Having the part number printed next to the hole is a good idea! :)
So Prusa Team, the MMU2S.
I AM IMPRESSED!
I had a lot of issues when I got the MMU2 last year. The MMU2S fixed many of my issues and I figured out the rest (1. increase cooling moves to avoid stringing; 2. reduce ptfe friction).
Once I solved them everything just worked. The MMU2S is a workhorse. I’ve done prints where the filament changed almost 400 times. No jams, no muss, no fuss.
I was disappointed that the extruder filament sensor was disabled when I got the MMU2. I never had any issues with the sensor. It always worked for me (and you could always disable it if you had issues). The MK3S sensor is ingenious. It is filament agnostic (doesn’t care about color, transparency, etc), and always works.
I hated calibrating the length between the MMU and the extruder. I had a hard time getting a consistent result. Problem solved now that the extruder filament sensor is turned on.
The firmware keeps getting better and better. I love PrusaSlicer. I load gcode and it tells me new firmware is available!
Praise be to Prusa!
Agreed. All the directions should be in the same place. Not some here and some in the handbook. Not very maintainable.
I wanted to emphasize what Andrew Forsberg wrote and caution against forcing the tube into the hole. You can use latex/nitrile gloves to help you grip the tube, but don’t force the tube in the hole.
If you have trouble pushing in the tube, then the hole is too small. If you jam in the tube in this situation, the part will crush the tube, and cause the filament to bind. You want the friction in the tube to be as low as possible to prevent jams. Take a 5/32” bit and carefully clear out the hole to allow the tube.
I originally had a comment saying that you could use latex/nitrile gloves to help push the tube in if you have trouble. I deleted this comment because you shouldn’t do this.
Here is an Instructable that I’ve made to show how to make the buffer: https://www.instructables.com/id/Prusa-M...
I also made a YouTube video showing how easy it is to load: https://youtu.be/EJ182qbVD-w
I’ve been experimenting with different ways to make the improved buffer. I first tried chipboard (essentially cardboard), but it was not ideal. It frayed when putting it into the printed parts, and could bow causing filament not to flow freely between the plates.
I ended up using 0.050” 11” x 14” non-glare picture glazing sheets by Plaskolite ($6.68 at my local home depot per sheet). I used the chipboard to make a stencil and then cut the plastic sheets to the correct shape.
Total build costs around $40 from the cost of the sheets, and probably about 20 hours in construction of the final product, although it cost me a bit more time and money from learning/tinkering.
The improved buffer works great! I can now very easily pass filament from one side to the other with the help of a spare 12” ptfe tube. As an added bonus is the buffer is clear so I can see what is going on inside!
I’ll eventually add build instructions to my thingiverse page that has the basic design.
I did my best to measure the existing buffer plate since I couldn’t find design files.
Below is a link with an updated buffer plate that is symmetric in that it has a neck on both ends. With this design you can reach in and grab the filament as you feed it from either end. At that point you could attach it to something (stick, etc) to feed it through the buffer.
I cannot print it because the buffer plate is too big to fit on a Prusa printer (and shapeways wants $75 for their cheapest material per plate, so that’s not feasible either).
To try it myself, I’m going to have to make another design that has each plate cut in 4ths. However, this will require updated pieces to hold these new buffer plates, and probably more of the screws than I have between all of my Mk2/s Mk3/s MMU/2/s kit upgrades.
Not a project I’ll likely get done soon.
Challenge accepted. Where are the design files for the buffer plates? I could only find the printable pieces that go on the ends when I looked here: https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/others...
I’ve had a few days to play with the buffer now. It’s a neat idea, but trying to load filament is a nightmare. I look at picture 9 in the handbook and I laugh in frustration.
Filament spends its life on a spool and will naturally want to bend. I cannot get it from one side of the buffer to the other without curving out the side somewhere else. I can change the orientation of the spool before feeding, trying to take advantage of the bend. But it will just shoot out a different (and still wrong) spot in the buffer. There’s also only so much filament straightening I can do with my fingers.
The buffer would work if it narrowed on the inlet like it narrows at the outlet. If the buffer narrowed at the inlet, I could grab the filament as it enters the inlet ptfe tube and pass it through the buffer using something else I can control (a stick, a loose ptfe tube, etc). Once I get it to the other side, I can feed it into the outlet pfte tube.
Basically, if the buffer was symmetrical, I think we’d have a winner.
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