Thanks so much for the fantastic instructions, they are part of what make the experience top notch!
I actually damaged my PEI surface on my mk2s build because of this recommendation to use a zip tie as a spacer/measuring tool. The same won't happen here since you do the initial calibration without the steel sheet installed (could be worse here if you did manage to crash the nozzle into the pcb though), but I would still suggest going by the 3rd image showing a front perspective of the relative gaps and just setting the position visually.
I got the injection molded holders and a printed spool holder as well. My printed holder was too tight and even with a careful attempt at installation, it immediately broke.
Same, but I had an extra from a previous step so I didn't have to dip into the spare bag.
This cable management is so clean and wonderful! I always struggled to get the mk2s as clean as I wanted it to be, for me this is a very nice improvement (as well as so many other “small" improvements in addition to the new features).
I had a similar problem. I had to move the zip tie closest to the extruder to avoid it hitting the frame and causing the self test to fail. It was exactly as the images (but the zip tie was trimmed flush on mine, which should be the best case for clearance). To fix it, I did as Jason suggested and moved the square part of the zip tie to the top of the bundle.
I drilled mine out and epoxied in the shaft. It was so tight I felt sure I would break the part before getting it in. I would rather have pressed it in, but it was just too tight!
There is a little bit of play in these brackets during tightening. I didn't realize it when I built my mk2s and it caused a slight misalignment. This time, I decided to use a machinist’ square here to ensure these were square with the frame. Worked great.
I assume there will be issues with vibration over time. I used loctite blue (removeable) for structural metal/metal connections.