steven Underwood - Reply

Hola:

genial la guía!!

Me gusto mucho montar la impresora.

Vi que siempre están superándose y estudiándolo todo a fondo. Seguramente estarán estudiando como mejorar la conducción del cableado. Es lo ultimo que se estudia (pero es que lo demás esta TAN BIEN), pero cuando llegas al cableado empiezas a ver que se aflojo en la terminación.

Felicitaciones y gracias por tanta calidad y esmero

Sebastián González Pacín

sebastián - Reply

Hola Sebastián,

Muchas gracias por tu comentario. Esperamos que disfrutes nuestro producto ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

All in all, I don’t think I would have been able to complete this build without such a great guide. The only thing i could even remotely think of as an improvement would be some other way to distinguish arrows, as some folks who are colorblind may not be able to tell certain colors apart.

Zachary Goyer - Reply

Hi Zachary, thank you for your feedback :) I've already adjusted Chapter 8 to be easier to read in case you can't distinguish between colours. Are there any other parts of the manual, which should be changed as well?

Jakub Dolezal -

Overall, a great guide. Thank you so much to the author for all the time and effort into making it. It must have been a good guide because my MK3 passed all self-tests, is calibrated, and is now printing out a happy little tree frog. All my gummy bears are also gone, so it is time for a beer. Cheers!

Brian Cramer - Reply

Hi Brian, thanks you and I’m glad the guide was helpful during your build. Enjoy the printer ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

As a retired engineer from silicon valley I have NEVER seen or been involved with such a GREAT Manual as with this Printer. Other companies should take your lead. Great Job to all involved.

A few extra parts were acceptable,upgrades and all.

The spare parts bag was a great idea. I am sure it helped many.

The Gummies was a great add as well. The timing was perfect in the beginning chapters, should be added to the rest of the chapters please!

I have only a couple Gummies left after two days working on this project.

Again thanks for caring enough to put this together for us.

and now the adventure begins ……

Thank You

Rich Johnson

Calif. USA

Rich Johnson - Reply

Hi Rich,

it is a great honor for the entire team to hear such words. We are always looking for your feedback to make the whole assembly experience even better ;) I can disclose there will be a new gummy bear per chapter guidance coming soon :D

Jakub Dolezal -

This must be one of the greatest pieces of documentation I’ve ever read. I’m really glad that part of the company’s revenue goes into writting these guides. Congratulations to the author.

Manolis Agkopian - Reply

Hi Manolis, thank you for the feedback. I'm really glad the manual was helpful to you :)

Jakub Dolezal -

I have a background that ranges from an electrician to programmer, to electronic engineer. I have build 4 3D printer kits now including a CR-10, Geeetech PI3 and a hybrid design of my own.

Without a doubt the Mk3 kit was the most enjoyable to build, considering buying another one just for the build. The instructions are extremely well written, comprehensive without being too complex or confusing but thoroughly covering everything.

Quality control was great with only minor issue but I do live on the other side of the world.

The printer worked straight up, no issues and with a print quality the exceeds my expectations. A BIG thank you to Joseph and his team, well done, products to be very proud of. Can’t wait for the MM kit for the Mk3..

:) Richard.

Richard - Reply

Hi Richard, thank you very much for the feedback. I'm glad the MK3 stands out and you enjoyed the assembly ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Thank you for the hard work put into making this great guide. Had alot of fun upgrading my mk2s. Is there a pdf version of the guide available? My kit lacked printed documentation. I’d like to make a hard copy, just in case :)

Vince - Reply

Hi Vince, thank you! Regarding the hardcopy, each chapter can be downloaded separately as PDF, find the “three dots” in the upper right corner above first step in each chapter.

Jakub Dolezal -

Great instructions, especially the online version!

The solely reason I needed it though was because some pictures with black printed parts have been to low in contrast to view their details in the printed manual. I suggest artificially enhancing contrast on some images with black or low in contrast parts. (E.g. prusa logo on frame, printed part version mark, and so on)

Do Not Print - Reply

Hi, thanks for the feedback, I will check the printed manual once more, last edition seemed bright enough.

Jakub Dolezal -

Great guide and the MK3 is so quiet! That in itself is worth the upgrade. The active community here is also tremendous so the guide is always improving. Thanks finally to the support team for quickly replacing the part I broke. The number one suggestion for a short-term improvement would be a better entry point for the extruder cable group into the Rambo cover.

Twerd - Reply

Hi Twerd, thanks for the feedback. Opening in the RAMBo is being redesigned to provide easier assembly.

Jakub Dolezal -

The self test passed and everything seems to be fine up to this point. Questions? What is the needle for?

I was having problems with the first layer being pulled off and becoming a blob around the nozzle. I put some glue on the bed and I am printing my first piece, 50nm tree frog.  Fantastic things that puts PRUSA above other kit suppliers, you do not skimp on the extras like a bag of spare parts, an entire bag of cable ties making it possible to make an error and not having to worry about cutting the tied up wire bundles loose and adding the wire you missed because there are plenty of extras. After screwing the cover closed on the electronics I was able to run a self test and proceed immediately to printing a first layer calibration and after about ten of those I realized what the glue was for. The first layer printed fine but the tree frog kept hopping into a blob around the nozzle. From Kit Box on Friday night to printing a tree frog the following night with very few problem. Box to Frog in a bit over 7 hrs

Ricky Burnett - Reply

Hi Ricky, the glue can be used while printing sticky materials like Flex. It will create a separation layer between the PEI surface and the printed object. The needle is used in case of the filament jam. Both parts are described in the 3D Printing Handbook. Enjoy your printer ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Successfully completed the Mk3 kit due in thanks to an extremely well written guide. Took a while but well worth the effort with the initial prints being first class. Thank you for the hard work in presenting your manual it is first class!!

David - Reply

Hi David, thank you for the kind feedback. Enjoy your printer ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

I completed the assembly and made my first test print today. The documentation, community feedback, spare parts, entire bag of tie wraps, and quality parts makes this succesful. Thank you for such an awesome MK3 kit!

Mark Tellier - Reply

Hi Mark, I'm glad it all worked out for you! Welcome to our community and don't forget to join our forum forum.prusa3d.com as well ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

I have never worked with a 3d printer before. I was worried I might be over my head. This manual Is fantastic! After my build I had only a few little troubles. (E axis step 14 )It was commented about the set screw wrench for the filament pulley not being good, and to use your own. This is true.

After a couple prints it went out of alignment. It printed horribly, made nasty clicking noises. take with the chat, and was told what it might be. and when I opened the cover and looked it was way out of alignment. After that it was great! I have no comparison to make any assessment of other 3d printers but this thing is absolutely a wonderful machine! The manual is beautiful! and the live help and videos!!! Wow! I just can’t tell you what a great experience this has been! Thank you Prusa Team!!! Well Done!!!

Les Kraut - Reply

Hi,

thanks for the positive feedback, I will forward this to our support team as well. Enjoy your printer!

Jakub Dolezal -

The Mk3 is assembled and the quality of the first two prints exceeded all my expectations. I’m awestruck. The forethought that went into the kit’s packaging, carefully written instructions, website packed with information and the supportive community - made my first 3D printer build experience very enjoyable. The competency of Joseph and his Prusa’s team is self evident for the reasons mentioned. Job well done. Thank you.

Joseph Basile

Joseph Basile - Reply

Hi Joseph,

there is a lot of hard work behind the whole product, but we are glad to see it brings joy and fun to those, who build and use Original Prusa i3 printers. Thank you for your feedback ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

I think i got a bad filament sensor in my kit.

james steele - Reply

Hi James, please check your wiring again, also there might be some dust on the sensor. Carefully clean it, ideally by compressed air or some soft fabric (make sure you won't scratch the sensor). If this doesn't help, contact our support at info@prusa3d.com for a replacement.

Jakub Dolezal -

what a pleasure it was to build the MK3 kit! the instructions are the best I have ever followed! printed the batman, the pursa symbol while tuning the first layer. finishing up the benchy off of the SD card right now and it looks great. I told my wife I want to build another one!

scott benge - Reply

Hi Scott, thanks for the kind words. I'm glad the assembly of the printer went smooth and you have enjoyed it. Having two printers is for sure better, or consider our MMU 2.0 upgrade, which will be released soon: https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgr... ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Some of the best and most detailed instructions I have seen! I was a bit worried stuffing all the cords in the box, but no issues calibrating and I am starting to print now. Very exciting!

JBFLA - Reply

On my first print, I got very concerned when all of a sudden I started seeing flashing lights from where the heatbed is connected and from inside the Rambo. At first I thought I had made some horrible connection error. Is it going to explode? LOL. After some digging, I found this is normal and no explosion will take place, just the heatbed warming up. Nice to know :)

Rick - Reply

Just a thank you for such a comptrhensive and easy to follow construction guide. The kit was superb too: i especially liked the labelling on the packs with the contents and pictures of each part with its number. Really helpful. The spares pack was very thoughtful. Thank you again.

Julian - Reply

Thank you for your feedback Julian! :)

Tomáš -

Thank you for a very detailed assembly manual. With it I have been successful and with no regrets. I will continue to be a customer of Prusa.

Mike Kuechler - Reply

Hi Mike, you are welcome. Enjoy the printer and share your prints on our forum ;)

Jakub Dolezal -

Everything went great. My first 3d printer i have assembled. The best thing about the manual is the comment section after each step. This build reminds me of when i used to build remote control cars. Keep up the good work.

chad423@live.com - Reply

Thank you very much, Chad! Now you can print some sick tuning to your remote control cars! :)

Martin Lexa -

Pinda adjustment is a bit tricky but all went well with this set.

Doug Kline - Reply

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