I might get myself this upgrade kit, provided I can get my heat sink out. It’s not much more than the cost of the thermistor.
What a stupid 5-minute edit rule. I had to post a new comment because I was 30 seconds too late.
Yup! You got that right, Terry. Last night my print failed and I ended up with a golf ball of PLA mounted to my extruder. Broke the termistor cable in the process of removing that. After spending hours spent disassembling the E-axis and cleaning it up, I was unable to get the thermistor itself out. Even with a soldering iron on multiple places, the screw nor the thermistor would budge. Now I fear I’ll be replacing the whole hot end instead of just the thermistor.
I wish that blue cable was protected better somehow.
Same. A bit of sandpaper did the trick.
I had trouble with the upper-right bolt not catching. I used an M3x18 screw to do the ol’ “pull the nut in” trick and after that the M3x10 tightened perfectly.
Channel locks worked like a charm and were smooth so I didn’t feel like I was going to break anything.
This was a good reminder because I had already forgotten that the nuts were on the rods to begin with. Like you say, surely they should go on smoothly because of that reason. Therefore, any problems relate to the assembly and force should not be resorted to.
After reading through all the comments, I too had tightness on the nut on the motor side. I tried the “reverse turn until click” approach but still met resistance. For me the problem lay not in one side being higher than the other, but the rotation of the X-axis assembly. Hard to explain clearly, but I rotated it ever so slightly in the Y-axis direction of travel and then the nut slipped right into the threads and spun with no resistance. So just another suggestion for anyone having troubles is to grab the X-axis motor/assembly by the side and rotate it like you’re turning a dial. That might do the trick for you. It really shouldn’t take any force at all.
Thanks for the suggestion Ben, I used 60 coarse and spun it around a few times. After that the rods fit snugly but I was able to push them all the way in. Prior to that it was impossible!
This was an awesome suggestion, thanks so much!
Same here. I used a sharpie and marked the end of the rod. Every full push and pull results in 30 degrees of rotation for the ROD. The bearings don’t move. I think this is the same behavior you noticed.
My suspicion is that a slight misalignment of the two bearings is putting a spin on the rod. However, the same effect occurs on my single-bearing rod though to a lesser extent. Maybe it has something to do with the “grin” of the tracks that was pointed out in earlier step’s comments.