So aren’t these pads technically made out of foam and not felt. I double guessed myself for a minute looking for felt pads instead of these pads.
I recommend following what Kyle Campbell said and skipping this for now and doing steps 11-14 first. Follow the comments I have added in step 13 and then coming back to this step. It will make things a lot easier especially if your doing an MMU1.0 to MMU2.0 because otherwise your going to have a ton of wire in the way due to the longer wires. I had no worries about damaging the PTFE tubes because If your like me and pretty like everyone else then you are using a table to build your MMU, so just let the tubes hang off the edge of the table since they will naturally want to hang down to one side because of their own weight.
Paul Betz - 32 minutes ago
It’s not mentioned but I recommend leaving a tad bit of slack in the F.I.N.D.A. cable to the first zip tie as a stress relief. If you pull it tight then it’s likely to wear out the wire inside faster.
Just copy the pictures above, they all go to the left except the extruder motor which goes to the right. Remember the left motor labeled extruder is know called a pulley motor.
Thanks for this. I’m glad it waited another day to start this section or else I would have been struggling with those PTFE tubes like everyone else. It made installing them a breeze.
I didn’t a MK2.5 power cable with my MMU 2.0 kit but I did get a cable that looks like it with my MK2.5 upgrade kit. Are you including this cable with the MK2.5 kit instead of the MMU kit?
I’ve found it much easier to do it this way:
Put the cover on that is in step 14,
Tighten the screws just enough so the cover can move up and down a little bit,
Insert all of the ptfe tubes making sure they seat all the way in the holes,
Spin the tubes so they are curling up and hold them while keeping a little inward pressure on them so they don’t slip out.
While still holding the tubes tighten down the screws.
This was much easier than the way Prusa says to do it. It literally took me less than a few minutes doing it this way.
It also helps a lot if you have something to press the MMU against so it doesn’t move while your trying to press and hold all those slippery tubes in. I used the wall behind my table.
I can confirm that the screws do absolutely nothing to prevent the shafts from coming out. A couple of washers should be added to the kit for this step.
It’s easier to push the selector-finda all the way to the right and then screw threaded shaft in until it is about 7-8mm is sticky out the other side of the selector-finda. Then push the motor into the pulley body. It should put the selector-finda all the way to the left and the motor should be flush with the pulley body. This might help those with big fingers.
Also for those of you that have a coupler instead of a solid shaft and measured the 10mm distance instead of using the “pliers” method, 30mm for the first hobbed pulley is right against the end of the coupler.
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