1. Prepare some room in your freezer for dismounted heatbed.
    • Prepare some room in your freezer for dismounted heatbed.

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  2. Leave the heatbed inside the freezer for at least 30 minutes.
    • Leave the heatbed inside the freezer for at least 30 minutes.

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    • Use something sharp to lift one corner of the PEI sheet from the heatbed.

    • Grab the lifted corner with your hand a completely remove the PEI sheet. Frozen glue will remain on the bed.

    • Be careful not to scratch the bed itself!

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    • Limonene (Lemonesol, D-limonene or something similar) Where to get Limonene.

    • Nitrile gloves

    • Paper towels

    • Keep in mind that Limonene can be extremely toxic for your pets, keep them out!

    Can be used other dissolvents? Aceton for example?

    Dmytro Kudran - Reply

    It is very hard to find Limonene in my country, any other things we can use to replace the Limonene ?

    Irawan Tri Kusumo - Reply

    I used acetone for this, worked perfectly. =)

    Felicity - Reply

    I feel stupid for using paint thinner when I had a can of 3M Adhesive Remover right next to it. 3M Adhesive Remover practically evaporated it from the bed. Why do they recommend a specialty (hard to find in the US) chemical when this is an off the shelf product?

    Ziethriel - Reply

    What 3M adhesive remover did the trick(sku or model number would be great)? I think they have many many types, and this was definitely a painful process with the limonene and acetone i purchased off the shelf at Home Depot in the USA..

    Douglas Shelfoon -

    I bought a bottle of “Pure Cold Pressed ORANGE OIL Concentrate - 32 oz (D-Limonene)” and it STINKS up the house. Be aware.

    NLTMW - Mike - Reply

    • Place the paper towels on the heatbed as shown in the picture. The whole glue surface has to be covered.

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    • Spill Limonene on the paper towels until they are totally saturated with it

    • Place the whole thing in a plastic bag to prevent Limonene evaporation

    Placing it in a plastic bag can affect the thermistor taped to the underside of the bed. I would suggest using clingfilm instead of a bag and being careful not to get limone on the underside of the bed…

    ChrisPetit - Reply

    • Let the Limonene do it's magic for at-least 40 minutes.

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    • Remove the bed from the plastic bag and place it on something disposable (old newspaper).

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    • Get a plastic scraper and start peeling the glue from one corner.

    • Paper towel partially soaked in the glue provides an easy way to manipulate the glue.

    This is not clear. You put limonene on the surface with the paper towel and then you remove it?

    Perplumblewintz Jonz - Reply

    After step 7's 40 minutes.

    Kevin Cave - Reply

    • Process can be repeated for the remaining glue.

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    • Clean the heatbed using water and paper towel.

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    • Clean the heatbed using IPA (or something similar that can clear out grease marks) and paper towel.

    • After doing this, make sure that no dust and fibres from paper remain on the heatbed surface!

    IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol. A good lint free cloth are coffee filters.

    Aaron Yourk - Reply

    • Peel out about 2 cm (1 inch) of glue protector from the SHORTER side of PEI sheet as shown in the picture

    • DO NOT try to peel out the sheet when it's glued, even in small area, it'll ruin the glue at that place!

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    • Bond the PEI sheet on the edge of the heatbed shown in the picture.

    • Make sure that the PEI sheet is placed as shown in the pictures (bottom edge of the sheet has to end at bevel of the heatbed and left side has to be aligned with edge of heatbed ) or covering whole printing area at least.

    • Rub the rest of the exposed glue with scraper covered in soft fabric as shown in the picture.

    In case anyone is wondering where to get this felt covered scraper (squeegee): you can get it e.g. in the d-c-fix Self-adhesive foil application kit, EAN-Code 4 007386 220837, cost of the kit (which also includes a cutter) is around 5 Euros. I got mine at OBI home improvement market.

    Oliver Scholy - Reply

    • Peel about one cm of glue protector and rub it with the scraper. Repeat several times, do not try to peel and glue large areas at once, it'll will highly complicate the process!

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    • Cut the extra PEI using sharp knife or razor blade

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    • Sparkling new print surface, just mount the heatbed back on the the printer and you can print!

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    • As the geometry of the printer might have slightly changed, you need to recalibrate the printer.

    • Please follow the chapter 6.3.1 Calibration flow and use the KIT version.

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Finish Line

28 other people completed this guide.

Josef Prusa

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Where can I find a new PEI sheet to place? Specifications? Generic ones on amazon/ebay OK?

PappaD - Reply

Ordered this from Prusa. It's actually 3M 468MP with 200MP adhesive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPWSY6A/ref... for instance if you're in the US.

Nicolas -

Fairly straight forward and well documented. May I suggest though to mention to keep thermistor connector from contact with D-Limonene, as mine has melted and I had to reterminate.


Vadim Ryazanov - Reply

Also try to avoid getting D-Limonene on the underside of the bed, as this will dissolve the tape that keeps the thermistor in place. This happened to me.

I tried to ignore the problem, which was fine as long as I was printing PLA. However, when I switched to PET and a bed temp of 85, prints started failing with a "BED PREHEAT ERROR" (see http://help.prusa3d.com/mk2-firmware/pre...).

To fix this, you will need some tape that can withstand high temperatures. I used some aluminum tape for fixing gutters which is supposed to withstand temps up to 110° C (similar to http://www.tesa.com/industry/tesa-50565....).

And by the way, before removing the tape to replace, I was concerned I would not place the thermistor in the right location, but the thermistor location is marked on the underside of the bed. Such smart design!

Nicolas -

Use 3M Adhesive Remover, it's a 3M adhesive after all. Just did it without removing the bed.

Ziethriel - Reply

Ziethriel, Which 3M adhesive remover did you use?

Vincent Tiger -

Which 3M adhesive remover did you use? General purpose? Specialty? White can? Black can? There's a few out there. Thanks for your help.

Borys - Reply

Sorry, it just says 3M Adhesive Remover Citrus Base. I have no idea beyond that, most of the stuff in our cabinet here is expired and 10 years old. It also says not for sale or use in California, which is where I live...

Ziethriel - Reply

I have had success using Goof Off (Pro Strength Remover) getting rid of the adhesive. Bought a little bottle for almost $5 here in the USA. It did take a while to clean up the glue but the markings were not affected in any way. Recommend this instead of spending a lot on limonene.

Max Nedorezov - Reply

Did you put it in the freezer for a 1/2 hour first?

David Buttero -

How did you apply it?

Ivan Zhang -

++ for GOOF off. Use that on Tevo Beds as well. It is the best + easy solvent for 3M adhesives. Available at the Orange Home Improvement Box store :)

mark perino -


Could you briefly describe how you changed the PEI without removing the bed?

Thank you.

Ronald Mourant - Reply

3M has replaced the product meanwhile. Search via google etc for "3M 50098". Its called 3M scotch-weld cleaner spray and is based on limonene just as prusa suggest. Also available in EU via this product name (eg amazon).

Jonas Frey - Reply

I used Goo Gone and Goof Off for adhesive removal. Both worked well and are readily available in the US.

Rodney Shumway - Reply

The PEI sheets available on Amazon appear to be somewhat thicker (about .8mm) than the original PEI sheet.

1.) Will this thicker sheet still allow a good Z axis calibration?

2.) Will a thicker sheet adversely affect the heatbed characteristics?

Dan Bobczynski - Reply

Update to my question about using thicker (.8mm) PEI sheets:

The Technical team kindly replied that the thicker sheet should not affect the performance of the bed, nor the calibration. One thing you would need to do is to reposition the probe and then to be on the safe side, recalibrate the bed with the XYZ and v2 calibration. Other than that you can also look towards the 3d printing community and see who has actually used the same item you are looking at so you can get some first hand comments on it.

You should be all set with the thicker sheet as long as you redo the probe height and the re-calibraitons.

Dan Bobczynski -

I just successfully did this with IPA, paper towels, and some coffee filters to finish it up. It was less of a big deal than i had thought.

Eric Moe - Reply

Quick question if I may? What are you referring to as IPA? IE what is IPA?

thanks in advance..

Malcolm Rodger - Reply

I belive IPA stands for Isopropyl alcohol

Legion -

Can I use some other solution, like alchool or acetone, if i do not have Limonene?

Federico Redaelli - Reply

I’ll second some of the other comments on Goof Off (Pro Strength Remover). I use this instead of Limonene, since I could pick it up at Home Depot and it only cost around $4 for a decent size bottle. I also picked up a .89 cent plastic putty scraper as well from the paint isle which worked great for removing the bulk of the glue. I used the same instructions as Limonene and soaked it using towels and basically repeated until all glue was gone. It is helpful towards the end just to soak a napkin and rub off some of the remaining glue.

Justin - Reply

Only yesterday, I assisted the local public library to remove and replace the PEI sheet. I’d read somewhere to use dry ice for cooling. It worked great! US$11.00 for the block, three minutes on the sheet and it popped off so easily! I had to move it around as the block was smaller than the bed, but even then, only 30-60 seconds in each new location. No bed removal.

The glue removal, with Goo-Gone, denatured alcohol and acetone took another hour, but the bed was absolutely clean when we were done.

The application of the replacement also went perfectly. One can see the heat traces through the adhesive clearly, ensuring a good bond and zero bubbles. The first print was just as expected.

Great instructions, thanks

fred - Reply

Hi all,

I bought a used MK2 with a damaged PEI sheet. Since I do not have a freezer, and I did not want to buy any chemicals, I took another approach. I used my bathroom heater to warm up the glue and just peeled off the PEI sheet (together with the glue). It took me maybe 10-15 minutes altogether and no chemicals. I just placed the tray in front of my fan heater (set on high) for a 1 minute, then I started to peel off one corner (4-5 cm), then I did a cut on the side of the sheet with a pair of scissors so I could remove in bands rather than the whole thing at once. I removed it in 4 bands and repeated the heating between each band, and there is no glue left on the tray! Now I am going to wipe with IPA and put the new one.

pierre - Reply

Hi all

I can second the “easy” solution mentioned by some comments:

I just heated the bed up to 60°C using the printers pre-heat option and started to peel it off at the corner using small pliers. After having peeled of a few centimeters I made a small cut at the edge using a sharp knife (making sure not to cut the heat bed). This allowed me to remove the PEI sheet in stripes of about 5cm width. Some small spots of glue were left on the heat bed, which I was able to remove by simply re-applying the just removed PEI-stripe and ripping it off again. Doing this a few times got rid of everything. After about 10 Minutes all of the PEI and glue was removed. I then cooled down the bed and cleaned it with Acetone. After that I applied the new PEI sheet and re-calibrated the printer.

The whole procedure took about 40 Minutes and everything needed are small pliers, a knife, some Acetone (IPA might work as well, as long as your heat bed is clean from glue) and the new PEI-Sheet.

I hope this helps a :-)

Cheers, Michael

Michael - Reply

Michael - it worked great! Whatever glue didn’t come off with using the removed slices, came off easily with some rubbing. Thanks!

Ziv -

I did this with Odorless Mineral Spirits (what I had on-hand and much easier to obtain than Limonene), worked quite well. Otherwise, followed the directions closely, and it went smoothly! Back up and printing in a couple of hours (including the wait times).

Seth Schwartzman - Reply

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